b16projection

hey guy i just got a jdm h23 vtec blue top and a b16 type r trans non lsd.
my plans are a qsd kit because of the b series clutch flywheel mounts and axles etc.
i have a 94 dx coupe with manual streeing rack d15b7 manual trans.
and ive done more research and ive seen h2b without adapter??? could someone explain..
what all parts do i need?
im 18 and lanscape and work 11hr days and only have weekends i need to be able to drop it in in a day mabey
stock block h23 vtec i/h/e cam deck the head a lil bit of gasket port match to skunk 2 intake manifold
plans to buy another h23 vtec and sleeve and boost good size turbo..
please let me me know what you guys think, im a smart kid. talk

SpokaneSpeed

Idk where you saw an H2B kit without an adapter... You need the adapter to mate the B-series trans to the H-series engine....

I wouldn't recommend the H2B if you're looking for a quick an easy swap... specially if this is your first swap. You can do it in a day or two yourself, if you have everything, but 9/10 times people forget something or get half-way done and run into issues that they did not plan for. There are extensive write-ups on the H2B swap and the parts you need, just search & read!

H2B FAQ's

b16projection

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...w-o-plate.html
and i saw one at my local ifo a few days ago too. i know illl have some money into it. i just want to have everything for what i need. my first swap not my first build. i bought a gsr block when i was 16 and my freind blew up a b16a2 so we built a ptr stroker wih ls rods and built a 6262 srt4 been around bikes grew up on a motorcross track.. im planning on spending another 2gs on what i need

doood

iTrader: (1)

Did you just ask how to do it without the adapter plate, then post a link on how to do it?

b16projection

in not asking about what to do but what all parts i need..if i did that id like to talk to someone who has done.

SpokaneSpeed

Looks HAGGARD as ****! I would be extremely concerned about strength/durability...

b16projection

yeah but i just want to talk to someone who has done it and see what they have to say about it.. dont tell me to change my plans i already bought and have what i want to do. i know what im putting together, for this setup over 200whp and short a** gears.. fun street daily

SpokaneSpeed

Good luck

shocker911

just spend the money buy the QSD kit. Well worth the money and you wont have to cut the **** out of your block and drill and tap holes then maybe you strip them out they your up a creek without a paddle.

the171

many ppl have tried/done the plateless h2b. just search it here on ht. it usually turns out to be a hack job. qsd stuff is great quality, the best choice for sure. h2b with a h23a is a great swap. the performance is surprising for a stock engine. b16 trans... is ok but s80 type R is better if you can. If you do a lot of highway driving a gsr lsd trans might be the ultimate choice. Cruising at 4000+ rpm all the time on your h23a burns a bit more fuel (although it gets by no problem with the type r transmission).

my personal opinion... H2B is a swap for N/A people. Boosting H engines requires some advanced knowledge about the motors, speciality pistons, or sleeving. Plus, space is already tight under the hood. Theres already more power than needed anyway. Unless you're into drag racing, then ok, but a regular b18 motor makes more sense for a turbo setup.

as for dropping it in a day... possibly but most people who have successful h2b cars will tell you the swap is a major project. there are lots of small details to consider, sometimes trial and error plays a part until the car drives just how you want it. Especially if you start building in other custom ideas. then theres tuning, etc. that said, if you really plan it out and keep it simple, it could be done in 1 day. mine took about 2 years before i was totally happy with every detail. even still i could make small changes. A less is more approach helps. One more tip, the "thing to do" is eliminate the balance shafts. But, it isn't necessary and the setup runs so smooth if you leave them in. The motor feels better WITH the BS imo. decent injectors and a nice flywheel will help with throttle response.

HiProfile

12 months of daily driving & several thousand miles good enough for ya? IMO hood spacers needed for the other kits are HAGGARD as ****.

The only problem so far was a leaky seal inside the distributor & leaky valve cover, which are not even H2B specific. It takes less grinding than a QSD/Evo kit, has the same ground clearance as a b-series, and even uses an UNMODIFIED header. H2B headers are getting hard to find and all I had to do was buy & shorten a 92-96 Prelude test pipe to mate it to my exhaust. It also uses a stock B-series flywheel, and you don't have to worry about extended f/w bolts coming loose as have been seen on H-T a few times. The most time-intensive part was moving the brake line, and only because I decided to keep the dual-plenum manifold on it so I can get a baseline for the K20A2 intake manifold. My F22 swap fit with the existing brake lines.

The QSD may be a bit more friendly if you have the IQ of a slug, but most people who swap motors on Honda's are a bit smarter than that.

the171

hi profile, kudos for making it legit. for most of us the kit is easier/ better. can you elaborate on how your design helps with hood closing?

HiProfile

It's due to the extra clearance above the valve cover & plenum. The plateless method tilts it back towards the firewall at nearly the same angle as a full-H swap while the plate kits tilt the motor forward roughly the same angle as a b/d-series. The other kits' plate push the engine into the way of the shock tower, preventing the use of that angle. This is also why you get the ground clearance of a b-series; the header outlet is even directly in-line with the Civic exhaust as a bonus.

I forgot to mention some other benefits: there is no clearance issues with the alternator or double-row crank pulleys, no issues with the balance shafts or timing covers hitting the frame, and enough clearance to change a water pump while bolted up. The P/S pump could even be fit in there using the 2nd row if the crank pulley was moved inwards 1/4" like some people have done. One more relating to K2H: I don't have a RBC manifold to test, but I do know the PRB K20A2 intake fits just fine.

And it really isn't my design, but I am one of the first to consolidate & post all the info. However I've already made 4 bracket kits for friends since it saves several hundred over a kit+header.



FYI this is a cheap ebay header, the gap between the tubes and oil pan is 2". The H23A also uses the deeper F23A oil pan, which is 1/2" deeper than F22 & H22 oil pans.

b16projection

how much needs to be done to chassis i know you have to cut a little subframe. notch the hood ...and hood spacers if i need it.. i really just need to have a phone call with someone.

wutthebun

iTrader: (2)

im a smart kid. talk

HiProfile

The plateless method requires zero frame mods and no hood spacers for an EG/EK/DC. You might have to dent the frame rail in an EF for the crank pulley.

The kits with plates require hood spacers (EF/EG) and modding the frame (all chassis) for the crank pulley. People swap on a single-row pulley & dent the frame or cut the frame to fit the 2-row crank pulley. I've also seen people using special shims to remove the B/S pulley in order to move the crank pulley inwards.

b16projection

So the h23a is obd2 and my car is non vtec obd1.. obd1 is split harness at firewall. Obd2 is one harness. And I was researching doing a obd2 in obd1 chassis and they pretty vague.. Im planning on building harness single piece wires like repinning into plugs and adding vtec wire.. I think the h23 vtec stock injectors need a resistor box? planning on running other injectors as far as oem dsm or what ever.

Brough

@Mr Hiprofile, do you still need a k20 intake f22 basemap? I have one for a f22 stock with ex cam, stock civic/integra 245 injectors, i/h/e. 147whp 139wtq tuned on chrome

HiProfile

147whp from a stock EX cam is impressive! I wouldn't mind looking at that map, mostly to see how ignition timing changes - I've only seen ign maps from cam'd F22 heads. I'd also love to see how much further that manifold carries the power.

Do you happen to have a picture of the dyno sheet? Any plans on putting a bigger cam into that motor?