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k-serie swap help!!!

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Old 12-27-2006, 10:48 PM
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Default k-serie swap help!!!

hey there i havent donw much research but my friend was telling me that i could get the k24 swap in my car for about 6gs... he said i needed a k24 tsx block with the K20a head K20a tranny,ecu,axle,spindle,wiring kit and the motor mounts he said that all these n labor would be about 6gs and i was wondern is this possible? if it is posible how hard is it to drop this in a integra?? thankx if any1 could help me??
Old 12-28-2006, 06:38 AM
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Default Re: k-serie swap help!!! (JayDeeMDc2)

6gs would be hard.. more like 6-8K > here's a list I made

K swap parts list:

• K series motor and tranny attached
For the purpose of this list, we are going to assume that the motor and transmission are attached and in working condition and are 100% complete with clutch, slave cylinder, starter, alternator, coils, shifter clips and all necessary sensors working in good condition


• K series engine harness
- This is the harness that will plug in around your motor and will get routed inside the car cabin to be connected with the ECU and the pnp harness so that your stock cluster will work. Typically a rsx type s engine harness is used from 2002-2004. A 2002-2005 Civic Si Ep3 harness and base RSX 2002-2004 can also be used but you loose function of the reverse solenoid that means that the computer will let you shift into reverse instead of 6th gear. That is very hard to do in my opinion because very rarely I can imagine someone slamming 6th gear unless they are going 140mph and need to get to that next gear that fast. You can also make your own 12V switch to activate that solenoid if you have a harness that doesn’t have it. A JDM k20a type r harness can also be used and it is a little bit shorter and with the JDM harness you might also need to modify your pnp harness just a little bit

• K series charging harness
-This harness is shorter that your main engine harness and it connects the battery with the fuse box and the starter and the alternator. It also connects with the main harness. Typically this harness needs to be extended in order to look right. Another possible solution is combining 2 charging harnesses in order to hide the wires. Pretty much any K series engine harness can be modified to work.

• motor mounts
-hasport, hybrid racing, avid and other upcoming brands

• PNP harness
-hybrid racing , hasport and other brands
The pnp harness is the harness that gets installed inside the cabin and connects the ECU with the cluster and the engine harness. It acts like a bridge between the old and new Honda electronic technology.

• axles in appropriate stage
-The right axle for your swap depends on what you have. There are axles that are ready to be mounted and usually are offered by the same place that sells mounts. You can also modify your current axles by combining rsx type s axles, ep3 axles, base rsx axles, or in some cases just use base rsx axles…. It all depends. For your specific application search or just buy the axles recommended by the mount company. Typically axles for X mounts will not work for Y mounts etc… There are different levels. If you are planning to burn tires all day long, do not get stage 1… lol. The driveshaftshop.com makes most of the axles for the mounts companies and would be glad to sell you an axles with 12 month warranty etc if you need one.

• clutch line
-That is Braided stainless steel line used to connect the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It can be custom made like hybrid racing’s or Suja’s 1 or you can even take a stock clutch line and bend it or make your own etc… Of course if you bend your own, most likely it will look like crap.

• Radiator
Most of the times, 99% the radiator will need to be moved to the other side. Refer to karcepts.com on information how to do this. You can use the stock radiator or buy an aftermarket one like the Hybrid Racing radiator w/ FAL FAN , or other ebay radiators for your car, or KOYO , or FLUIDYNE, etc.. Some people even use the rsx type s radiator etc… Some aluminum radiators have a custom inlet and outlet to simplify the routing of the lines like the hybrid racing one or the one from holeshot racing.

• Radiator Hoses
Depending on your car and application certain combos will work. The upper rsx one and the lower bseries integra seem to work in most cases when modified

•heater hoses
you can pretty much go to your local autoparts store and buy these hoses. 2 lines are needed. One of them is slightly bigger that the other one.

• Karcepts Radiator Relocation bracket.
-Used to transfer your stock radiator from the passenger side to the driver side. That is a usefull parts because you don’t want the radiator to be touching the radiator support beam

• B/D series coolant temp sensor and fan switch
-Temp sensor controls the coolant gauge on your chosen chassis and the Fan switch is used to turn on and off the fan. There are alternate ways of doing this like wiring the temp sensor directly into the ecu and letting the ecu turn the fan on and off. The position of the temp sensor also varies. Most people have the temp sensor in the upper radiator hose and some people put the temp senso on the head at the same place with the evap sensor used to be. A Billet Hose Insert is used w/ temp sensor and fan switch. These are Used to insert both the fan switch and the temp sensor into the cooling system.

• fuel rail
-That is Used to distribute fuel to the fuel injectors. Golden eagle, BDL, AEM are some brands. A stock rail can be also modified to work but be careful on welding on metal parts that have fuel on them..lol

• Fuel Pressure regulator
-That is used to create a constant pressure in the fuel rail to allow for adequate fuel flow. Aeromotive and AEM are some brands. There are countless regulators that will work. Be sure that they can support 40-60 psi.

• Fuel Line Kit
-Used to adapt the fuel system of the RSX to the fuel system of your chosen chassis. There are kits available like the hybrid racing one or you can make your own by searching on k20a.org

• Shifter box
-A stock rsx type s one is most of the time the best choice if you can get one new or used. Aftermarket boxes exist like the revo, buddy club etc…

•Karcepts Shifter mounting kit

-Used to adapt the shifter mechanisms of the RSX into your chosen chassis without having to cut a hole in your firewall.

• RSX Shifter Cables
-Used to select gears and connect the tranny with the shifter

• Shifter linkage Clips/ Cotter pins
-Used to connect the shifter cables to the shifter box and transmission.

• intake
-There are a few choices on intakes as well. AEM/DC sports has one especially for K swaps, Karcepts etc.. you can always use whatever intake fits, as long as there is place for air temp sensor.

• Sports Header
-A header is used to connect the head of the motor with the exhaust. The basic swap header is the AEM/DC sports 4-2-1 header. From then on, there are 10-15 different kinds of header ranging from $600-$1300, from stainless steel to mild steel, 4-1, 4-2-1, etc…

• Throttle cable
-Connects the gas pedal to the throttle body. It depends on the TB you are using. A 96 DX will work with a type r TB and a rsx type s/ep3 one will work with the rsx type s/ep3 TB. You can also modify eg, dc2 cables to work etc…

• EP3 pulley/bracket
-Primarily used when removing the power steering and A/C but can also be used with power steering and no a/c

• AC and PS line Kit
-Used to maintain both the AC and PS systems. It can be custom made or from hybrid racing.

• ECU
If you can have a stock rsx type s motor, the stock ECU will not work unless you have advanced knowledge how to incorporate a rsx immobilizer wiring into an older chassis. A JDM type r ECU will start the car easier because the JDM immobilizer is easier to bypass. Hondata K pro or AEM EMS can be used as well. Most people with K swaps are using Hondata K pro which is pretty much the standard. Without hondata, we would not had been able early on, to get these motors to work right. With complete engine control and dataloging, you can always be aware of what is going on with your motor. Read the Hondata Kpro primer on k20a.org or go to http://www.hondata.com for more info

• Exhaust
Typically a stock kseries swap performs better with large 3 inch exhaust, However, that can be loud for whever you live so so some research on what is acceptable.

• Misc
Radiator fluid, tranny fluid, wire with soldiering iron or some basic things you are going to need along with misc hoses, etc…

Old 12-28-2006, 07:17 AM
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nice write-up nikos..
Old 12-28-2006, 07:23 AM
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Default Re: (EATIN UP UR BSERIES)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EATIN UP UR BSERIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write-up nikos..</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, trying to give all options out there.
Old 12-28-2006, 12:40 PM
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Default Re: k-serie swap help!!! (Nikos)

Originally Posted by Nikos
6gs would be hard.. more like 6-8K &gt; here's a list I made

K swap parts list:

• K series motor and tranny attached
For the purpose of this list, we are going to assume that the motor and transmission are attached and in working condition and are 100% complete with clutch, slave cylinder, starter, alternator, coils, shifter clips and all necessary sensors working in good condition


• K series engine harness
- This is the harness that will plug in around your motor and will get routed inside the car cabin to be connected with the ECU and the pnp harness so that your stock cluster will work. Typically a rsx type s engine harness is used from 2002-2004. A 2002-2005 Civic Si Ep3 harness and base RSX 2002-2004 can also be used but you loose function of the reverse solenoid that means that the computer will let you shift into reverse instead of 6th gear. That is very hard to do in my opinion because very rarely I can imagine someone slamming 6th gear unless they are going 140mph and need to get to that next gear that fast. You can also make your own 12V switch to activate that solenoid if you have a harness that doesn’t have it. A JDM k20a type r harness can also be used and it is a little bit shorter and with the JDM harness you might also need to modify your pnp harness just a little bit

• K series charging harness
-This harness is shorter that your main engine harness and it connects the battery with the fuse box and the starter and the alternator. It also connects with the main harness. Typically this harness needs to be extended in order to look right. Another possible solution is combining 2 charging harnesses in order to hide the wires. Pretty much any K series engine harness can be modified to work.

• motor mounts
-hasport, hybrid racing, avid and other upcoming brands

• PNP harness
-hybrid racing , hasport and other brands
The pnp harness is the harness that gets installed inside the cabin and connects the ECU with the cluster and the engine harness. It acts like a bridge between the old and new Honda electronic technology.

• axles in appropriate stage
-The right axle for your swap depends on what you have. There are axles that are ready to be mounted and usually are offered by the same place that sells mounts. You can also modify your current axles by combining rsx type s axles, ep3 axles, base rsx axles, or in some cases just use base rsx axles…. It all depends. For your specific application search or just buy the axles recommended by the mount company. Typically axles for X mounts will not work for Y mounts etc… There are different levels. If you are planning to burn tires all day long, do not get stage 1… lol. The driveshaftshop.com makes most of the axles for the mounts companies and would be glad to sell you an axles with 12 month warranty etc if you need one.

• clutch line
-That is Braided stainless steel line used to connect the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It can be custom made like hybrid racing’s or Suja’s 1 or you can even take a stock clutch line and bend it or make your own etc… Of course if you bend your own, most likely it will look like crap.

• Radiator
Most of the times, 99% the radiator will need to be moved to the other side. Refer to karcepts.com on information how to do this. You can use the stock radiator or buy an aftermarket one like the Hybrid Racing radiator w/ FAL FAN , or other ebay radiators for your car, or KOYO , or FLUIDYNE, etc.. Some people even use the rsx type s radiator etc… Some aluminum radiators have a custom inlet and outlet to simplify the routing of the lines like the hybrid racing one or the one from holeshot racing.

• Radiator Hoses
Depending on your car and application certain combos will work. The upper rsx one and the lower bseries integra seem to work in most cases when modified

•heater hoses
you can pretty much go to your local autoparts store and buy these hoses. 2 lines are needed. One of them is slightly bigger that the other one.

• Karcepts Radiator Relocation bracket.
-Used to transfer your stock radiator from the passenger side to the driver side. That is a usefull parts because you don’t want the radiator to be touching the radiator support beam

• B/D series coolant temp sensor and fan switch
-Temp sensor controls the coolant gauge on your chosen chassis and the Fan switch is used to turn on and off the fan. There are alternate ways of doing this like wiring the temp sensor directly into the ecu and letting the ecu turn the fan on and off. The position of the temp sensor also varies. Most people have the temp sensor in the upper radiator hose and some people put the temp senso on the head at the same place with the evap sensor used to be. A Billet Hose Insert is used w/ temp sensor and fan switch. These are Used to insert both the fan switch and the temp sensor into the cooling system.

• fuel rail
-That is Used to distribute fuel to the fuel injectors. Golden eagle, BDL, AEM are some brands. A stock rail can be also modified to work but be careful on welding on metal parts that have fuel on them..lol

• Fuel Pressure regulator
-That is used to create a constant pressure in the fuel rail to allow for adequate fuel flow. Aeromotive and AEM are some brands. There are countless regulators that will work. Be sure that they can support 40-60 psi.

• Fuel Line Kit
-Used to adapt the fuel system of the RSX to the fuel system of your chosen chassis. There are kits available like the hybrid racing one or you can make your own by searching on k20a.org

• Shifter box
-A stock rsx type s one is most of the time the best choice if you can get one new or used. Aftermarket boxes exist like the revo, buddy club etc…

•Karcepts Shifter mounting kit

-Used to adapt the shifter mechanisms of the RSX into your chosen chassis without having to cut a hole in your firewall.

• RSX Shifter Cables
-Used to select gears and connect the tranny with the shifter

• Shifter linkage Clips/ Cotter pins
-Used to connect the shifter cables to the shifter box and transmission.

• intake
-There are a few choices on intakes as well. AEM/DC sports has one especially for K swaps, Karcepts etc.. you can always use whatever intake fits, as long as there is place for air temp sensor.

• Sports Header
-A header is used to connect the head of the motor with the exhaust. The basic swap header is the AEM/DC sports 4-2-1 header. From then on, there are 10-15 different kinds of header ranging from $600-$1300, from stainless steel to mild steel, 4-1, 4-2-1, etc…

• Throttle cable
-Connects the gas pedal to the throttle body. It depends on the TB you are using. A 96 DX will work with a type r TB and a rsx type s/ep3 one will work with the rsx type s/ep3 TB. You can also modify eg, dc2 cables to work etc…

• EP3 pulley/bracket
-Primarily used when removing the power steering and A/C but can also be used with power steering and no a/c

• AC and PS line Kit
-Used to maintain both the AC and PS systems. It can be custom made or from hybrid racing.

• ECU
If you can have a stock rsx type s motor, the stock ECU will not work unless you have advanced knowledge how to incorporate a rsx immobilizer wiring into an older chassis. A JDM type r ECU will start the car easier because the JDM immobilizer is easier to bypass. Hondata K pro or AEM EMS can be used as well. Most people with K swaps are using Hondata K pro which is pretty much the standard. Without hondata, we would not had been able early on, to get these motors to work right. With complete engine control and dataloging, you can always be aware of what is going on with your motor. Read the Hondata Kpro primer on k20a.org or go to http://www.hondata.com for more info

• Exhaust
Typically a stock kseries swap performs better with large 3 inch exhaust, However, that can be loud for whever you live so so some research on what is acceptable.

• Misc
Radiator fluid, tranny fluid, wire with soldiering iron or some basic things you are going to need along with misc hoses, etc…
Thanks there i have a DC2 i didnt know it was this complicated. my friend was juss telln me its simple but luckly i came on here and ask before i started getting the parts hahahh but thank that was alot of imforamtion that i didnt know.

oh yea also if i was to do it on my DC2 would i need to use the k20/si hubs?? also is this swap realiable for DD?
Old 12-28-2006, 02:29 PM
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dc2/eh same things apply..of course it reliable for dd...its a brand new motor..
Old 12-28-2006, 02:47 PM
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Default Re: (EATIN UP UR BSERIES)

i dunt need the rsx suspension set up for this do i?
Old 12-28-2006, 03:12 PM
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VERY Nikos I LIKE!@
Old 12-28-2006, 03:21 PM
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Default Re: (JayDeeMDc2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JayDeeMDc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dunt need the rsx suspension set up for this do i?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no..
Old 12-28-2006, 03:45 PM
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Default Re: k-serie swap help!!! (Nikos)

Very nice write up Nikos!
Old 01-07-2007, 01:32 AM
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What's involved with disabling the immobilizer? It seems that most ppl go with the Kpro....is it because of the tuning capabilities and the easy solution to bypassing the immobilizer? I'm assuming it must be pretty difficult since most ppl spend the money and go w/ the kpro.
Old 01-08-2007, 10:09 AM
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Default Re: (GR_DC2)

without kpro (which enables the immobolizer) or a jdm k20a ecu, you wont be able to start the car because of the immobolizer in the usdm ecu

as far as the OP ?, its not a complicated swap, but it is harder then a regular b or d swap
Old 01-08-2007, 05:02 PM
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just kinda skimmed through the list but not sure if it's covered. I thought the new TSX k24's have DBW? I heard something about using an accord TB to change over to a mechanical cable setup?
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