lazyvietboi

what happaned? was it not maintained right? i always hear people say the motor gives up at ~15-20k miles. what was it that went wrong?

lazy bum shaughn

Lazy people like lazy bum shaughn and lazyvietboi doing lazy half a-- jobs done. The block was never made to rev high anyway.

If you want a Frank motor, make sure the person doing it is experienced with it, and has a good reputation. I'd just go for a GSR swap though, or save for a Type R.

Quik Chris

Headgasket went bad, then I said screw it. It didn't like 13:1 CR.

ExospeedAMcrx

hehe at 13:1 compression.. im sure most honda blocks are already going through past the normal amt of stress that it was designed for.

VTECVillain

Using the wrong timing belt and revving too much too soon - A friend of mine did this on an LSVTEC: 92 B18A block with first gen B16A head. The car ran good the first three days it was in until the timing belt snapped and the valves got bent

lazyvietboi

hmmm.... thats not good at all.

so if its built right with new sleeves,piston,rods,block grindle, stuff like that every thing would be good? and how would you know which timing belt is right for it?

VTECVillain

He should've used a B18C1 GSR timing belt but he used the LS one.

f22a

heres how i understand frankensteining blocks/heads: if it was that good, Honda would have made it like that from the factory, and chances are they know more about their engines than we do.

h22 civ

Yeah...and honda would put H22's in civics...cuz they are smarter...more power and tq why not right.

irev210

they did
its called a gsr

SuperMan19

LSvtec and b20vtec are not like gsr. they run differently. I agree that Honda would've made it if it were reliable. The best is to just stroke your motor.

SiBirdie

I heard stroking a motor is even worst then doing a lsvtec or crvtec. Those frank motor need to be built right and not be beaten to death. That mean NO damn oh **** i can rev up to 9000-10000rpm. Drive it normal, race when you have to lay a smack down on someone. Dont just push it for no apparent reason. Do normal oil etc maintance. I have a built b20vtec in an 00 si. So far it been good cause I dont smote it to death. I have 21,000 miles and its almost a year that I had the motor put in.

1RMDave

I'm so sick of the "well if is so great then honda would have done it" arguement. It is like saying turbos suck... i mean if they were so good then honda would have done it right?? Come on!! They make their cars and motors with the average consumer in mind. They didn't make a factory version of the lsvtec because it wouldn't last the 200,000 miles a b16 would. Well i'll take the extra performance and redo my motor every 100,000 miles. Because i'm not the average consumer, I'm a car enthusiast.

Nameless RB26

I feel the same.

SiBirdie

ditto that

Quik Chris

I hate the argument too. If you feel that way, then you better not change anything on your car at all-- Honda didn't mean for it to be like that

I've been hearing that the new problem found w/ CR-VTEC is that the aluminum surround to the iron sleeves in the B20s cracks with high CR's. I've seen it happen in a car w/ 13:1 forged pistons / stock sleeves.

The way I see it now is that it's an excellent budget builder engine, but once you get into all the small things, you would have made more net hp w/ a turbo kit for the same price. I loved my LS/VTEC though, it was a fun motor. Shame I had to put 101 Octane in it all the time and spend $3/gal.

I think if you have the option, you might as well sleeve a VTEC block to 84mm. Better R/S ratio

NirSpec1

I am soooo sick of hearing everyone talk down about ls vtec and cr vtec motors, and what honda should of done... First of all a LS or CR vtec motor will run and last along time if properly built, and maintained I have 3 friends that smote the **** out of these motors and all of them have over 35,000+ miles on them without any problems except one where he had some shop install it like 3 years ago and gave him a head milled to the "can't mill any more marks" and all it did was blow a head gasket, and the had put over 40,000 miles on the motor. Just build the motor correctly and you shouldn't run into any probs.

second... Honda didn't put a h22a in a civic because it is heavy, and the way the motor is laid out it put alot of stress on the rear mount and cross member in such a small car. if you notice anything that came with a h22a in (except the euro type r) had a huge rear mount and crossmember and a another crossmemeber in the front much like the 4th civics and crx's. Plus out of all reality why would honda put an h22a in a civic? then they could sell a prelude or type r accord for X amont of money because who would buy a accord for $20,000 when they could buy an h22a powered civic for $12,000.

And third
A b18c (non R) is an over priced pile of **** (sorry to everyone that has one) I think yes the bottom end is most reliable out of all hybrid swaps (for a 1.8,except for the b16a which has an amazing Rod ratio, which is why they are sooo smooth. and last when you smote on them) I mean the b18c's head doesn't flow as well as a b16a, and the intake manifold is crap (stock) There are not enough reasons to justify $1000-1500 more than a b16a swap to spend that kinda of money. For that kinda of difference I personally rather save the extra $2000 and buy a type R swap.
Or BUILD a b20 vtec motor that will crush b16 b18 and b18CR .

Just my opinion of course
I hope I didn't offend any gsr owners

peace


[Modified by NirSpec1, 12:00 AM 1/14/2003]

JDM CRX

for the record,,,, a b18c (GSR head) with the skunk2 mani,, anything other than stock,,, flows better than a b16. its been proven with NO intake mani's that the b18c head Vs the b16 head, the b18c flows better.. NOW,,, calm down to all the ******** that are gonna be gay and flame me out,,, i said FLOW BETTER,, and as in, on a FLOW test MACHINE.(proof) YEAH in THEORY and to every fruit loop that doesnt understand what im talking about the b16 "flows better" when in reality now,, "flows better" is due to the R/S ratio giving it the "better flow" and higher revving power capabilities. whereas the b18c has the torque and not soo great upper RPM power and "less flow" when in reality that is due to its R/S ratio as well.(only real difference being is 10mm less rod length on the b16s) if someone wants to be gay and flame me out, i have the book that did all the research on it and tested it. if it gets stupid enough in this post,, hopefully ill find someone that can post the pics and info of it and shut everyone up.
just my TWO cents for what its worth

NirSpec1

I would agree with jdm crx that a gsr head with skunk manifold will flow close to a b16a head but, "in all reality" I would think that honda would have used the gsr head on the flagship ITR, but no they used a ported b16 head... hmmm... Now i would agree that it is possible that a gsr head could make more power due to the cumbustion chamber but flow better is debatable, plus in my reply I was talking about stock to stock comparison, and if you see fit to spend an extra grand on a gsr head you go right ahead. And as far as R/S ratio your right it's only about 10mm less, but 10mm in a motor is huge. I'm not saying you can't make a gsr head flow as good or better that a b16a, just that for the money a gsr swap is not worth the $$$ youj will pay for it.

Peace

1RMDave

Nice to see some people agree. Anyway, not flaming but why would honda use the pr3 head on the b18c5 if the b18c1 head flows better?

JD_B18CDX

It does not matter what kind of head honda put on the C5. Whatever honda did, it met their target. A RELIABLE 200hp motor from a 1.8 displacement motor.

B18C1s are were built in the early 90s as a performance motor and upgrade to B18s. There is no argument here, the B18C is better
B18C5 came a couple of years after that and an "improved" b18c. There is also no argument here. The b18C5 is better than the C1.

The argument here is money spent vs reliability rather than what the motors can do.
Example, if you try to make a used B18C1 perform like a used b18C5 by changing parts (intake manifold, cams, pistons, valve train) your going to end up spending more money than just buying a b18C5.

Same with the B18 Ls motor. To get it to B18c1 levels your going to spend a good bit of money to build it.

In the end, why would you go to all the trouble of building a frank engine when you have a motor that is tested to be reliable and still make good power.

Or lets put it this way......

While your waiting for your frankenstein parts and machine shop to be completed, I have my B18C1 or 5 up and running enjoying my ride. And after you are done with your frank engine, your still being carefull not to break it because of time and money put into it. Me, I'm just enjoying my factory honda reliable B18c motor and still smoke a lot of the vehicles on the street.

lazyvietboi

I would like to bring this back from the dead.

Nameless RB26

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazyvietboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to bring this back from the dead. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Good job. :claps:

1_bad_EF

Its alive.....ALIVE!!!!
I have 83 miles on my ls?/gsr?/vtec thingy?? what timing belt should I have?
all I need is a block girdle and then I can rev

Jonathan_ED3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECVillain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He should've used a B18C1 GSR timing belt but he used the LS one. </TD></TR></TABLE>