h22 in eg issue please help!
03-06-2007, 03:47 PM
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h22 in eg issue please help!
EDITED!!!
Today driving down the interstate at about maybe.. 4k in 5th gear my car starts cutting out and in or "trailerhitching" just like it was before when my TPS went bad. I just installed the used TPS yesterday, set closed voltage to .45v and tightened it and rechecked it. MIL light went off and everything was kosher. But not anymore, anyways I got to messing with it and thought about just unplugging it and letting it run from the calculations from the MAP sensor. I does throw a MIL light but car runs great, idles at 900-1000rpm instead of like 7-8k but I'm not worried about. How long will this hold up? I want to buy a new TPS without going to Honda, are their any companies that make an aftermarket TPS for the H22 throttle body. I'm in a bind. What other things could cause the TPS to cut out like that? BTW it was giving me a CODE 7 OBD-1. Thanks! Any Suggestions are sweet.
ORIGINAL POST BELOW...
I found a bunch of outdated info and arguments so I figured I would ask before I buy. My rear T mount broke and caused my engine to "torque" in the engine bay thus cracking my tps against the firewall. Its the jdm type s motor, it has hex screws holding the tps on. I have heard from so that the tps will work from just about any honda. Is that so? Even Accord and Preludes from the early 90's like for say the bastard b series "b21a1" or some of the early 90's accord with F series? I need some confirmation. Thanks I will continue my search.
Modified by p00n at 7:07 PM 3/8/2007
Modified by p00n at 7:07 PM 3/8/2007
Today driving down the interstate at about maybe.. 4k in 5th gear my car starts cutting out and in or "trailerhitching" just like it was before when my TPS went bad. I just installed the used TPS yesterday, set closed voltage to .45v and tightened it and rechecked it. MIL light went off and everything was kosher. But not anymore, anyways I got to messing with it and thought about just unplugging it and letting it run from the calculations from the MAP sensor. I does throw a MIL light but car runs great, idles at 900-1000rpm instead of like 7-8k but I'm not worried about. How long will this hold up? I want to buy a new TPS without going to Honda, are their any companies that make an aftermarket TPS for the H22 throttle body. I'm in a bind. What other things could cause the TPS to cut out like that? BTW it was giving me a CODE 7 OBD-1. Thanks! Any Suggestions are sweet.
ORIGINAL POST BELOW...
I found a bunch of outdated info and arguments so I figured I would ask before I buy. My rear T mount broke and caused my engine to "torque" in the engine bay thus cracking my tps against the firewall. Its the jdm type s motor, it has hex screws holding the tps on. I have heard from so that the tps will work from just about any honda. Is that so? Even Accord and Preludes from the early 90's like for say the bastard b series "b21a1" or some of the early 90's accord with F series? I need some confirmation. Thanks I will continue my search.
Modified by p00n at 7:07 PM 3/8/2007
Modified by p00n at 7:07 PM 3/8/2007
...
03-07-2007, 12:11 PM
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Re: h22 in eg issue please help! (p00n)
did ur fuel filter hit the TPS?...I need to get mine fixed badly...it isnt too bad when driving, but sitting at a light, it bogs down like it wants to die.
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03-07-2007, 03:33 PM
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Re: h22 in eg issue please help! (SAVIOVEGA)
Got mine today, I had to because it wouldn't rev past 2k. So I went to Beaver's Honda Salvage OVE 12'000 units in stock. Located in Mooresville NC. Anyways ended up having to buy a 94 Accord throttle body. And It worked no problem. Thanks for the help.
03-09-2007, 07:02 AM
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I thought you got it worked out. What's the problem now?
**edit** reread the op
OK..I hate run problems. Did you only set the closed voltage. I was under the impression that you had to set closed and WOT voltage for it to be correct. However I've never really had to deal with a TPS problem. TPS's usually don't go bad unless they break. I'd try resetting the voltage, then if that doesn't fix it I'd replace it. Good luck.
**edit** reread the op
OK..I hate run problems. Did you only set the closed voltage. I was under the impression that you had to set closed and WOT voltage for it to be correct. However I've never really had to deal with a TPS problem. TPS's usually don't go bad unless they break. I'd try resetting the voltage, then if that doesn't fix it I'd replace it. Good luck.
03-09-2007, 08:43 AM
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Re: (thehatchninja)
how do you go about setting the voltage?...i pulled mine off any put it back together, since a lil piece fell off. then put it back on...is there something else i should be doing?
03-09-2007, 03:54 PM
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Can only set one voltage. Best is to set closed to .35-.45v closed and 4.5-4.6v WOT. The tps feels like it's cutting out. At certain RPM's since then I have just unplugged it and just drive like that. The computer can still get values from the MAP to determine throttle position. I mean I don't know what else to do. Where can I buy a BRAND NEW tps with out having to buy a whole throttle body? Or does any company make an aftermarket TPS? I wish I didn't have car insurance coming up I'd throw a set of ITB's on. haha
03-11-2007, 07:40 PM
#23
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Re: (jpnucrx)
It's gonna do the same thing again if you do not relocate/bend your brake lines! I have been thru 3 TPS sensors after discovering this and I have not had a problem since.
Do you see those metal lines and a mounting for the brake lines behind the TPS??? Remove the mounting, cut the bolt fittings for the mounting off, bend the lines away from the tps and you're done! Worked for me even with a bad rear mounting which I am still getting fixed...
Do you see those metal lines and a mounting for the brake lines behind the TPS??? Remove the mounting, cut the bolt fittings for the mounting off, bend the lines away from the tps and you're done! Worked for me even with a bad rear mounting which I am still getting fixed...
03-12-2007, 04:31 PM
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I have already fixed that problem...
- Here is what I have concluded today.
- TPS isn't getting a 5v reference... what could cause this. I checked MAP and its getting the right voltage. I am totally lost. I also got a Code 22 vtec pressure switch, I pulled the solemoid and didn't see anything wrong inside. Vtec still works awesome all the way to 8500 rpm so What is the deal with this, is there a fuse?
- Here is what I have concluded today.
- TPS isn't getting a 5v reference... what could cause this. I checked MAP and its getting the right voltage. I am totally lost. I also got a Code 22 vtec pressure switch, I pulled the solemoid and didn't see anything wrong inside. Vtec still works awesome all the way to 8500 rpm so What is the deal with this, is there a fuse?