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- Hybrid / Engine Swaps (https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/)

- - LSVTEC HELP (https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/lsvtec-help-3167201/)

I just installed a stock b16 head on my stock b18b block. I used a brand new type r oil pump, water pump ect, and ALL new gaskets EVERYWHERE. I got it running and ran my oil line and everything is working besides vtec. Side note: vtec works sometimes but sometimes it just won't pop randomly and I have to reset my computer or turn my car off and back on. Usually when it doesn't work it will throw a code 22. But I have PLENTY of oil pressure and my wiring is hooked up just fine. The computer I have is a p28 chipped. No tune just 2 step. I'm stuck so if anyone can help this would be greatly appreciated.

Why do you people think P28s are magic or something? WTF do you need a 2 step for and why is it not at least basemapped for your setup?

There is a DIY on LS/V that tell you how to build it reliably. Why are you people having such problems doing it?

Umm.. Why must you come off in such a way? I listed that had a p28 for a reference to people who may know what my problem is. The computer came chipped and with 2 step when I bought my car. A p28 is not magic.. A p28 is a computer with vtec.. Now I don't want to be be rude at all but i actually followed that reliable ls vtec guide very closely, along with friends of mine who knew what they were doing as well. It's been together for 2 days I haven't had a chance to get a tune on it. All I need is suggestions as to what to do in a situation like this.

Why are you driving the car without a basemap or tune?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stickjdm (Post 49100242)

A stock P28 (which is pretty much what you have) is used to run a SINGLE cam engine with VTEC. NOT a hybridized DOUBLE cammed engine with VTEC. How do you not realize that?

Followed it very closely? Everyone that follows it "very closely" instead of to the letter, seems to always show up here saying they have problems with their franken motor. Why people have such a hard time following directions as laid out in the DIY is beyond me. It is there to be followed to have a reliable LS/V engine. When you don't follow it, as WRITTEN, then you don't have one. Not hard to understand. Get the damn thing chipped for your setup or get a tune. Don't come back asking why your car doesn't run as it should until you fix all known deficiencies.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bambam (Post 22558107)

I put this guide together because I'm tired of seeing the SAME threads over and over of simple questions that can be answered in one simple post like this one. This thread is designed to be an end-all, tell-all type thread. Please keep in mind though, that this is still just a general guide. Lsvtec/b20vtec engines are not honda manufactured engines. With that said, there are hundreds of combinations you can build.
Also, please be aware that this guide is assembled on an intermediate level, and anyone reading this guide can perform all of the steps outlined.

Let's begin. Now, there are a few NECESSARY things to do/parts to buy when building a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec:

-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New LS (90-01) B18a/b (for 81mm) or B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (same)
-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM)
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM Dohc Vtec Bseries (B16/GSR/ITR) 22T water pump
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-New OEM P72 oil pump (96+ GSR/LS/B20/ITR/B16 - all the same)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (necessary for stock ECU/injectors)
-In addition, you should replace all remaining gaskets and filters

Note- "same" means that the listed parts use the same part #'s from HONDA/ACURA.

Additionally:
-Shotpeen LS rods
-Hone big end of rods when using ARP rod bolts (if necessary)
-Hone cylinders (if necessary)
-Balance the entire rotating assembly

Do the above, and your motor will reward you with reliability.

ECU/Tuning. This will be different for everyone.
Now let's think, what ECU will be best for this setup? The answer is NONE. Most ecu's will run this motor, but run it pretty darn shitty. How could you even expect it to run right? This isn't a stock honda motor! You WILL need some way to tune if you want this thing to last threw the day, week, month, year.
If you're looking for an ECU, just get one that you can chip, and has vtec capability. That's it. FYI, generally, GSR ecu's run this setup like poop so steer away from them unless it's already chipped and ready to be tuned.
Also, don't just buy some "skunk2" or "Mugen" chip. First of all, it's highly doubtful it's an authentic program to begin with. Second of all, you're taking someone else's word for what program is on that chip to run your new motor. You MUST be retarded.
Every LSVTEC/B20vtec motor is different and must be tuned INDIVIDUALLY!
So, get an ecu. Have it chipped. Install a wideband O2 sensor. Hook everything up together. Run your software of choice, and tune. You will need to tune for 14.5-15.1 at idle, and then gradually increase that to 13:1 at WOT in vtec. This is just a general rule...but tends to be pretty close to a RULE in tuning.

Chipping, base map, and Tune are all separate things, you will get more help if you are more specific.

It doesn't have either. Just a 2 step for egomaniacs and street racers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stickjdm (Post 49100242)

Now I don't want to be be rude at all but i actually followed that reliable ls vtec guide very closely, along with friends of mine who knew what they were doing as well.

then ask ur friends why your vtec dont work if they know what there doing

Lol c'mon bro.. No need to get snippy. I followed the post word for word besides me
Not having. A spare 400 dollars for hondata.. Sorry for annoying you guys with one more ls vtec post. You have to start somewhere right? And I'm not an idiot obviously no computer including mine is made for my motor.. I don't a need anyone to think for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdmjunkieXL (Post 49100335)

then ask ur friends why your vtec dont work if they know what there doing

Your just being an asshole.. OBVIOUSLY I came here for a reason.

Then you didn't follow it and your friends don't know what they're doing either. You may not need anyone to think for you but you do obviously need someone to read for you if you cannot follow directions as written. If you didn't have the means to do it right you should have waited until you could, or not done it at all.

And let's not use that "start somewhere"nonsense as an excuse. Were you expecting some kind of workaround for your workaround?

So what did you do? Get a Blackworks kit and just slap a B16 head on it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by grumblemarc (Post 49100362)

Then you didn't follow it and your friends don't know what they're doing either. YOu may not need anyone to think for you but you do obviously need someone to read for you. If you didn't have the means to do it right you should have waited until you could, or not done it at all.

And let's not use that "start somewhere"nonsense as an excuse.

Alright...

"I followed it to the letter." Did you do any of this stuff?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bambam (Post 22558107)

-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New LS (90-01) B18a/b (for 81mm) or B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (same)
-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM)
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (necessary for stock ECU/injectors)

Hmmm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stickjdm (Post 49100350)

Lol c'mon bro.. No need to get snippy. I followed the post word for word besides me
Not having. A spare 400 dollars for hondata.. Sorry for annoying you guys with one more ls vtec post. You have to start somewhere right? And I'm not an idiot obviously no computer including mine is made for my motor.. I don't a need anyone to think for me.

Dude www.phearable.net $38 for a chip specific to your setup. ONLY $38 to keep your setup from blowing up.

Your v tec oil pressure switch is probably bad if it isworking on and off lol

I have an lsvtec they're really tricky.
To put it simply they weren't made as an engine buy Honda for a reason there for you should honestly pay the extra money to have someone who's a certified mechanic and has done these builds before do it. Otherwise you can mess up your stuff and be out more money than it would have costed to pay for it done correctly.

How do you know your oil pressure is good? Are you burning any oil? Even one leaky valve seal can make your engine drink a good amount of oil, then when it gets low your oil pressure will drop and vtec wont work and you spin bearings.

When bolting up the oil pickup tube, did you use a gasket? If not this could also cause low oil pressure.

If your oil pressure is indeed in spec then maybe your vtec solenoid is gunked up.