KidRuthless

Would a J series swap be worth the swap, I know they put up big numbers but will the weight cause bad traction along with unbalanced chassis issues?

GhostAccord

What chassis are we talking here and what is your planned use for the chassis? Do you have a realistic budget? Who is going to be doing the swap, fabrication and welding?

please give us more to go on..............

hondamark35

no offense, but are you really asking if adding weight to the front end of a FWD car would negatively effect traction? physics. it will increase traction (not sure the weight difference, so couldn't say how much traction would increase) and also increase understeer (again, not sure to what degree...)

chassis can be balanced after the swap to suit the application and setup, that is if you want to get that serious about chassis set up.

flatblack-h22

They are about 50-100 lb heavy over a k24 depending on j30/32/35/37

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...train_weights/

KidRuthless

Chassis= Ek
Motor= J32 or J30

I was just stating what I read about the traction, but I have around 5k I would love to do a K24, but their still pretty expensive.

I know the j series motor is a pretty well engineered motor I just want to know if there will be problems with swap It'll be a weekend warrior/DD car as well

93egSLEEPER

Your hood wont fit. Problem #1. Every J swapped car I've seen has the motor sticking out of the hood....not my cup of tea

KidRuthless

Not my cup of tea either, but iv heard they've made mounts so that problem wont occur.

93ericSi

Read it in an issue of honda tuning. Dual height adjustable mounts - awesome. If you want the hood untouched you have to have ground clearance. Not sure if you a slammed type person or not though.

-Eric

93egSLEEPER

It will take a lift spring to make that thing fit under the hood and not pound oil pan on road ****.

KidRuthless

Dont mind the DR20's haha Im trying to get rid of these

KidRuthless

Yea Im not slammed and dont look foward to it , but I was worried about the oil pan clearance and from reading it would be like 4 inches

93ericSi

Look up adjustable j series mounts and hondatuning. Should lead you toward the article they had about the two setups. Yes ground clearance is a little more than normal but how bad *** would it be because no one would expect a lifted civic to haul *** with 6cyl

-Eric

KidRuthless

Do the fellow members of Honda Tech think the J swap is worth the time and money?

93ericSi

Personally have been wanting to do it for about a year now but a lot of things have gotten in the way.

If you got the drive for it then anything is really worth it. All personal preference when it comes down to it

-Eric

hondamark35

they are really sweet engines. smooth and torquey without being whezy up high.

however, if my power goals were anything near that of a typical J-series I would much rather do an H/F-series with a turbo. Just for the sake of packaging and hood clearance. Sure, the J-swap gets loads of cool points and it's getting easier to do with mounting and wiring solutions but there are too many other compromises (for my tastes) just to get it in the bay.

KidRuthless

That is true, but I've been doing alot of research and with the new hasport mounts you can put them on the highest setting (for oil pan clearance) and just by cutting a small amount of skeleton under the hood you will be able to close your hood and have that oem look.

And I thought about boosting my b series, but the more you build the less reliable your motor can be and the longevity is taken away.

hondamark35

sure, to a degree. however with good quality parts, good build practices and attention to detail you can have great reliability and durability. the H/F-series has even more margin than a B-series because of the larger capacity and overall size.

lsvautocross

The torque alone that the J motors put out with being bone stock makes it worth it. It would be ultimately more reliable than swapping a b,k,or h and boosting it to even get it close to the hp and torque values that the stock J's put out. Heck with swapping heads you can reach up to 300hp and comparable ft/lbs of torque. Like hondamark35 said you can simply run higher spring rates to fix the issue of the extra weight. Also there is only around 100lbs difference between a k24 and a J-series depending on 30-32-35-or 37 but keep in mind how much weight do you think that whole turbo system weighs bolted up to the k24 and people have no issues there.

KidRuthless

That makes complete sense, but why are people complaining about the weight distribution and other problems such as under-steer (autox racing) if they k24 and J32a2 are similar in weight? Sorry for all the questions haha All the research I do on J swaps takes me back to 2009-2011 and alot of K people talk the J down.

flatblack-h22

J are about 100 pounds heavier than a k24

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...train_weights/

smilindave

search for project no name (eg sedan) by pink batman. I found this build very informative for how much work it takes to j-swap a honda. good luck, it looks like a blast to drive.
Regards
Dave

lsvautocross

A turbo charged k24 would have close to the same weight as a j32a2. For racing purposes in my opinion i would go with the j32a2 because of less stress on the stock motor than having to turbo the k24 to get up to similar power and putting added stress on the k24. Understeer can be fixed with staggered wheel setups stiffer rear sway bar and and different spring rates.

My build im doing on my 91 hatch is going to have the 03TLTypeS j32a2 04 TL 6Speed LSD factory equipped. Cable to hydro converstion. DA spindles to allow use of the bigger brakes on the integra. Complete poly bushing kit Sperical trailing arm bushings, rear subframe brace with a minimum of a 21mm sway bar. but the big thing to help change from under steer to over steer is by going with a 15x10 rim with 275/35/15 in the front with 15x10 rim in the rear with a 245/40/15. and testing with different spring rates.

shovelhead_chop

just a thought, too new to Hondas, but reading on either having engine through hood, or oil pan hitting because of clearance issues, can it be dry sumped, with remote oil tank?

I dont know particulars of the engine, but first thing that popped in my mind.

hondamark35

It probably could be converted to a dry sump system, though the cost is probably prohibitive. also, as far as I'm aware there is no off the shelf system so a lot of skill and effort would be required to do it right.

I think that's why 10 minutes with a sawzall is the go-to solution.