KENLUDE97

iTrader: (1)

Ok i took H22EKTIMS car out for a spin last night. Everyone says that the combo is SOO fast. Or is that just from going D16 to H22? Now should it feel A LOT faster than the 5th gen lude that i drive everyday? I would think that it should? Being lighter? And the JDM H
It does not feel like VTEC is engaging? Now the Engine is up to temp and there is plenty of oil. The car runs all the way to redline as well. So that seams to say that the car "IS" in VTEC, casue if it does not engage then you only rev to ~6k. I don't feel the "slap" in the @$$ that i get in My car. The compression test on the car turned out GREAT! so its up on compression. Oh yea it is a JDM H22. Is that gonna make any difference in feeling?
Anythoughts would be GREAT!!

Ps. It is throwing one code. and that is for the egr...


[Modified by KENLUDE97, 7:46 AM 1/7/2003]


[Modified by KENLUDE97, 7:46 AM 1/7/2003]

EK22Tim

see, it seems to me that VTEC IS engaging, just too low? Like ~5100. Maybe the extra runners aren't opening up? Also, I have a vacuum leak. it idles like a champ with it leaking, and wit hit sealed up, it shudders like crazy, so I left it off! I know, its bad, but would that affect performance? please let me know guys..

Jason kiDD

Where is the vacumn leak at?? And what ECU using?

EK22Tim

One of the vac line nipples is not capped off. The one on the very end above the IAT sensor. If that is capped, it won't idle at all.. won't even TRY, and if it's open, idles like a champ. I'm wondering if that's some of my performance woes??
*Edit* JDM P13. /*Edit*


[Modified by EK22Tim, 9:52 PM 1/7/2003]

Jason kiDD

Well it is kinda hard to tell from your description. Sounds like its the vacumn line for the FPR.. I guess I would have to actually see the car to diagnose anything. But you arent that far if you have time once it warms up!!

fastwanabe

make sure you're secondaires are opening up, then you would hear vtec kick in like a ****.

poison

Ya, sounds like the FPR vacuum line or one of the EGR vacuum lines.

Take a picture of your engine bay, that will talk a million words.

bryant

face it H22's are slow

Timmayeg

yea SoHc OwNz JoO!!!

in my h22a powered CX you couldnt hear Vtec unless i was running open exhaust, even with open filter i coulndt hear ****, compared to my old b16a anyway-should of kept that damn car, wish i would of never done my h22a civic project

KENLUDE97

iTrader: (1)

Now how do i check to see if the secondaries are opening? Cause VTEC does not actuate(sp) unless the system is under load.
Ok here is the best pic that i have. For now. I will get better pics of the intake system later. Seeing how it is not my car

Edit this is the smaller pic but still the same pic though...



[Modified by KENLUDE97, 7:38 AM 1/8/2003]

Jason kiDD

Jason kiDD

And it doesnt even look like your map sensor is hooked up at all. Nor EVAP canister, because you have both ports capped off on the throttle body..

misledyouth

the secondaries should be opening cause iv there is no vacume or if the are not hooked up they'll stay open. not closed.
in second gear my h22 would kinda push me back in the seat a little, you couln't hear it but you could feel it.

post up a pic of the vacume lines and i'll tell you what to cap and what not to. i had the same problem.

jesse

KENLUDE97

iTrader: (1)

Yea i know what the changeover should feel like. I drive a Lude everyday...? Just doesn't seam as strong...
I will take pic's thanks!! As soon as i have them i will post them! THANKS!

KENLUDE97

iTrader: (1)

ok but the car is not throwing a code? Wouldn't it if the map sensor was not hooked up?
And what is the "EVAP" ?

Jason kiDD

What I would do is take out the backup battery in the fuse box in the engine bay to reset the ecu then look for codes again. And EVAP is the purge canister (black) that is usually located on th firewall..

MPower332TI

I think what jason kidd there is trying to say is the vacum for the map is in the wrong spot. If it is indeed in the wrong spot it wont throw a code but will run poorly. The map sensor vacum should be on the front of the throttle body. Also to me it sounds like your vtec is not engaging. I can here my very well no matter what. You might wanna test you vtec solonoid and all the wiring. Also does the car have a stock fuel pump?? If it has a stock pump and all stock fuel system then it doesnt have enough pressure. Also are you sure that the injector resistor box is all wired up right??? The hatch with a stock jdm H22 should be a good 14 flat second car. If it doesnt feel that strong then something is up..Good luck. Oh yeah and is it a stock p13???

EK22Tim

Ok, Lemme chime in here. About the MAP, that's probably, in fact, that's absolutely true, the MAP is NOT hooked up on the front of the throttle body. That would be my fault.. I just took a vac line from the back of the manny and hooked it up. I didn't think it mattered, figured all vac was created equal.
The AIBS, does that need to be hooked anywhere in particular? And the vacuum line that's not capped off started off going to the EVAP stuff. Not the canister, but to the other solenoid that I don't have, causing me to not be able to run my EGR. My resistor box is hooked up correctly, I'm 99% sure. I will redo the MAP and see what happens.
Umm, about the fuel pressure, what kinda pressure do I need exactly? Do I need a FPR and gauge? What brand do you guys recommend?
How can I test the butterflies with the car actually running? to verify they open, I mean?

MPower332TI

As far as the evap stuff i wouldnt worry about that. Doesnt effect performance at all just for emissions and the jdm motors dont use evap **** anyways. Get you map sensor on the right vacum. That should help alot. Also just get yourself a cheap B and M regulator and a B and M guage and give yourself about 35 pounds of pressure. Also did you ever change the fuel filter out??? Also have you set your timing??? It could be way retarded and that would make it kinda weak.. Good luck.

Jason kiDD

Agree with the Turd, but if you are going to get a FPR might as well get a good one. You can find an aeromotive FPR that has a 1:1 ration now for less that $100 bucks. Same quality as AEM but cheaper and it is not an add-on like the B&M one.

As for Fuel pressure I have mine curently set at 38psi and that is with the Walbro fuel pump. When set to 35 car ran really strong however I couldnt really tell if it was leaning out on top because I have nothing to monitor the O2 sensor just yet.
Stock psi on ludes are 42 psi for reference..

EK22Tim

ok. Well, I guess that's the stuff I got into in the first place, right? lol
Anyways, I hit VTEC today, and I could TELL it's VTEC. It was nice.. It yanks ya back in your seat.. Hmm, do P13's learn anything by just driving? What I'm trying to say is do they need time to 'learn' the motor and driving environment? I know my DSM was that way, when you reset the ECM, you had to take time and 'teach' the car the engine and driving style I guess. Anyway, does the P13 work this way?

Jason kiDD

The ECU is always learning everyday. Because conditions of the engine and outside chang everyday. Does it learn your driving habits probably not. It just reads changes in the engine and adjusts.. Since it is now cold outside it is probably setup for maximum performance because you are getting the coldest air right now. But just take your time and get all the bugs worked out and trust me you will be more than pleased with the setup..

EK22Tim

thanks, Jason! you guys are awesome. I think Kenlude is going to my place to take pics of the engine bay here at lunchtime, we shall see. I am having some MAJOR vibratoin issues that just cropped up about 80 miles into driving it. It just vibrates like crazy when driving! Only when moving though. I fear it's driveshafts.. That seems to be the big issue with these swaps. So, I drove the battletank daily driver today and left the babe in the garage till I can look at it friday. It shakes when you are just moving along, not when accelerating so much, and a LOT when I hit the brakes. I am almost 100% sure it's not rotors. This is more of a CLUNK sound over and over. almost like you're hitting those rumble strips on the highway.. Anyone got thoughts here? I'm using the accord int shaft with 91 Teg axles. I have the HCP mount kit with front mount included.. I HOPE these bugs get worked out soon. I miss driving it already.

Jason kiDD

I know that clunking noise. Which means your car is probably dropped some. See if you ca tell which side of the car it is coming from then I can make suggestions from there. Drive slowly and see which direction the steering wheel turns to by itself. Also do left and right turn tests to see if the clunking is more noticable on either side.. Then let me know..

EK22Tim

Jason,
When I tried these tests with Kenlude, we concluded it was the passenger side doing all the moving. Any ideas?