gearhead313

this is PISSING me off. I sure hope someone here can help me on this:

EG9 ferio w/ h22a. Using a RHD P30 harness to a chipped P28 (chip from xenocron with h22a base map).

After I reset everything, leave it sit over night, i turn the key on, it does the CEL on then off with the fuel pump, then after a second it comes on straight. NOT even cranked yet!

Codes are 1 and 14. Code 1 is the o2, so i replaced the sensor. Did nothing, same thing. Checked the continuity of the leads from the sensor all the way to the ecu pins. All 4 are in the right spot and going to the right pin on the ecu. WTF!

Next, code 14. IACV/EACV problem. if you plug the iacv in, it wants to rev to the moon (but does the fast surge) and sounds like it sucking in a TON of air, aka. wide open iacv. if you unplug it though, it will idle low, but fine. SO, I take the iacv out of a running accord i have sitting around and replace it. NO change at all. So, i check the leads, yellow/black goes right to the junction and has power. Blue with a yellow goes right to the ecu in the correct spot. All leads are good after checking continuity from the plug to the ecu. WTF!@!!@#!!


So my only guess is that the ecu is bad, but with only these problems its odd...leading me to believe the chipping process screwed it up. Then, i would like to run it on a P13, but i have NONE of the other circuits to complete it, like EGR, knock, secondary's, and EVAP. I've worked 2 days straight on this and im about to cry. ANYONE with help please lend a hand. If anyone has a P13 or a good p28 let me know, i'll have cash for it to try. Thanks guys.


Modified by gearhead313 at 11:51 AM 10/28/2005

IHateJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gearhead313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So my only guess is that the ecu is bad, but with only these problems its odd...leading me to believe the chipping process screwed it up. Then, i would like to run it on a P13, but i have NONE of the other circuits to complete it, like EGR, knock, secondary's, and EVAP. I've worked 2 days straight on this and im about to cry. ANYONE with help please lend a hand. If anyone has a P13 or a good p28 let me know, i'll have cash for it to try. Thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It could be the rom on the chip itself. Sometimes they don't burn right (from experience). Other than that, if you can find a p13, egr and knock will throw codes, but IAB's and EVAP dont (not hooked up in mine without a prob.)

Dueceification

Yeh defintly i've had a couple mis burns. If you can get a stock p28 just to try to plug it in try that and see if throws a code if so send that ecu back or just have them burn you a new chip.

gearhead313

I have a line on a p13, so I'll try to use that to run the car and save the p28 for something else if its still good.

How would a virgin p28 run on an h22? Well enough to do diagnosis?

v4lu3s

jsut abotu ANY honda ecu will work well enough to plug it in and idle.

gearhead313

I might have mentioned that its cammed up a little and about 12:1. I wouldn't thing it would have much effect at all on it though...

Still waiting on this p13.


We were actually driving this and discovered some more, slightly interesting things. First, I dont even ahve the IACV plugged in, i have the idle screw and the hard idle set around 1000rpm. Well, we drove it for a while and it was idling pretty nice. All of the sudden when you'd come to a stop, it would die. It was way too low. Now whats controlling the idle here? It was mad weird.

So we drove it like that for a little while longer and then all the sudden the check engine light blinked and it started to idle prefect again. THIS time though, it was hard limited at 4500rpm.... what i usually thought was some kinda limp home/major issue problem. I'm not sure exactly what it is.

Well after probably a mile it jumped again, started revving past that and had the weird lower idle back. For that second though that the light was off, it seemed amazingly smooth. It seems like some intermittent problem thats going to drive me up the wall.

So tell me what you think about that....

ZedEx

You know, my D16Z6 did the same thing after we unistalled my ITB's, and went back to normal Intake Manifold.

Turns out, we had a crack on the Manifold, that was causing it to suck it unbridled air. It was idling at 4,000RPM. If I unplugged the IACV, it did it's surge at 1,000-2,000RPM.

Check your Intake Manifold Gasket, check your Throttle Body Gasket, check for ANY possible way that air could be getting in after the Throttle Body.

That's what it sounds like to me.

gearhead313

rock on, i'll have another look at it.

ZedEx

Good test... Spray Starter Fluid onto where the Intake Manifold meets the Head, if you can hear the idle change, that means your leak is on the point that you sprayed.

Try that on the Gasket points.

gearhead313

I'll probably try that too.

The only thing is that I've since left that idle air control unplugged and set the idle at 1000rpm. Now with a few more miles, an intermitent problem has come up where it will idle fine and run fine, then all the sudden without letting you know it will idle very low, if at all, and stall everytime. When its like this the car runs different. More rough than before. That just leads me to believe that its not a vacuum leak.

I'll probably mess with it totday or tomorrow so we'll c.

gearhead313

I'm TTT'n this...


I STILL have the code 1!!!!!!!. I've put 2 o2 sensors in it and no difference. I did find the signal and ground wire switched in the connector (engine side) and thought that would have fixed it.

Now, did i fry something by having it like that? this is the 2nd new sensor after that. could it be in the ecu? I run the flow charts in the service manual and get "replace o2"... I REALLY don't want to put another one in it!!! HELP!

locash

You sure you didn't swap the plugs for the IAT and the IACV, as those would give you a code 10 (long single flash, commonly confused with a code 1) and the code 14? What are the wire colors on the plugs?

gearhead313

you know what man, that is an excellent point. The code flash is a long flash and not a short one, which would mean a code 10. wow...i sure hope this is right.


I just went out and checked it and the IAT has the red/yellow and a green/white going to it, which in my P30 RHD harness, should be correct. THe iacv also has the correct blue/yellow and yellow/blk.

I'll run the diagnosis for code 10 and see where that gives me.

locash

You may also want to pull the IAT out of the manifold and look at the end of it, as when people mistakenly plug the purge or IACV plugs into the IAT and key the ignition on, it applies voltage to the IAT and melts it, usually evident by the tip of the IAT being enlarged..

Hope this helps..

gearhead313

I appriciate it. Everything is hooked up fine, but when I whipped out my honda service manual and did the diagnosis for a code 10... jumped the IAT to check for impedence and nothing. I'll get one today or tomorrow and see if everything is happy again

Katman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may also want to pull the IAT out of the manifold and look at the end of it, as when people mistakenly plug the purge or IACV plugs into the IAT and key the ignition on, it applies voltage to the IAT and melts it, usually evident by the tip of the IAT being enlarged..

Hope this helps..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey that happened in Blacksheep

gearhead313

yep, he's the man. Check it out.