b17gsr

Hey,

Got the H22A powered 94 Teg 4 dr rolling. There are no ECU codes, but once the motor is warm, it has a hard time idling. the rpms vary between 300-800, and often stalls. I played with the throttle body idler screw, no luck.

If I hold the gas at 1000 rpm, the motor purrs real good. Once moving, it's a beast. Compression numbers where between 255-270 psi, cold!!!!

Any ideas what can cause this?

Thanks.

poison

Glad to see things are going well.

As for the problem:

Take off your IACV, grab some Carb/Brake Cleaner, and spray the screens, and clean those things out.

Also, the fast idle valve located underneath the throttle body, take off the plate behind it, and there is a diaphram in there. Tighten that all the way turning the white diaphram.

Also, burp the coolant system, but removing the radiator cap. Turn on the car, let it warm up with the radiator cap off, make sure the coolant level is good with NO air bubbles.

Put the cap back on. That should fix the problem.

b17gsr

Thanks Poison!

I'll keep you posted.

JSPEC4DR

The engine light came back on about 3 mins of leaving ur house b17gsr, and the car wont idle what so ever now, I have to keep my foot on the gas and clutch when I come to a light or a stop sign.

Call me and let me know what time I can come back to the shop.

Thanks

Mike

tonylude94

just a suggestion, you may want to turn your distr. cap a couple degrees towards the firewall. just a thought, it may help. someone correct me if i am wrong.

JSPEC4DR

We tried all 3 procedures tonight and still no luck!

b17gsr

I moved the distributor towards the rad a bit (so retarded it). I guess advancing the timing might help.

It's throwing codes 12 (EGR) and 20 (ELD).

I can understand the EGR, cause there's no EGR valve (any way to prevent it from shooting a code?). But after about 30 seconds, the check engine light turns on (both codes). Not sure why the ELD would be pissed.

For the wax valve, I turned it completely away from the access plate. Is that correct?

poison

Yep that is correct. Moving more towards the motor (tightened all the way).

I will have to look into the ELD. EGR (12) is fine and will not hurt performance. Unfortunately there is no way to prevent the code other than to hook up EGR or just switch the ECU to a chipped P28/P72 or something.

Is it idling poorly still?

b17gsr

can't idle at all once warm.

and feels crappy under 3k.

poison

Try unplugging the IACV while idling to see if it'll idle fine...

If it does, then the IACV is bad. If not, you have vacuum leak or something inside the water system that is not flowing properly.

b17gsr

I did unplug the IACV, and it still wasn't idling correctly.

Wouldn't a vacuum leak give it the needed air to make it idle better?

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b17gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did unplug the IACV, and it still wasn't idling correctly.

Wouldn't a vacuum leak give it the needed air to make it idle better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Vacuum leak will cause poor idle.

T4eg

check the IAC (idle air control)

tinkerbell

teh ELD = Electric Load Detector,

it is locatoed in the alternator and it senses when you switch the headlights/demister/fans on and stuff...

the ECU hten compensates for teh increased load on teh engine by increasing idle speed.

if the ELD is malfunctioning it may lead to a surging or crappy idle...

try swaping alternators!!!

HTH,

t..

accordhybrid

This maybe way off but what injectors are you using? Cause i was having the same problem wiht my H22 in my accord when using the saturated injectors cause the P13 uses peak and hold injectors. Also what ECU are you using? Cause when i had the wrong injectors in the car would not hold idle nor would it ever idle correctly even with doign everything that everyone has told you about.

Accordhybrid

b17gsr

I thought the ELD was located in one of the fuse boxes. I guess we could unplug the alternator and see what happens.

As for injectors and ECU, all OBD1 Prelude SR-V components.

Qfactor

check your O2 maybe is bias rich in closed loop, if you're running rich at idle you will have idling problems. second your TW sensor 2P plug check the resistance when hot look at your Service manual for specs. If you know someone that has Snap on Vantage have him/her check out the iac duty cycle and the O2 and TW sensor. hope this helps.

b17gsr

Ok, after unplugging the green plug on the alternator, and going for a spin, error codes 12 and 20 still appear. But it idles better (but not great).

As for the O2 sensor, the air/fuel gauge seems to work correctly. hmmm

grrrrrrr

BUCKO5

my motor was idiling like that (500-800) when i got it, but it is because i have a 7.5 lb flywheel and a lightweight (maybe 2 lbs) crank pulley, so the motor thinks it needs enough fuel to make a 18-19 lb flywheel, and a 8-10 lb crank pulley, but as soon as it puts the fuel in the car, it revs past the stock idle rpm, then cuts down on the fuel, and then the motor would go down to about 500...i also have no power steering or a/c, so that is some more drag on the motor that is not there any more....

all i did was turn up the idle rpm, it stays the same, but idles slightly high (900-1000)

b17gsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BUCKO5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all i did was turn up the idle rpm, it stays the same, but idles slightly high (900-1000)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even with the idle screw turned completely, it still stalls.