jdmcivicferio

my friend has a jdm 92 h22, in his civic lx (same as mine). But for some strange reason when his car gets hot, it runs really poorly. We have tried to think of everything, from head gasket, to fuel system and all are in good shape.



The only code that is being thrown is code 20 (electronic load)



he is running a jdm p13 computer, the only other posibility I thought of is his cooling system may still have air in it? but shouldn't the car still perform good. Any suggestions would be great, thanks guys.

jdmcivicferio

some things I forgot to mention, the timing is at tdc. The fuel pressure is at 43psi, and the resistor pack was wired up

Newman

Check your spark plugs and wires. Fowled plugs will cause your car to run like "***" on a hot day.... it's mostly more noticable on carburated motors but same still applies to fuel injected cars. Also, try adding more coolant to the radiator (not water or a mixture of coolant & water, but straight coolant) to help with the temps on the motor.

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your spark plugs and wires. Fowled plugs will cause your car to run like "***" on a hot day.... it's mostly more noticable on carburated motors but same still applies to fuel injected cars. Also, try adding more coolant to the radiator (not water or a mixture of coolant & water, but straight coolant) to help with the temps on the motor.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually Newman, distilled water and coolant (50/50) or distilled water with coolant will run cooler than just straight coolant.

I would recommend you switch to that being it's summer as well.

ERA

Yeah, I concur there, 50/50 mix with distilled water, never straight coolant. How bout the radiator? I know he's not using the civic radiator to cool that beast... tell me I'm right... if not.. there's a biggie. Just some thoughts. Good Luck

Hondaaccordvtec

How about the ECT sensor located on the head below the distributor?

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaaccordvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about the ECT sensor located on the head below the distributor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

That just sends to your gauge cluster what the temperature is. You sure you're not leaking any coolant correct?

What you mean 'running like ***'? Just bogging, no power or wha?

Are you over heating?

Newman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually Newman, distilled water and coolant (50/50) or distilled water with coolant will run cooler than just straight coolant.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bah.... foiled again! Heh, thanks for the clear up.... damn So Cal muggy weather getting to me .

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bah.... foiled again! Heh, thanks for the clear up.... damn So Cal muggy weather getting to me
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. it's cool bro

jdmcivicferio

The car is running a type r radiator, 50/50 coolant mix, and the temperature gauge is showing normal. It's basically when the car gets into "warm up" mode, it just bogs really hard, it's got new plugs, wires, distributor cap/ rotor etc. It's still boggling my mind what it could be, but problems like this its usally something stupid thats just under your nose. but I can't figure it out....

Jason kiDD

Well first of all if you are getting a CEL code then the engine is not running properly.. AND LIKE I HAVE SAID IN YOUR OTHER POST, code 20 which is ELD, usually has to do with the engine not being grounded properly. This will make it run like *** no matter what temperature it is at.. Make sure you have all the properly ground points (one at vavle cover on drivers side, near or by starter, and one by the thermostat). If not then it will continue to run like that until you fix the problem..

jdmcivicferio

all the grounds are there, but it runs perfect when just "in start up" mode, for those 10 mins it drives like a h22, but then when the temperature gets to about half way it starts to bog

Jason kiDD

I would recheck them again. There should be no reason you are getting and ELD code.. Did you clear the ECU??

asubennett

How many degrees BTDC timing is yor car set at? This could lead to the bogging effect.

Jonathan_ED3

Good point about the timing.

AAB CUSTOMS

your iab isnt probbaly hooked up right since its not a h22a in a prelude, its set up in a civic. check to see if your iab is working right. if not u can probably have it closed but wide openw hen u tapt he gas and leads to boggy at low speed till u reaches v tec

AAB CUSTOMS

another thing is we just put a h22a in a si lude. the motor came form japan but also has a lil noise to it, the noise came fromt he water pump. this after it warms up and gets hot makes the car drives liek crap and u can feel the pistions gettign tighter along the wall makign your car run so slow. check to see if your water pump is making noise or its gone and also check thermosat

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car is running a type r radiator, 50/50 coolant mix, and the temperature gauge is showing normal. It's basically when the car gets into "warm up" mode, it just bogs really hard, it's got new plugs, wires, distributor cap/ rotor etc. It's still boggling my mind what it could be, but problems like this its usally something stupid thats just under your nose. but I can't figure it out....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have any CEL's? Usually if you do not have the O2 sensor or IAT, MAP or TPS not wired or working properly, this causes major bogging.

I even had a situation where the MAP sensor was working fine, but had some crap inbetween the runner line where the throttle body bolts up to the intake manifold, and the MAP sensor was not getting correct readings -- causing shitty idle and bogging, while NOT throwing the CEL.

Just like the O2 sensor. It may not be throwing the CEL for the O2 or the MAP, but the wiring could possibly be wrong, or the sensor may be bad w/o throwing a CEL.

I just found out my O2 sensor wiring is not wired up right when I swapped the H22 from my EX to my VX now, due to the VX shock tower O2 wiring being different, even when using the EX engine harness. This was causing a 'bog' between 2000-3000 RPM.

You also might want to clean the throttle body/intake manifold, AS WELL as clean the fuel injectors.

Simply take them out the fuel injectors, and see if there is any crap or carbon buildup on them.

HTH.

StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bah.... foiled again! Heh, thanks for the clear up.... damn So Cal muggy weather getting to me .
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Muggy? I can't remember the last time I felt true, East Coast/Midwest/Gulf Coast-style humidity here in California.

jdmcivicferio

waterpump was changed, timing belt was changed, haven't done thermostat yet. As I stated before it is just throwing code 20 electronic load detector. But the car when hot will run fine in vtec, but from 1000-4000 bogs and has no torque, the iabs are left open because the sensor did not work.

fastwanabe

good topic... I'm actually in the mist of finding out why my motor has had a bogging issue lately. I just thought it was bad gas but its been going on for a week now. It feels as though upon throttle tip-in it stutters quickly and slightly and clears up @ WOT or 4k rpms or higher. Also I went to the track the other day and I am down on power since my best et was a 14.2@95MPH. I really pay no mind to the 1/4 time but my 95mph is an indication that something is very wrong.

poison

What's funny to is my motor feels like it's lost power as well.

I mainly think it's probably because I'm now running the O2 code 1 since I transferred it to the VX, and probably running rich or something.

Very annoying when it happens.

Did you change anything fastwanabe since the last run ?

fastwanabe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you change anything fastwanabe since the last run ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well... the only thing are the tires. I went from a 205/40/16 to a 215/45/16. I knew it would cost my a few MPH... but 5.... DAMN. I havent hit 100mph since I've had these tires put on, the closest was 99.3. I dunno I did carry more fuel than usual and its been very muggy out lately and my air filter is dirty and I did bang my stock header... again, but I didnt think it would be that slow. OH. BTW h22 guys watch out for the srt4's at the track the ones around here are woppin most Hondas asses.

ERA

Hey, try this.... bet it works..... Take off the intake tube and start the car with open throttle body... once it get warm, use carb cleaner with the extender nozzle and spray the **** out of the IM all over the place paying particular attention to where the vacuums and **** are connected. We had a civic with the same symptoms, no cel just bogg like hell when we hit the gas when warm only. All it was was a dirty IM, something clogged up a little that carb cleaner took car off. Let me know if this works... i am curious.

poison

Damn stock turbo's