Pikachu

Ok, I noticed this was never really discussed but here I go. With the Place Racing kit, I cannot use my JDM headlights with it, it hits the alternator on the driver side. However, it will clear it with denji's though.

I'm thinking of changing my denji's with TYC one piece headlights but does anyone have a pic of them side by side? I want to see if the back part is identical to the denji's. If so, I can fit them without problems. Thanks!

hondaZvic

hmm.. i sorta had this issue....

i have place mounts also.. and my drivers light i had to trim about an 1/8th of an inch off of my headlight so that it would not rub my alternator belt....

that prolly doesnt help u.. but thats my $.02

Pikachu

I did with mine as well. In EG's you have to cut even more. I hope someone has a pair of TYC's and denji's so i can see the rear of it. Hope it clears with them.

Actually if there's a bracket that brings the alternator closer to the motor, that would give it more headlight clearance.

Pikachu

Bump cuz I wanna know.

Pikachu

TTT

cccya

i had no problems with the projectors that i had, and i had some more room, just passed the alt. do you have a pic???

94 ex with place racing, and h22

never seen a side by side of projectors vs jdm lights

what car is this in also???

BTW: place racing= just my .02

hondaZvic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cccya &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW: place racing= just my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>

slamed93si

i had to trim mine also i was pissed i had the denji then i got the tyc single piece and when i put them in i had to cut the tycs also

Pikachu

Yup, Place racing sucks! slamed93si, how much did you trim and can you show me a pic of how much u cut off? The denji's had to be trimmed very little but if the TYC's fit with minor trims then I wouldn't mind getting them. Post some pics so I have an idea of how much to cut. If I have to cut a sizable portion, I'll have to find some other alternative. Thanks.

Newman

Kind of a small picture (I have larger ones and different angles of that same one) but that's with the JDM EG headlight and the HCP mounts. Plenty or room for the stock Prelude belt. With the US EG headlight, there's even more room.

cccya

have you tried getting a smaller belt. might give you more clearance.

BTW i had a NAPA belt on mine.

Pikachu

It's actually not the belt, it's the actual alternator. If there's a bracket that brings it just a bit closer to the motor, it would be ideal.

Sobe_Death

i think he means get a smaller belt so you can move the alternator closer to the engine and away from the headlight.

Pikachu

Ok, that's not a problem but is there a bracket that I can use to bring the alternator closer to the motor? I might end up using HCP mounts to solve this completely but for now, I'd like a workaround.

KENLUDE97

iTrader: (1)

Ok how much are they interfearing? .06" or 3"? If it is just a fraction of a ince then just get a "Shorter" belt which will draw the Alt closer to the motor giving you the clearence. I don't think that i would jump to a new set of mounts right yet.
Knowing the ammount of interfearance will help us help you.

Newman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KENLUDE97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is just a fraction of a ince then just get a "Shorter" belt which will draw the Alt closer to the motor giving you the clearence. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The problem he's having is that on a H22A, the alternator does not swivel on a bracket, like the B & D-series alternators on the back of those blocks. Therefore, getting a "shorter" belt will not do much as the H22A alternator is set in position, bit is able to move only up or down to tighten the belt, not closer & further away from the motor on a pivot point. So even getting a shorter alternator belt, that would only allow you to lower the alternator slightly in order to make it work, but the pulley itself would still be out infront touching the headlight housing. Doubt you can lower it enough to clear the headlight housing all together, but that's the problem he has there. You can either A) trim your JDM headlight housing, B) use the USDM headlight housing, or C) get a different mount kit.

Pikachu

If I were to change mounts from the place racing ones to HCP ones, will there be any problems or modifications by doing that? I suppose it sets the motor back a few inches.

This One

get a smaller belt, mine works fine
I got a smaller belt to bring it in more
I think on the tensioner you can replace it with a normal straight bolt and use a pry bar to tighten the belt and then tighten the belt if that thing wont give you enough adjustment


not the best pics of it,but you get the idea you can move the alernator closer tothemotor by doing that. I dont jnow how much smaller mine is but there is still room to get a smaler one

Pikachu

That's exactly what I'm looking for! Tell me how to do that and where to get those parts! My car's getting a turbo as well so it's almost identical with ur setup.

This One

From what i remeber the H22's use the two bolts on the bottom of the alternator that work as an adjuster right?
take that **** off... ang get a straight bolt/nut and use that
get smaller belt and throw it on, to tighetn it up use a pry bar in between the alternator/block to pry it tight and tighten up your bolt.... done

Pikachu

Where can you get that smaller belt? Part #'s would be helpful as well. Thanks!

This One

I can check the part number for you later.
But go to the store and tell them you want a smaller belt from the factory size..
If you running just an alternator and no AC then you need the part number because most places dont list the Alternator number...
I;ll get it for you in a bit

I wonder why that pic isnt working

Pikachu

Also what do u mean by pry it closer? I'm a bit lost about what that means. I can get the straight bolt from home depot but prying it closer? Need more clarification on that. Also, I'm running an identical setup so no AC.

This One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pikachu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also what do u mean by pry it closer? I'm a bit lost about what that means. I can get the straight bolt from home depot but prying it closer? Need more clarification on that. Also, I'm running an identical setup so no AC. </TD></TR></TABLE>

u dont pry anyhting closer, you pry on the alternator to tighten the belt before u tighten the belt. U will be prying it away from the motor to tighten the belt, just like on a b-series or d-series alternator. you can get a bolt from a d or b series setup and it will work well because it has a tooth on it to keep the bolt from moving when your tightening it.
Just use a straight bolt instaed of the stock tightener contraption.
I am talking about the lower bolt, not the top bolt

Pikachu

Did you get the part number? I need it so I can get the one I need. Thanks.