Daemonico

Im so sorry about that long delay, but my data wasnt working and just got a new tablet. I finally finished wiring everything in using what I had, an external coil and the obd1 dizzy that was already on the motor. I got her started pretty quick! Thanks for everyones help! Now, as a side update. I had some crazy idling problems as well as weird bogging and popping (open header until everything is finished). Ive gone through and tested the IACV, TPS and MAP. The MAP was bad(signal was not changing with vacuum). The TPS worked fine. The IACV was damaged and had no wire connector. The previous owner had it rigged shut. I replaced it with the same type from the junkyard. I am lost on one thing. It is a 3 wire iacv. I know everyone is saying the 2 wire trick is necessary so I already did the trick at the ecu pinout. Apparently this trick is only when u switch to an actual 2 wire iacv. I found no iacv's that match this 3 stacked rectangle type that is on the back of the IM. Please advise on the best solution. I really do not want to swap the entire IM to a usdm IM unless nescessary. The rpms jump up and down at low speed but after about 3k rpm it runs out feeling healthy. I dont know if its caused by the iacv or the way the vacuum lines are setup (butterfly plate removed). Again, this is running on a obd1 P28 chipped and mapped for h23 vtec

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

The engine should have came with an OBD2 internal coil… that is SUPER WEIRD that it was already on the engine.
Ummm…. the IACV is usually on the front of the intake manifold but it look like you have a some kind of weird manifold there. You must use the 2 wire AICV from an OBD1 H22. I have one I can sell you for cheap so PM me. The OBD1 IACV does not fit the upper plenum of the H22A/H23A OBD2 engines. Therefore you must get an OBD1 upper Plenum if you want to run an IACV. That means that you do not need to get an entire new manifold, but just the upper. Also, you can disable the AICV when you tune the car and just adjust the idle with your TB if you want… Having a functional AICV is better though. Rosko makes a billet adapter which allows you to run the OBD1 IACV on the EuroR OBD2 intake. Since you have a manifold that has the AICV on the rear, the Rosko adapter will probably work on it! I think that you should contact him and see what he says. I'm thinking that you could just use his adapter and bolt on the OBD1 IACV and you'll be good to go on that… almost 100% as long as you have enough firewall clearance for an extra 1/4 inch that the adapter adds.
I tried to tell you this a while ago.

Daemonico

Thanks for all the info. Yah, I think your original info got overlooked because I was dealing with trying to get my dizzy working. Im not sure which route im gunna take. I really am strapped right this sec, as ive gone over my budget trying to button her up. Im trying to diagnose the issue I am having with the motor. I dont think the iacv is the only reason why the car is having issues starting up from cold start. Ive seen multiple cars be able to start and run without the iacv plugged in electrically. The car turns over and starts up. Sounds good for a 3-5 seconds, then slowly dies off, sounding like it wants to stay running. If you give it even a little gas, it immediate cuts off. Once you start it repeatedly, the car eventually stays running. Seems to be okay and healthy once fully running.

What are the pros and cons of eliminating the iacv? Is a block off plate all that is necessary? Additionally, does anyone know why a 3 wire will never work? There is no way to wire it in?

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

THERE IS NO WAY to get the 3 wire to work, the reason why is that it has a different signal which requires an extra wire to transmit. Otherwise, IDK what is wrong with your car. If the IACV is not working then the car will not idle right, and die when its cold. When it is warm, the IACV will not do much. Basically it is an electronically operated valve that lets additional air into your intake when your idle gets below a certain point. Think of it as automatically pushing your gas pedal when your idle get lower than it should, even though that is not whats going on. That is sort of the way it functions b/c it lets addition air into your intake to raise the RPMS automatically to a suitable level. This shouldn't affect it when you press the gas though so you got me stumped as to why its dying. You can adjust your idle so that the RPMS are about 1200 with the TB adjustment. The car should be able to stay running without a wiring AICV if you do that. Again PM me if you want to buy mine for cheap.
Once more, I am pretty sure Rosko's adapter can help you and save you from buying an OBD1 upper plenum since your IACV is mounted on the rear of your manifold. Contact him and seek his advice since he knows his products better than I, but I'm thinking yes… it will work. https://www.roskoracing.com/cgi-bin/...on&key=200-011

Ryan Edwards

DUDE I'm having the exact same problem.. I have 2 dizzys.. One 8/2 h23a just like yours.. and one single plug 8 pin. Like osc007. So my harness is 7/2 and I think that's why it wasn't sparking/firing because I had an 8 plug on a 7. So I went to rywire.com and bought a OBD 1 to OBD 2 dizzy jump. I'm hoping this solves my problem. I'm going to use the single plug 8 pin. Think it will fire up???

Moshpitmike93

what an ******* that's what this forum is for is for people to help others not for people to down people because they don't understand something, stupid.

Daemonico

All good, I successfully completed that car a day after my last post years ago. Considering I pretty much had to rewire/extend every connection, I was worried but I continuity checked every connection as I went. Anyways, the engine started right up, ran like a champ with zero issues or codes. Ignore the ignorant ******** on the internet, some people on the forums are still helpful and not keyboard warrior losers.