JDMDelSol4

heres the story, 99 Vtec h23a mated to a bseries tranny, basically a OBD2 motor in an OBD1 car, running a p28 ecu chipped with s300. The problem im having is when the swap was done, they left me with an OBD1 internal coil dizzy, an Iacv with 2 prongs and not three, and has original OBD2 cut and spliced injectors. I understand the motor has its ckp outside the dizzy would this be a problem?. It rev bounces all day at 4200 rpm. Im thinking of trying the VTEC oil pressure switch bypass because the H23 does not have a pressure switch. it also wont show any IAT or RPM through hondata but will show rpm on the guage cluster. i was told i also had to wire in resistors much like the resistor box to trick my ecu into thinking i have peak and hold when they are saturated. my mind is beginning to boggle itself with all the useful/useless information on this motor. any and all help is greatly appreciated

apexi_rsx

sounds like something to do with the crank sensor. vtec solenoid would not have to do with this. are you getting any CEL's post them up

NotAJDMFanBoy

You can rewire your IACV to work right. Or bypass it. Get the CKP sensor wired up. Get a USDM vtec solenoid to add the oil pressure sensor. These aren't difficult issues. Get them taken care of and see where it leaves you.

I am honestly not sure if those injectors are peak and hold or saturated. I believe you can use an ohm-meter to check the internal resistance and that will tell you if they're one or the other. Or just get some ID1000s or Precision 880s or something bigger.

turbociv910

is your car tuned? maybe its a rev limit at 4200 to prevent you from ruining it???

JDMDelSol4

thanks for the quick response, as of right now it doesnt show any CEL's on the cluster or through hondata, the vtec solendoid is off the jdm b16 that used to be in the car so it is wired for vtec, i'll have to take a look at the ckp sensor tommorow and give you a heads up, last i checked there was about 3 ohms resistance so they're peak and hold, but does obd1 use peak hold inj?

my car has yet to be tuned/put on a dyno because of the rev cut, one shop around the area screwed me for 175 cash for hooking a ****ing laptop up to it, and the other fried my first hondata chip on the ecu install.

JDMDelSol4

alright not much progress has been made over the relaxin holiday but i managed to pull the engine harness and tested continuity between all wires and it looks good so far except for the vtec solenoid wire which ripped right out of the plug, not sure if this could be the culprit. also i need a description as to how to rewire the ckp, as far as i know mine is ran through the dist in obd1? correct me if im wrong.

JDMDelSol4

bump for some h23 know how, positive that my ckp is no near the crank pulley as there is no wires for it, it has to be run through the distributor but what would the difference in swapping dizzy'sfrom obd 2-1. why does the obd2 engine have its sensors near the crank and not dizzy? sorry for the noob questions im just tired of seeing this thing sit here

JDMDelSol4

bump if you swapped this engine and had problems

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

The s300 does not look for a crank position sensor and you can disable the vtec oil pressure sensor in s300. if your hitting a rev limit and do not show any check engine codes it has to be a setting in s300.

JDMDelSol4

so i got a set of h22 injectors, thier in and wired as are the resistors, never changed the alternator cause i cant find why there's any difference, kept the top half of the intake manifold and changed over to a 2 wire iacv, not sure if its the basemap/tune for the car or a pooched sensor but it cold starts to a 2000rpm idle then decreases to 1000rpm and bounces up to 2500rpm continually, i could post my tune if someone is willing to look. all input helps, thanks.

JDMDelSol4

bump for ideas

thegr8one013

if you have a obd1 distributor, and obd1 harness you dont need to worry about that external ckp sensor.

whats the ohm reading on the injectors? im not sure if obd2 need a resistor box or not

SL0WEGG

IIRC obd2 prelude injectors use a resistor box. If your idle is bouncing like that. You must have a vac leak somewhere. or your iacv isn't function properly.

TiMiD703

iTrader: (1)

I am having the same exact problems as you described with the same exact motor and setup and what I am about to do is this. http://hondaswap.com/~pills/idlefix.html

First I need to verify the cooling system is completely out of air bubbles. After that I am going to test for vacuum leaks. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY

I am also running a S300 and I am throwing code 16 (Injectors) but I verified everything and just turned the code off in the S300 so that's fine.

Try those and let us know how yours turns out.

tofast4uh22

watch that video^^^^^ h22's are notorious for the fast idle control valve coming loose. was the video to the right about half way through. that is most likely your problem.

TiMiD703

iTrader: (1)

Fixed mine with bleeding out all the air bubbles out of the cooling system one more time and finding the vacuum leak on the intake manifold. Running normal for now. I will let you know if any problems show up. It's FIXED!

JDMDelSol4

i'm definately going to try bleeding the air from the coolant system cause it is a fairly new rad and coolant i'll also try the iacv and fast idle if it doesnt work, but the car ran with no check engine light on a crome tuned p28 ecu......? makes me think my ecu board might be burnt somewhere when the hondata chip was socketed? does anyone on ht do crome tuning and familiar with the h23? Im thinking of purchasing a seperate p28 to crome tune again. id appreciate all help. thanks.

JDMDelSol4

so i got my ecu board swapped with a virgin p28, got it resoldered with a new socket and she finally breathes, minus a few CEL's. i disabled the knock sensor to get rid of the code 23 but im still left with a code 6? i understand its for the ECT(coolant temp) but its causing the erratic idle around 2k rpm. any ideas or suggestions? im so close to finally having this thing running please help haha. thanks.

SL0WEGG

Make sure you've got a solid connection between sensor and ecu. As well as making sure it works lol

JDMDelSol4

I went at the sensor with a multimeter, it shows voltage from the power on the plug to a known ground, it shows varying resistance across the sensor when tested from .5v to 13v, not sure if thats normal but everything else checked out so im guessing thats my problem?

JDMDelSol4

a little update, i've replaced all three of the coolant sensors with known working sensors, and still am blowing a code 6? has anybody else had this problem? none of the coolant wiring has been touched and as far as i can see checks out, doe it have something to do with the ECT correction %? its shows a value of 0 % but also the temperature stay at 150.9 cold or warm? any input helps.

JDMDelSol4

bump for knowledge anyone, all 3 sensors replaced and wiring is good. is their anyway to bypass this code? please help

UncleD

iTrader: (2)

I'm currently chasing this same code on a friend's car...code 6. Stupid.

JDMDelSol4

your luck turning out any better then mine, im still trying to track down the issue, getting annoyed haha