MaddDogg49

Ok I bought a stolen recovery a couple months ago(2000 SI Coupe)... no motor, mounts, or engine harness.

I bought a jdm clip and then a si harness.

I got a 2000 Civic Si full harness, obd1 to 2 jumper harness, obd1 H22a

I jumped the ecu and got 3, 6 , and 20.

I fixed the map sensor and put in a ect sensor and still got 6 and 20.

Ive got a obd1 alt and obd2 fuse box.

My alt is brand new and is working but my battery keep dieing. I bought a new alt a couple weeks ago but i checked the old on on the battery and it said no output from alt. I put the new one in and it said full connection. last night it didn't, it did the same as b4 but i cecked the alt and its working porperly.

Another thing is im not running secondarys on my intake cause the si harness dont have them so i can't hook it up. Which is another reason why im running rich.

How can i get my car to stay charged and no my check engine light? I wanna hit vtec sometime this year... lol


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 7:34 AM 12/4/2005


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 10:51 AM 12/4/2005


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 12:40 PM 12/4/2005

MaddDogg49

Another thing i was thinking if the eld isnt ther would that make my spark plugs misfire cause it cant regulate the voltage? Can I use a obd2 alt and it see the eld sensor? or do i have to use a obd1 fuse box for it to see it? if it sees the eld sensor and gets the voltage right them it should charge right, Would my ect work then?

Adam.

well obd1 to obd1 jumper harness is no good if you are using a 2000 si harness and an obd1 ecu.

Quick99Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well obd1 to obd1 jumper harness is no good if you are using a 2000 si harness and an obd1 ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure it's a typo b/c he got the ECU connected and working.

I don't understand the ECT code. As I understood it, the USDM H22's have 2 coolant temp sensors while the JDM has only one.

Adi

h22 civic

i would check the fuse under dash fuse box it is a 7.5 fuse and says alt ,,the eld could be the prob but pretty uncommon and the alt will def make your car throw codes if you bring it to a ignition shop to test it will prob come up good but the voltage reg will prob not be detected on the machine

MaddDogg49

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well obd1 to obd1 jumper harness is no good if you are using a 2000 si harness and an obd1 ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i meant 1 to 2
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quick99Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm sure it's a typo b/c he got the ECU connected and working.

I don't understand the ECT code. As I understood it, the USDM H22's have 2 coolant temp sensors while the JDM has only one.

Adi</TD></TR></TABLE>

but if i only got one wouldnt my ecu only look for one?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22 civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would check the fuse under dash fuse box it is a 7.5 fuse and says alt ,,the eld could be the prob but pretty uncommon and the alt will def make your car throw codes if you bring it to a ignition shop to test it will prob come up good but the voltage reg will prob not be detected on the machine </TD></TR></TABLE>

alt works but every so often its like it looses connection and doesnt charge... the other night it wasnt chargeing then i slowed down to turn and every thing cut back on and worked.

Im gonna check the colors on the wiring to make sure the si harness ect is the one pluged up and gonna check all the fuses.

I dont think my car has a eld sensor though, obd2 fuse box dont have it and a obd1 alt dont have it where else could it be and where can i add it and how. Can i get a obd2 alt and use it and it work or do i have to switch to a obd1 fuse box and hope it has all the same fuses.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quick99Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As I understood it, the USDM H22's have 2 coolant temp sensors while the JDM has only one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

USDM has two fan switches (one for the cooling fan, one for the A/C fan). They both have one ECT sensor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddDogg49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alt works but every so often its like it looses connection and doesnt charge... the other night it wasnt chargeing then i slowed down to turn and every thing cut back on and worked.

Im gonna check the colors on the wiring to make sure the si harness ect is the one pluged up and gonna check all the fuses.

I dont think my car has a eld sensor though, obd2 fuse box dont have it and a obd1 alt dont have it where else could it be and where can i add it and how. Can i get a obd2 alt and use it and it work or do i have to switch to a obd1 fuse box and hope it has all the same fuses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The alt should have a problem. Check your connections.

h22 civic

obd2 has eld it hooked up to the 80 and 40 relay (little brown looking chip )under hood fuse box, im going to say that the alt is shot if it does charge at one point then all of a sudden it dont id imagine the wireing is done rite being it is charging at one point if their is a loose wire or bad ground that is another story

MaddDogg49

Ok i got to lookin and come to find out the Vtec and the ECT were swwitched so now I only had code 20. I took it up the road and the pulled in the gas station and now I got code 20 and 41.

I Got a New battery and it died last night so theres nuthin wrong with my batterys( Not gettin charged but they work). and im gettin a 12 volts off the alt... I gonna check the connections today and check fuses. But how do i get rid of this 20 code(im up for any suggestions to get it gone)?

On the lude which color wire do i plug the Air / Fuel Gauge up to?

Ohh yeah my speedometer aint working ehter...can it be a fuse or should i but in a new VSS?


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 7:55 AM 12/4/2005

MaddDogg49

This is a small build up...

Bringin it home on the trailer




At the Shop


Engine












Sum whut done....







This happened on one of my test drives.... it wasnt fun but... make sure u tightin ur lugs




Where it draged

Tire went though the intersection


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 11:02 AM 12/4/2005


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 11:04 AM 12/4/2005

MaddDogg49

HOLY ****.... no check engine light... im gonna take it up the road in a little bit but i changed the l low beam fuse and the alt sp fuse and no check engine light... and my air / fuel guage is workin... lean but workin.....

hondaZvic

wtf.....

someone should get u a torque wrench for xmas.

STEV3-O

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtf.....

someone should get u a torque wrench for xmas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and also a battery tie down. other wise nice project

MaddDogg49

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STEV3-O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and also a battery tie down. other wise nice project </TD></TR></TABLE>

na i relocated the battery, I had it in the front to test.


I took it up the road and the o2 heater code came back on. That and i keep blowing the alt sp fuse.

Another thing is my speedometer hasnt worked in about a week and a half and i was drivin down the road and it just started workin again...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
someone should get u a torque wrench for xmas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<U>"kiss my ***"</U> &lt; sorry i thought u were commenting from the last reply not the tire one


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 5:40 PM 12/9/2005


Modified by MaddDogg49 at 5:42 PM 12/9/2005

hondaZvic

dam.. so harsh man.. i wasnt trying to be mean to you or anything...

i like ur project, and i give u props, i bet u even came out pretty good financially on this thing too huh?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddDogg49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Another thing is my speedometer hasnt worked in about a week and a half and i was drivin down the road and it just started workin again...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this could either be a bad connection. or maybe the VSS is going out...

MaddDogg49

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dam.. so harsh man.. i wasnt trying to be mean to you or anything...

i like ur project, and i give u props, i bet u even came out pretty good financially on this thing too huh?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry i was haveing a bad day and it looked like you were saying it like a ***... thanks though.
financiallly ****... its a stolen recovery... it didnt have **** in the engine bay. That and the obd1 engine is a 93 so **** was old so alot of **** went out or i thought went out. Distributor coil like 3 times, Alt, Starter, Alt fuses 4 times and counting, and my plugs.

Ive got new pics i just got to upload them, my car looks better now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this could either be a bad connection. or maybe the VSS is going out...</TD></TR></TABLE>
If its still workin i aint messin with nuthin, when it goes back out is a different story.

I had to replace the 02 sensor and now i cant figure out where to hook up the air / fuel gauge. My car is codeless, the o2 heater code came on when i went up the road yesterday so i replaced it... My car still aint hittin vtec... anyone got a idea?

Root79

Alt mean alternator. If it is then check for power on alternator. It needs independent power +. Then you need to torn it, the alternator, when start the engine. And this think will do the ECU.

So, check power to alternator small nippon denso-brain and is it correctly connected to ECU. The battery lamp on dash could not be displayed. Seems like everything OK. But it's not.

Just wire the + from the big power cable on alternator. See in wiring diagrams, which pin in alternator connector need it.

fishwgoose

how old/what type of engine block did you instal? And how much did it cost you.

MaddDogg49

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishwgoose &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how old/what type of engine block did you install? And how much did it cost you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

93.. 2000 and i got it in a whole clip

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Root79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alt mean alternator. If it is then check for power on alternator. It needs independent power +. Then you need to torn it, the alternator, when start the engine. And this think will do the ECU.

So, check power to alternator small nippon denso-brain and is it correctly connected to ECU. The battery lamp on dash could not be displayed. Seems like everything OK. But it's not.

Just wire the + from the big power cable on alternator. See in wiring diagrams, which pin in alternator connector need it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Whuts your problem, im not ignorant. check your sentence and your spelling

__________________________________________________ ___
OK im about to run another test drive and see how everything is but everything is working. I got the A / F Gauge, It seems about right now and as long as the speedometer works i should hit V-Tec...

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddDogg49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whuts your problem, im not ignorant. check your sentence and your spelling

__________________________________________________ ___
OK im about to run another test drive and see how everything is but everything is working. I got the A / F Gauge, It seems about right now and as long as the speedometer works i should hit V-Tec...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

How about you stop calling people out on bull **** and take their advice. Someone has the nerve to come into your thread and help you with your issue, there is no need to cope an attitude. They are only trying to help alleviate your problem.

Simple trouble shooting will alleviate the problem the fastest and save you time and money. Eliminate the obvious first.

You said the battery is good and new alternator. Assuming those work just fine.

After you KNOW those are good, check wires making sure all is soldered with a secure connection. And also researching in a Helms comparing pins. The actual pins on the OBD1 alternator should match with OBD2 ECU connector, then the conversion harness correcting the pin by relocating it to the correct pin on the OBD1.

I don't have the pinouts/wire colors on hand right now, but I'll wait and see after your test drive how the car operates.

Root79

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddDogg49 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whuts your problem, im not ignorant. check your sentence and your spelling

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually I'm not English speaking man.

The alternator could be brand new but without power to it and control from ECU it will not work. I guess you have 4 pin connector to your alternator. And there must be at least ~14,20V on battery if there is good charging from alternator at idle.

Then check the fuses in under hood fuse box, It's easy to follow with tester how the battery recive charging from alt. Check fuses.

MaddDogg49

it just all i get is criticism about my car the way he typed it made it look like i was stupid... but its just if u read how he typed it it sounded like it... u explained it right... at idle i get around 15 - 16 volts

My EGR and my Secondaries aren't hooked up... after the test drive she ran great but today i went up the road and 20 and 41 came back on so i have no clue... i think the fuse blew again...
This is my egr valve right? and if i hook up the vaccum line and wire it up(right) it should work?


Is this the iab... that does the secondaries? and it kinda broke which is the reason i took it off the motor... will the still work the way it looks?





sorry for miss communication but the way it looks sumtimes it looks like ur sayin i dont know whut im done everything to my car... Everytime i try to get help only people that wanted to help didnt know **** and its the reason my car runs like it does... one reason y i came here

Root79

Look man, I guess we all have sometimes bad or good days. No any offenses about your car or you personally. Good job and project.

I already lost my count on h22 swaps which I did in lot of different chassis. We got many jokes on any of those swaps. Sometime it could painful. Seems like everything OK, but it dose not work.

You can just connect the IAB valve directly to you IM and they will work. When uninstal secondaries, you will bolt together IM manifold cap to mine IM part. But if you check carefuly, they dose not fit little bit corectly under IDLE valve. There will be vacum leak in IM.

If you don't want the cell number 12 all the time, you can add to EGR lift valve 2 small solenoids. Which you can find on any prelude. One of solenoids must connected to ECU.

Cell 20 can be and will be. It will not display the check engine on dash.

Modified by Root79 at 1:03 AM 12/7/2005


Modified by Root79 at 10:31 AM 12/7/2005

MaddDogg49

I keep blowin the Alt SP Fuse thats under the dash and it also blow the low beam headlight fuse sometimes its the left then sometimes its the right... is there any connection... the headlight fuse blows as soon as i turn my lights on.
The Alt SP Fuse blows and then i only run off the battery so thats why my alternator keeps not charging... is it b/c i dont have a eld on my car(obd1 cars its in the fuse box / obd2 cars its on the alternator). Nuthin is wrong with my Alternator or my battery I keep blowin fuses whut can it be?

Root79

Call for continuance in all battery "+" ways begining from altornator, fuse boxes. And check for leaks. The fuses blowing when somewere is "+" leak to ground.