4TheLoveOfBoost

Ok so Ive been going at it for a couple of months now with my friend trying to get a H2B Gsr going on the road. When we got it it was from a guy from a Local JDM Facebook page that was going to trade with my friend for his F Swapped four door.

Anyways getting to the car. We got the Car knowing it did not Run but Sowe compression tested prior to trade and it came back perfect across all four cylinders. So at this point we were interested in the car so we did the trade.

We get the car back to my buddies house and start looking at problems and there was a ton. There was multiple grounds missing from the harness. He had ghetto rigged A resistor box onto it for the obd1 injectors and everything was just a mess. So we took a cleaner wiring harness and soldered on OBD2 injector wires and picked up a set of OBD2 injectors. Went around made sure all grounds were ok and everything was good. The Ignition coil, Rotor, Plug wires and cap are all new.

We then noticed that the Connector plug by the shock tower ( I believe comes from the dashboard harness ) was smashed probably from him putting in the swap and hitting it with the transmission or something.
We took a Clip off a EG Hatch and Soldered it on Color to color everything matches.

It is a OBD1 Gsr and the Eg Hatch plug was OBD1.

Anyways we fired it up and it Ran but revved up to about 4k on its own dropped way down and conked out.

We then disconnected the Map sensor and it Idles Fine but runs really really rich. As soon as you Plug in the Map sensor it Revs back up to 4k drops way down and bogs out till it dies.

So Far we have Calibrated the TPS Sensor and it is spot on
Redid the intake manifold gasket
Tried multiple Known working Map sensors
Cleaned the IACV
Checked timing and it is on ( has Skunk 2 cam gears but at top dead center all Points line up )
The coolant has been bled
Throttle Body has been cleaned
The Throttle cable does not have tension to rev it up




Im pretty much ready to rip out my hair at this point from just hitting the same problem after every little thing that we do.

Has anyone ever had this problem with a swap?
You literally start it up with the Map plugged in and it Revs to 4k than dies.
If you disconnect the Map it will idle fine but runs extremely rich.

Could a head gasket cause this problem because I Noticed some oil seaping from the head near the distributor?

any thoughts or suggestions would be highly appreciated. I want to get this running before the snow comes! Thanks !

HiProfile

FIRST off, does it throw any codes? If so, post them up. This will help the MOST with diagnosing your problem.

Try a WORKING MAP SENSOR from another car. This is how you test the MAP sensor & wires: turn the key off and check the voltage on all the wires. When looking into the MAP sensor's connector (not the wired plug), you will see the letters "V G O" above each pin. You should get 5 volts between V and G, and with the key on & engine off it should output 2.4-2.6 volts between G and O.

Another thing that could be wrong is the TPS and MAP connectors are swapped. If they are, the ecu thinks the throttle is halfway open and will open the IACV to hit that RPM. You can check this by unplugging the IACV then plugging the MAP sensor in. It will die from injecting too much fuel but it shouldn't rev to 4k.

Tang87

The oil problem by the distributor might be the distributor o-ring or vtec solenoid gaskets. As for the revving...not sure...did you check the actual butterfly valve make sure nothing got jammed in there?

F22Master

This.

4TheLoveOfBoost

Thank you everyone for the Prompt Responses! And I appreciate all input I can get at this point.

The TPS and Map connectors are not swapped. I know this for a fact
The Map sensors we used were working in others cars. Including mine off my Prelude

I have not checked the actual wiring to the Map Sensor ty for the tip I will get on that!

The butterfly valve is not hung up. Was cleaned before installation. We swapped a Low mileage Throttle body off of a Manifold that he had.

I have worked on quite a few Hondas in my time but Im far from knowing as much as experienced people on this forum. This is all new to me. I have no idea what would make a Engine rev to 4k when the map is plugged in.

could it be a wiring issue somewhere? The only wires that confused me was the two Brown with a black striped wires on the Dashboard harness plug? Does it matter which one goes to which? or are they both the same?

Or a distributor related issue?

Im going to call him and see whats up with checking the codes.

4TheLoveOfBoost

Bump

Tang87

I've read somewhere two wires get shorted together and it was cause this. I wI'll have to check find that again

4TheLoveOfBoost

If you could locate that that would be great! I just wanna see this puppy rippin!

HiProfile

Yes it could cause that, but that would require checking wires. So far you have not verified the MAP wires as I explained how to do so in post #2.

sodaZC

It is either the vacuum lines or map/tps sensor plugs.

1. Verify vacuum lines, pay close attention that you dont have charcoal cannister and map sensor lines swapped.
2. verify colors of TPS wiring.. should be red, green, and yellow i think.
3. spray carb choke cleaner on injectors/intake manifold to check for leaks.

I am confident you will figure it out by verifying these things.

4TheLoveOfBoost

I did check the Map sensor wiring and the results all matched up with what you had posted. I Did use 2 map sensors that came with the car and also switched mine off my car and tried it. Same thing.

I have sprayed 2 or 3 cans now of Carb cleaner around the Manifold, Fuel rail, Throttle body, vacuum lines, all over and I did not get an increase of Rpm. If you put your hand over the throttle body the car will quit. It does not even stay running for a second.

The FITV is set correctly.
The TPS is calibrated correctly.
The Map Sensor is getting and sending out the right power.



Im unable to work on the car today but I am going to start looking into the wiring tomorrow. Any other Ideas would be awesome so I can make a list of things to do tomorrow

But for now here are some pics

4TheLoveOfBoost

I did do all this. But I will triple check again tomorrow to make sure.

sodaZC

You mentioned that you sprayed carb cleaner on injectors and intake mani and it didn't rev, but keep in mind 9 times out of 10 spraying in an unsealed injector will make your motor BOG for a split second instead of REV. I'll think of some ideas and post if I can think of anything.

Omg can't believe I forgot this. When my motor got shipped to me it had a hairline crack on the intake manifold that I NEVER would have found. Same symptoms. I said fck it because it was my daily and just had to live with it for a minute. Sure enough accelerating on my ways work a loud *** whistle coming from engine bay. Had a friend rev and hold it steady while i probed around and this hidden crack on the back of the manifold became known. Swap the mani f you have a spare.

4TheLoveOfBoost

Hiboost I did all it was around 2.6 with the engine in the on position and when the car is running it drops down about 1.3 volts

HiProfile

I'd suggest trying it with the TPS disconnected. It you ever find the problem I fear it will be something extremely uncommon or very dumb/obvious.

4TheLoveOfBoost

HiProfile I did try it with the Tps sensor disconnected and it wont run. I did notice that if I fire it up with the map sensor disconnected I can unplug the iacv and it will run with the map plugged in.

I double checked the iac to see if the valve moved inside from they key being turned on and it did.

4TheLoveOfBoost

We did swap the manifold with all new gaskets. The one that was on it looked like some hack tried to "port it" on his own

We used a low mileage mani off of a buddies jdm h22

I've been trying to get my buddy to work on it cause it's at his house but no luck.

I've just been working on my gsr hatch

HiProfile

If it runs with the IACV unplugged & MAP plugged in, it has something to do with the IACV (wiring or the internals). The IACV at 100% open can rev the engine quite high, but closed (or disconnected) it should still let the engine idle to a minimum of 400rpm. My guess is the IACV is inadvertently being commanded to go 100% open, then the ecu reacts violently turning it to 0%, and the RPM's drop too fast to let the ecu "catch" it before it dies.

Dumb question, but have you tried a different IACV?