GoodUsername

The car:
1994 Honda Accord (CD5 Chassis)
4dr EX
Before we get too far, I am obsessed with this idea, with that said I do understand it would take tens of thousands of dollars to build and I am flat broke so this is more for sake of conversation and progress of the "building a Honda" dream a lot of us have. I see this build as original, time-less, imaginative and just plain bad ***. Its not too much,its not tacky its just right and I'm hoping to find someone who agrees.

RMR Conversion (Rear Mid-Engine /Rear Wheel Drive)
A donor vehicle is the most cost effective and complete means of obtaining all of the required parts. A 2007-2008 Acura TL Type-S is ideal for the build as it has a transversely mounted J35A8 engine mated to a 6spd manual transmission.
Any Third Generation (2004-2008 Acura TL Type-S) Engine and Transmission will do but 07-08 is ideal. I am considering using a J35 bottom end, J32 heads and high compression pistons as I have seen it done before.

The engine “Cradle” or Sub-Frame will be mated to underside of uni-body using the four mounting points and will be used to mount the engine/transmission/suspension. I've already measured the sub-frame's mounting points and marked them on the underside of the car, they line up quite nicely. This will also serve as the mounting point for the rear suspension(technically front suspension of TL). The TL uses an upper engine mount as well that mounts the engine to the strut tower area of the TL's uni-body. As the engine will not be in the original sheet metal of the TL, we will need a top mount. Alignment of this upper mount and the mounting of the sub-frame is crucial.
The Accord chassis will receive a full roll cage and this engine mount can be incorporated there. Structure for the upper control arm and upper shock mount to mount to will also be incorporated as part of the steel roll cage. The steering knuckles or uprights will need to be locked in position (unless were talkin all-wheel steer here haha) by fastening the tie rods to the sub-frame, this will also allow for rear toe adjustment. Which works out pretty well.

I would like to make around 400-500hp out of the J35A8 but the more I think about it and the more I see other built J series motors, the more I realize I would like to make closer to 700hp. It makes 286 horse power @ 6200 rpm and 256 lb-ft of torque @ 5000 rpm stock. Adding roughly 150 hp is a safe increase for a stock engine (roughly 50% I've heard) but that is only on stock parts. IF everything didn't cost money I'd like a pneumatic valvetrain, I would imagine that there could be power to be had in rhythms with such a system. On a more realistic note I would like to build the motor with either sodium filled titanium or stainless valves, and titanium or stainless springs and retainers. A 5angle grind on the cylinder as well. I would like to use twin garrett turbo chargers and some sort of stand alone engine management system such as the AEM though I've heard of problems.

I am unsure of the exact sizing of the turbos, however I understand I will need two smaller turbos than the ones used in the single setups to prevent excessive lag. I will likely go with garrett GT32R turbos. I would like to use an intercooler as part of the set up as well and being that the engine will be mid mounted I would like to make the intercooler roof mounted with a scoop (go ahead and steal my idea if you even have a mid engine car, I'll just know I thought of it myself!) I'm not too worried about typical front mounted air flow to the intercooler as intercoolers are only supplemental to a turbo setup for power gains and efficiency. This will however be one of the main body changes I would like to make, really making the look of the car. I believe the body wiring and the engine wiring remain separate but I am uncertain (it's been a little while since I've been in to cars). Most of the body wiring on the car is intact. The harness plug for the ecu on the factory engine harness has been cut but shouldn't be an issue.

Wheels in the rear will likely be a five spoke 18”x12” or something close. I am unsure of how the front hub to hub width of the TL lines up with the rear of the Accord's wheel arches so the width of the wheels may need to be reconsidered, wheel offset is obviously the issue here. Front wheels will likely be a five spoke 17”x8”. The front hubs of the Accord will remain a 4x100 bolt pattern and the rear a 5x100 making the need for custom made wheels (or two different sets). I already have 4-Piston Wilwood Forged Superlite calipers for the front that mount to the Accord's front knuckles, they were part of a 12” big brake kit I had installed. The rotors however are very rusted and slightly warped and are a custom rotor. So as far as front brakes, it could be just making what I have work as they are performance oriented or I could go the Brembo route. In either case I would like a large, multi-piston front brake setup and multi-piston rear as well.

Interior will have the A-pillar sections of the roll cage going through the front, dash mounted tweeter openings (something I've seen before and really liked), into the dash and through the firewall. Once past the firewall there should be further bracing, supporting the fuel cell and bracing the drivetrainless uni-body engine bay as well as front suspension. I already have Sparco Torino 2 Gray/Black racing seats to be mounted in the front. I would like sparco gas, brake and clutch pedals. A MOMO wheel and shift ball. A large part of the interior will be the front/rear firewall. I am thinking of the main hoop of the roll cage being the outline for the wall, a rounded rectangular sliding window in the center (Toyota 4-runner power rear hatch window would be sick), stainless steel sheeting on either side and some type of fire proofing/sound deadening in between. Gotta have the Dynamat Extreme on the doors floor and roof. I am a big fan of both Alpine and Kicker electronics. I'd like maybe a single 12” Kicker sub mounted in the mid firewall powered by an Alpine amp, an Alpine head unit and Alpine speakers powered by a nice Alpine 4-channel amp.

Body modifications will include the roof scoop, side scoops in rear doors for air flow to twin civic radiators, shaving of the factory antenna, likely shaving of the rear door handles, retrofitting of some sort of Honda Acura headlights (Possiby TLX or TL?), the retrofitting of a 95 Honda Civic hatchback rear hatch glass as the rear window of the Accord (The civic's rear window is sitting in place of the CD5's as we speak and boy is it meant, it almost looks del sol). I'd like to go handmade fiberglass widebody as well. A rear spoiler should be in order. There is some rust on the rockers and above the rear wheel arches. I'm a little undecided on what to do about it. There is part of me saying just leave it and let it add to the bad *** look of the car. Another thing I am unsure of is paint color, I really love the factory G77-M Sage Green Metallic.

Suspension should include aftermarket coil-over type dampers and springs. I have had Tein brand coil-overs on the car in the past (SuperStreets with Pillowball Uppers) and have used their springs on another vehicle. The only issue is going to be the fact that the car is going to be mid-engine, changing our weight balance front and rear. I think without having custom coil-overs made our answer lies in swapping front and rear springs.








Thanks Guys

TracerAcer2.2L

Let me say, I like your super-ambitious ideas.


But hear the voice of reason: for how much you would spend on converting this to a rear-engined car, why wouldn't you just get an NSX?

With the NSX obtained, you could then proceed to build your dream motor as described, in a chassis that's actually designed for a rear mounted motor, no modification necessary.

Now I understand the love for a certain chassis isn't always rational in the least, and if you are truly just head-over-heals for this Accord then there's no changing your mind. But, just something to think about.

GoodUsername

The pictures are from back in 2008, the headlights are a little tacky and the universal 4-bolt wheels...I get it, I've learned a lot. One thing being that you put your money in your motor, suspension and brakes first, I got two of them right, putting a Willwood 12" big brake kit and TEIN coil-overs. Man it could stop and take turns.

I like the idea of the NSX. Why not just build a J35, boost it and throw it in there. I would but the Accord chassis is more of a challenge and being a four door is just kinda cooler as far as converting the drive-train layout. Plus NSXs are hard to come by and aren't cheap. With that being said, the car I had, (the two pictures) is nothing but a rotting shell right now. No drive-train to speak of, no rear sub frame or suspension, no gas tank, doors are off it and the interior is gone minus the dash SO the car is not really much anymore. I like that it is my original first car but with the rocker and quarter panel rust, it might just go to the yard. Even still I will likely later just find another CD5 to build when the time comes.

TracerAcer2.2L

Someone did throw a boosted J35 in an NSX for Pikes Peak

The NSX is MUCH cheaper than what you are proposing, and not at all hard to come by.

IMHO, there is no appeal to a rear mounted engine in a four door...

The NSX just makes so much sense for what you are wanting and would be cheaper to boot. The only Accord I can imagine being converted in the way you want is that Accord with the NSX style tail lights, the coupe never the sedan. That might have slight potential if you had huge funds and know-how.