CTRwannaB

hey a couple questions?

is the crank on the b20 and b18a/b the same stroke ratio..etc. the same if so
wouldn't it be easy to just bore a 18a/b to 84-86mm instead of buying a b20 and then boring it up.

reason is that i have a 94b18b and want to bore it out to atleast 85mm. but with all this b20 talk i kinda wanted a b20 but i figured since i was boring it out ne ways might as well use my block to bore it out and save me a buck or two instead of buying a b20.

also since when u bore it out u have to strip it of everything and my buddy has 2 b18a/b lying around. that i could proably get for 50-100dollars.

sooooo....the question is ....should i just bore out a b18a/b instead of buying a b20 and borein that out?

thanks sorry so long.

sorry i meant resleeving not boreing


[Modified by CTRwannaB, 8:51 PM 6/4/2002]

hybridmoose

Essiantially a b20 is nothing more than a resleeved b18 block. So sincce you already have a b18 block I say you should resleeve it. Checkyour area I think its about 1000 or so for resleeve.

Finest

Check the GE groupbuy.

BROOD

Yes use one of those B18B blocks. But you can't just bore it to that diameter, you will have to have it sleeved. For example Golden Eagle Manuf. sleeves, they will cost you about $1000 by the time you factor in the shipping and bore/hone to your pistons. Simply boring it out that large on the factory sleeves will not be desirable. I recommend the Golden Eagle sleeves. Expect to wait a few weeks for the return of the block, the wait is well worth it.

I would not go beyond 85mm bore size. Beyond 85mm will sacrafice more sealing than I would want. Plus you would not bennifit much from the difference between the 85mm to 86mm bores on a street engine (or strip engine for the most part).

When you send it to Golden Eagle; strip off the main bearing caps, oil pan studs, etc. Leave the colant gallery plugs installed in the block for the pressure testing phase.

SLPR.......


[Modified by SLPR, 10:54 AM 6/4/2002]

CTRwannaB

would it be possable to resleeve a b16 to 85-84 mm???

wut would i get a 1.7 -1.8? i would use the b16 crank tho.

i just like the 1.74 ratio thats all thanks

BROOD

I'm pretty sure that you can, you could verify that by talking to Ted or Vince at Golden Eagle.


[Modified by SLPR, 1:19 PM 6/4/2002]

MoBlack

Resleeving a B16 to 84mm will only give you roughly 1.7l if you are still using the b16 crank.

MoBlack

Rembrant Q. Einstein

Any B-series block can be re-sleeved out as much as any other, so you are better off going with a cheaper block (B18a/b). 86mm is the absolute maximum, and then you can not go forced induction. 85mm is pushing it, and 84mm is safe for boost.
84mm bore with 77.4mm stroke B16 crank= 1715.7 cc.
85mm bore with B16 crank= 1756.8 cc.
86mm bore with B16 crank= 1798.4cc.
If you have to have a better rod/stroke ratio, the B18a/b, B18c, and B20b/z blocks have taller deck height, which would allow an even longer rod (custom length) with the same stroke, but numerically higher rod/stroke ratios can, in extreme racing tune, be biased to narrow, less usable power bands.

For all practical purposes, optimizing the rod/stroke ratio is the last thing you do. You are better off going with a longer stroke crankshaft the fully exploit the bigger bore, more displacement providing more power and torque at (pretty much) all rpms.

Jaker

MikeK built a B20 with the B17 crank, in an effort to achieve a more desireable rod/stroke ratio, and he ended up with an incredibly flat torque curve, and some excellent power numbers for the displacement and the limited nature of the build.

Look here for the thread on that motor:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=116473