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My b20 swap

 
Old 10-03-2017, 05:44 PM
  #1  
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Default My b20 swap

I figured id say what i did to get the motor up and running in a couple of days. Ive run into a few small problems and maybe itll help someone in their swap. The car is a 98 ek coupe, the motor is a 98 b20 with a gsr trans that i got from someone who failed to get it running in their car.

Its held in by polyurethane mounts on the left and right but the rear mount didnt fit properly so i had to put in the standard b series mount. (The solid mounts shake the **** out of the car especially with the gsr trans) when i dropped it in i had a hard time getting the mounts to fit. Keep the mounts seperate before dropping in the motor and then bolt them on after otherwise itll be hard to get the mounts to line up.

When putting the axles in i had a hard time getting the passenger side axle into the transmission all the way. It took me and a friend 20 minutes and alot of elbow grease to push it in all the way. Oh and when taking the original axles out you can just detach the top bolts on the upper control arms and detach the coilover from the lower contol arm that way you wont have to seperate and destroy the ball joint. Turn the wheel all the way to the right when pulling the drivers axle and all the way to the left to remove the passenger side.

Hooking up the transmission i was able to cut and flare a piece of the old clutch line to bridge frome the line on the trans to the line on the fire wall. Stock integra shift linkages work without a problem ijust used a tight fitting nut and bolt to connect the linkage to the trans.

The guy i got the swap from had it in a 00' ek and the wiring harness and ecu he gave me wouldnt work (96-98 are obd2a and 99-00 are abd2b) i stole connectors off of the harness to extend the wires on a few of the plugs on mine. I bought an auto p75 obd2a ecu so i could get the car running. The motor had a obd2b distributor on it and i had to make a jumper harness from the obd2a plug to the obd2b dist and i had to run a wire out from the inside of the distributor where a obd2a distributor picks up its tach signal and connect it to the tach signal wire left over on the obd2a side of the jumper harness. Youll need to bypass the crank fluctuation sensor at the ecu because the b20 doesnt have one. I broke the throttle position sensor when installing the motor but the one from the d16 swapped right over. I messed up when connecting the map sensor and the tps and the car idled high, ran rich, and when you gave it any throttle at all it would bog out and die. I switched the plugs and it ran better but still had a fluctuating idle from a vacuum leak.

The vacuum leak came from the throttle body gasket. In order to fit the b20 under the hood you need to put an ls intake manifold on it and one of the things that can cause a fluctuating idle on a pre 96 manifold is the fitv. The 96 and up manifolds didnt have a fitv. The leak came from the throttle body gasket because the manifold was a 95 and the previous owner put a 96 gasket on it allowing a massive vacuum leak from the bottom of the throttle body. I found the leak by spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold. The previous owner never got it running properly because he didnt catch the gasket problem.

I filled the motor with mobile 1 oil and put genuine honda manual transmission fluid in the trans. The exhaust connected withe the crv downpipe and a coupling from autozone.

So far it runs great and the gsr trans with the torquey b20 helps it pick up quick. Hope this helps anyone stuck in a jam i was in. Suggestions for future mods to the motor are welcome. Im thinking about a small turbo running low psi.
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Old 12-30-2018, 05:58 PM
  #2  
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Default Re: My b20 swap

Originally Posted by Jonzy View Post
I figured id say what i did to get the motor up and running in a couple of days. Ive run into a few small problems and maybe itll help someone in their swap. The car is a 98 ek coupe, the motor is a 98 b20 with a gsr trans that i got from someone who failed to get it running in their car.

Its held in by polyurethane mounts on the left and right but the rear mount didnt fit properly so i had to put in the standard b series mount. (The solid mounts shake the **** out of the car especially with the gsr trans) when i dropped it in i had a hard time getting the mounts to fit. Keep the mounts seperate before dropping in the motor and then bolt them on after otherwise itll be hard to get the mounts to line up.

When putting the axles in i had a hard time getting the passenger side axle into the transmission all the way. It took me and a friend 20 minutes and alot of elbow grease to push it in all the way. Oh and when taking the original axles out you can just detach the top bolts on the upper control arms and detach the coilover from the lower contol arm that way you wont have to seperate and destroy the ball joint. Turn the wheel all the way to the right when pulling the drivers axle and all the way to the left to remove the passenger side.

Hooking up the transmission i was able to cut and flare a piece of the old clutch line to bridge frome the line on the trans to the line on the fire wall. Stock integra shift linkages work without a problem ijust used a tight fitting nut and bolt to connect the linkage to the trans.

The guy i got the swap from had it in a 00' ek and the wiring harness and ecu he gave me wouldnt work (96-98 are obd2a and 99-00 are abd2b) i stole connectors off of the harness to extend the wires on a few of the plugs on mine. I bought an auto p75 obd2a ecu so i could get the car running. The motor had a obd2b distributor on it and i had to make a jumper harness from the obd2a plug to the obd2b dist and i had to run a wire out from the inside of the distributor where a obd2a distributor picks up its tach signal and connect it to the tach signal wire left over on the obd2a side of the jumper harness. Youll need to bypass the crank fluctuation sensor at the ecu because the b20 doesnt have one. I broke the throttle position sensor when installing the motor but the one from the d16 swapped right over. I messed up when connecting the map sensor and the tps and the car idled high, ran rich, and when you gave it any throttle at all it would bog out and die. I switched the plugs and it ran better but still had a fluctuating idle from a vacuum leak.

The vacuum leak came from the throttle body gasket. In order to fit the b20 under the hood you need to put an ls intake manifold on it and one of the things that can cause a fluctuating idle on a pre 96 manifold is the fitv. The 96 and up manifolds didnt have a fitv. The leak came from the throttle body gasket because the manifold was a 95 and the previous owner put a 96 gasket on it allowing a massive vacuum leak from the bottom of the throttle body. I found the leak by spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold. The previous owner never got it running properly because he didnt catch the gasket problem.

I filled the motor with mobile 1 oil and put genuine honda manual transmission fluid in the trans. The exhaust connected withe the crv downpipe and a coupling from autozone.

So far it runs great and the gsr trans with the torquey b20 helps it pick up quick. Hope this helps anyone stuck in a jam i was in. Suggestions for future mods to the motor are welcome. Im thinking about a small turbo running low psi.
Glad to hear it running! Iím having an idling issue myself! Iíve got the USDM Ď99 B20Z in a Ď99 Civic EX! I swapped out my manifold for an LS one that came with a TB w/o a FITV. I did notice however, my B20Z had one on its throttle body! I can hear the hissing by the map sensor and I have switched that out and after reading this post; Iím gonna attack the TB gasket and clean the IACV! I have no engine codes but I may swap the MAP and TPS sensors because they maybe switched but I doubt it because of the way the harness runs in general but you never know!

did you have an issue with the fan switch not coming on? I know my fan works but it wonít kick in and my thermostat is new! Iím running OBD2A P75 using conversion harness!

Any info you may know would be great!
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Old 12-30-2018, 06:17 PM
  #3  
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Default Re: My b20 swap

Originally Posted by Johnny Bee View Post


Glad to hear it running! Iím having an idling issue myself! Iíve got the USDM Ď99 B20Z in a Ď99 Civic EX! I swapped out my manifold for an LS one that came with a TB w/o a FITV. I did notice however, my B20Z had one on its throttle body! I can hear the hissing by the map sensor and I have switched that out and after reading this post; Iím gonna attack the TB gasket and clean the IACV! I have no engine codes but I may swap the MAP and TPS sensors because they maybe switched
As long as you use the proper throttle body for the intake manifold you shouldn't have any problems just spray it with carb cleaner and see if it stalls out. You can also check for bad idle valves/vaccum leaks by taking the intake off and blocking the holes you will see on the side of the inside of the throttle body while it's running. The small holes around the perimeter is where the different idle valves draw air from. If you block off one and it idles perfect you found your problem. You can just cover them with your finger.

I've been running mine for over a year now I've upgraded the ecu to s300 using a wideband o2 for the input for the ecu and I have about 40,000 miles on the motor since I put it in at 199,000 and it is now at 239,000. Runs mint. Gotta love honda. Let me know if you run into any issues and I'll try to give you advice
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:17 AM
  #4  
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Default Re: My b20 swap

Iíve been a long time Honda fan myself brother! My first swap I did was back in 2005-6 time! I had a 92 HB DX and swapped in a JDM B18C. I miss that car! But Iím gonna check my throttle body area because Iím positive I have an idling issue because of this loud vacuum leak! Gonna go thru my engine harness and make sure my plugs are all correct by checking to wiring diagrams I found on HT!

Thanks for the reply and Iíll keep ya updated on the outcome! I know itís something simple! I canít wait to get to driving my car again!!
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Old 01-06-2019, 09:49 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: My b20 swap

Got her purring! TB gasket was put on wrong! Lol sometimes I do dumb stuff lol but no more vacuum leak! Fan kicks in and she drives pretty smooth for being out of commission of a while! Gotta tune the idle and thatís bout it!
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