halfabrotha

I swapped a JDM B18C from HMO into my EK coupe. The car was an EX so I used that wiring harness with the B18 ECU.

The swap was completed but I did get one error code. Code 14 which is the EAV or IAC code. I swapped out the IAC from the D16 to see if it was a bad vavle but still got that code. I then cleaned both vavles out with carb cleaner, still same error. To see if I got a bad ECU I plugged in the D16 ECU and got code 14 plus two others which where for crank angle and vtec oil pressure.

**I thought ( )** that I read that there were a couple of sensors on the USDM engines that are not on the JDM engines and therefor are not messured with the JDM ECU, so with this in mind I dismissed these codes since I am useing the JDM ECU. Since I got the same code from both ECUs I figured that the JDM ECU was good.

I then thought that maybe there was a problem with the wiring for that sensors. So I rewired it and I am still getting code 14.

At this point I am stightly frustraded. So at this point my thinking is that I have a bad valve or maybe a different problem like a vacuum line problem. Since this was my first swap I thought that maybe I had missed something and thought that I better have a professional look at it. I got recommended to a shop that does swaps and had them put it on there diagonstic computers.

They came back to me today saying that the engine is missing the crank angle sensor, VTEC oil pressure switch, and that I may need a new idle air control valve. The IAC is not a big deal because I figure that was the case.

I DO have a problem with the crank angle sensor and VTEC oil pressure. I know that on some of the Honda/Acura engines that the crank sensor has to be rewired because it (the sensor) is in the distributor. Is this the case with the B18C? And what is with the VTEC oil pressure switch?

If anyone has ANY info for me that would be GREAT. These jokers at the shop are tellin me that if they do the work and buy parts I'm looking at around $900 worth of work .

Thanks for the help!

halfabrotha

Update -

So I just talked to a friend of a friend of mine who has done this swap. He said that since I was using the EX harness that the only mod that I had to make to the wiring was add/modify the butterfly wiring. I remember reading about this but I thought I would post to see if anyone could confirm this and provide more info.

ASHY-ELBOW

lots of info from katmans thread check it out this should help
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=558245

poison

What year Civic? 96-98 or 99-00? And what year B18C?

The only thing you will need to add to the harness (provided you have an OBD2 B18C) is the secondary butterflies which is located underneath the intake manifold (black box).

The IACV is also a two wire IACV which the EX is as well, KS, and VTEC are also already embedded into the engine harness.

The main thing I can only think of the problem (provided you are using an OBD2 P72 with no jumper harness, OBD2 B18C), is you could possibly have a connector switched around.

I recently had a customer who did a JDM D15B swap into his EG, and he had the IACV problem with it always open. I verified wires, and the wires were good, then I verified *color* wires, and he had the EVAP Purge Solenoid connected to his IACV, and visa versa, so I switched the connectors and all worked well.

Simple mistakes cause a lot of stress, and you end up kicking yourself in the *** after it`s fixed.

keep us posted.

halfabrotha

jdm 98 b18c into usdm 97 Civic EX. Yes I am using the b18c ecu with the ex harness. I did not add the secondary butterflies to the harness so I wonder if that would that give me the code 14 that I was seeing when I jumped the ecu?

I checked the wire colors for the IACV to make sure I had the right plug and it was cool. One mistake I did make was replacing the IACV wires when I tested them wrong with the mulitmeter . The new wires do work however so I guess I mostly just wasted my time -- no harm done.

So I guess what I am going to do today is call the shop I had the car taken to and have it towed back to my house so I can work on the secondary butterflies wiring.

Thanks for the info P

poison

Well, you should have a two wire IACV plug. One of the wires being Yel/Blk going to A11 pinout, and the other (forgot the wire color) going to the A12 pinout.

Verify those wires using a digital multimeter, and making sure they go to that correct pinout.

If those wires go to those pinouts, and wires show good, then the IACV is most likely bad, or you have the wrong connector going to the IACV.

halfabrotha

[QUOTE=poison]Well, you should have a two wire IACV plug. One of the wires being Yel/Blk going to A11 pinout, and the other (forgot the wire color) going to the A12 pinoutQUOTE]

I am using the 97 ex harness which is a 2 wire plug colors green/black. The green went to A12 and the black is a ground.
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...2.jpg

The one thing I did not do was wire the IAB in A26. Would that cause code 14?

poison

I`ll have to double check OBD2 pinouts. I can't remember for sure what the IACV pinout is, but I believe it's A12.

And the IAB doesn't throw any codes at all, and would not cause the IACV to throw the code, unless you have the IACV plug plugged into the IAB box.

halfabrotha

Looks like I did some of the wiring wrong. The guy that is looking at it said that it should be finished tonight or tomorrow! Kind of sucks that I could not finish the swap myself but at this point I will just be glad to get my car back.

Thanks for the help!

poison

Glad to see things coming together.

halfabrotha

Got my car back tonight!!!!! It feels so good to be back in my car. And the swap was TOTALLY worth every $$ and every bit of sweat that I put into it! I've fallen in love with my car again.

Now I gots to figure out what's next !