nemesiskrp

thanks for the good information. I get the main point now. So doing this swap is for sure a good way to get good power for a cheaper price? And is this whole conversion safe and reliable? I am not sure if you are using your car as a dd but I am going to use mine as one.
And last question: I have a b16 in my eg right now. Once I do this swap, will I be amazed on the power?

doo0T!doo0T!

The H2B kit is not a power mod, having an H2B conversion is not going to mean your H22a will be any more powerful, it will just allow you to make better use of the power.

Yeah it's safe and reliable, there's nothing really to fail, all the parts are solid billet aluminium or heavy duty steel. Its very well made.

As for your last question thats a great big yes, your B16a will feel like a sewing machine after some H2B H22a action, no comparision.

Remember I pulled out a perfectly good Integra Type R B18c to do this swap and I wouldn't have done it unless it was better. I have no regrets.

nemesiskrp

lol sewing machine. good stuff. so your going turbo? you going to be able to fit everything pretty clean with a intercooler and big turbo?

doo0T!doo0T!

Huh? Nope never mentioned anything about a turbo.

nemesiskrp

oh my bad. so why not go turbo then?

doo0T!doo0T!

Because the whole reason I went down this road was to make a fast NA car.
If I wanted to go turbo I would have used the old-skool obd1 P13 closed deck H22a and kept the H-series box.
The long gears would be fine with a turbo.
I also wanted to have reasonable fuel consumption as it's a daily driver.

That and I already have a turbo honda.

iliv2xlr8

Great work!!

JDM JEFFREY

iTrader: (1)

very nice

doo0T!doo0T!

There's been a bit of a gap of no work being done on the car, I got married!!, so didn't really have time/money left over to work on it.

It's almost finished, I've added an M-factory sway bar kit in the rear, put the Koni adjustables and skunk2 coils in, Billet LCA arms in the rear...

Also put a set of Stainless FGK headers on it which had to be modified for the H2B engine angle.

Its going on the dyno on the 4th of April just to see how well it's running and see what power makes it to the wheels through the b-series box. Hoping to see 130wkw + but we'll have to wait and see, it's obd2b so anything could happen on the day!

NW Classic Honda

Nice build so far.

doo0T!doo0T!

Heres a little update of the things that have happened over the last few months.

FGK Stainless headers, they need a beadblast to make them look good again.
They arn't as low to the ground as that usually my driveway has a hump in it.




M-factory sway bar kit & billet LCA's, everything fitted mint as, the LCA's even take OEM size honda bushes



I took out the shitty Pro-1 coil over sleeves and OEM shocks that were on the car and replaced then with Koni externally adjustable shocks and Skunk2 coils, 10kg front 8kg rear. I had the shocks fully rebuilt to brand new spec, even beadblasted the casings back to metal and re-painted them. Turned out mint.



ITR rear discs, well actually the whole trailling arm. The rims are OEM ITR fitment enkiesport Tarmac gen 1's rare as rockinghorse **** and I was stoked to find them. They were made specifically for the 96 spec itr and they are championship white.


As the bonnet is only held shut with four self tappers i was a bit nervous about it popping open while driving so I bought a set of NRG flush bonnet pin locks.
They were a bit of a mission to set up but they are now working perfectly, the trick is to get the pin perfectly perpendicular to the bonnet surface, they don't like angle. I just tweaked the bolt over so it leaned at the right angle to meet the closed bonnet and made sure the slot was aligned straight ahead. Worked out mint.





And lastly a digital read out oil pressure gauge, which may be a bit ****, it's reading 80-100psi over 3000rpm but this may be due to the balance shaft removal and increased oil pressure. Mounted it where the ciggy ligther sits, the bracket lines up perfectly with an existing bolt hole and it's out of the way while still visible.

doo0T!doo0T!

I ended up ditching the suede covering on the dash as it faded hardcore in the sun and went a sort of browny color. I ended up just coating the dash in black acrylic resin in the end, CTR style. Looks pretty good too I'm pretty happy with how it came out its better than I thought it would be.
I did the roof/pillar trims too which matches the black roof lining.







I gave the headers a polish up which looks miles better...


Next to the other toy :D


Finally got the coupe on the dyno on Saturday, got 141.3wkw (189.5whp) which I'm pretty happy with considering its basically stock and untuned with just IHE.
Plenty of room for improvement :D

Torque figure is uncorrected at the wheels in 4th gear, 500NM, (368ft/lb) was the only NA FWD on the day to be tested in 4th, 3rd was way too short and it just wheelspun as soon as it came on the vtec cam.



Heres the vids...

A clean run in 4th
YouTube - H22a Euro-R h2b EJ7 coupe on dyno 141.5wkw

A run they tried to do in 3rd and it just wheelspun, the gearing was too low.
YouTube - H22a-R H2B ej7 coupe on the dyno wheelspinning in 3rd

92nahatch

so whats goin on with that header that u had drawn up on cad? did it make good power in ur friends car?.... im interested and nice clean swap 1 more thing whats with the hole in the egr blockoff plate....

hondaZvic

thats 1 reason. the better gearing. also, to keep the straight geometry of the civic/integra drivetrain. (for QSD anyways) the transmission and axles are all kept in their OEM locations. allowing for straight axles, which was a major problem when doing just an H swap.

another benefit to using the B tranny over the H tranny is the shifter linkage of the B compared to the shift cables of the H.
B shifter can shift faster and harder.


by the way, keep up the good work!

doo0T!doo0T!

I never got around to getting it made because i found the FGK header instead.
No idea what sort of power the other car was making, it was in an H22a del-sol from memory which got crashed not long after he got it running.

Cheers I'm actually moving on now, the cars back up for sale, actually both of them are, and I've got another project planned. Looking for around the 8K mark + shipping.

MoizArif

Hi @doo0T!doo0T!
I have a question. The H22A (red top) engine you bought had a p5m block code (and is open deck), this engine was from a Euro-R accord ? What is the head code? was it a P13.

I just got a H22A block which has a p5m code code on it and was trying to figure out of what variants of H22A is this. as the way i recall open deck came only in H22A4's (i may be wrong too :p)