hondapwred95

i am planning on doing a h22 swap in a eg next spring and was talkin to a guy who told me i should start buy bolt ons to put in before i do the swap, so i want ot know what things should i get that are good to put on right away(try to keep the price low on these parts since the swap is still going to cost 4000 bucks) so far i figure intake and headers since i already have a tanabe racing medallion exhaust. what about cams, clutch, flywheel, hondata ecu, ignition parts?

NXLude

Yeah, get some cams.....you need to play withthe innards to make some real power....Ive had good luck with nitrous too.....H's make great power on the juice

93preludeh22

$4000 is cheap... mymotor cost me $3150 (including axles/mounts) shipped...Then you figure $500 for clutch/fly/pressureplate. Then intake/exhaust/custom cat or test pipe... $700+. Timing belt/waterpump/alternator belt, radiator fan, $400? or so

I just bought my hatch $1750 and motor $3150 last week.. I gotta save up for the rest next month

IHateJDM

definitely get clutch and flywheel so you don't have to drop the tranny after the swap.

Specail Ed

Do the basics first, so you don't have to worry with them later. Water pump, balancer belt and timing belt are a must in my opinion. These items have a 90,000 mile wear time, I think. So starting frest isn't a bad idea. Clutch/flywheel would be next. Your clutch might be fine, but while the motor is out of the car, it's a lot easier to change. Anything else is kind of trivial. The other "bolt ons" can be done relatively easily with the motor in the car.

hondapwred95

ic im thinking about a 6 or 4 puck clutch any recommendations?

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Do the clutch... Flywheel if you want too. I'm running a stock FW though.

Do the timing belt, water pump, balancer while the motor is out. I did mine a few weeks ago with the motor in the car, man... it was a bitch!

VTecLude1994

iTrader: (1)

My H22 was running a Stage2 Exedy Disc with stock flywheel turned down. Great engagement and still not a bitch to drive daily. But, after that I believe a set of cams would be a good idea. You could get some Stage1 Crower's and run them on the stock head probably will no problem. Now when you go to Stage2 most companies recommend some head work.

Specail Ed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondapwred95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ic im thinking about a 6 or 4 puck clutch any recommendations?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, don't bother if you're going to keep it stock. Puck clutches are overkill. I ran an ACT 4 puck for a while. I gave out in less than a year. Any clutch will work fine, but a puck clutch is unnessary if you're not going to throw a lot of power at it.

Adam.C

make sure you change a lot of the gaskets/seals, clutch and flywheel for sure, timing belt, water pump, any headwork you really dont have to do before you drop it in so cams really are not necessary at first unless you got the funds for it.

AudioFuct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran an ACT 4 puck for a while. I gave out in less than a year. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is becoming a very common story with ACT these days. I had an ACT street disc on mine and that **** gave out on me in less than a year as well. I also HATED the engagement on it. Seemed real mushy and weak (and yes it was installed right, smartasses...lol).

Im running an RPS 6 puck now. Been runnin it almost a year now with no problems. Its definently overkill for what im putting down though (191whp NA). But i got such a kick *** deal on it (just had to pay for someones dyno time; 80 dollars worth) that i couldnt pass it up.

But back on topic, RPS (so far) seems like a great brand to go with. The engagement on the 6 puck is a bit grabby but the pedal feel is damn near stock feeling.

AudioFuct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by orangerex04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clutch and flywheel for sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats not entirely true. I would recommend replacing the clutch, for obvious reasons, but the flywheel does not have to be completely replaced. Just resurface it and you should be good to go with that (if you're trying to cut down on cost a bit).

Specail Ed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AudioFuct &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is becoming a very common story with ACT these days. I had an ACT street disc on mine and that **** gave out on me in less than a year as well. I also HATED the engagement on it. Seemed real mushy and weak (and yes it was installed right, smartasses...lol).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really, you too? I had one in my old B18 hatchcrap and loved it. The engagement was harsh, but that thing was awesome. That's why I went with another one for my H. I'm thinking ACT changed something either with their design or composition.

hondapwred95

what about exedy clutches anyone know anything about them? also when ppl are saying the act clutchs gave what do you mean? burn out or snapped whats it mean? Lastly how much will these misc. parts cost like the water pump and alll the little things? i found a "complete gasket kit for the h for like 150 is it worth it i has everythnig supossedly its sold at summit racing

IHateJDM

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...h.jsp

for oem parts. I think I paid $90ish for my water pump. The only gaskets I needed for my swap were the oil pan, valve cover, throttle body gaskets and I got the hondata intake manifold gasket too . I'm sure I got them all for under $150.

Specail Ed

Start with timing belt, balancer belt, and water pump. I'm guessing you'll be in the $200-$300 range. It's worth the money. Replacing the gaskets are pointless, unless you're going to have things ripped apart. Cams seals, maybe, but don't bother with the others. The friction material on my clutch wore so much my clutch was engaging by the rivets holding the friction plates on. It finally let go driving down the highway, and it took both axles in the process.

hondapwred95

ok so im not planning on running over 300 hp on this engine so what clutch would you recommend it will be useed for daily driving which can become very hard at times and will also be used at weekend drag races and the occasional scca event so its got to be a well rounded clutch that will last me for a while what do you ppl recommend for all the details that i have listed?

AudioFuct

Some kind of street disc with some kind of heavy duty pressure plate would be what you would probabley be fine with. Oh and dont bother with that gasket kit, its gonna have more stuff in there then you need. All you really need is what was already posted (oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and maybe the throttle body gasket). I personally didnt need the tb gasket as i didnt take mine off to do my swap (thats right brandon i didnt follow your instructions exactly... eat it!!! lol). The oil pan and valve cover are just 2 good preventative maintenance precautions you should take with the motor swap (along with the clutch, resurfacing the flywheel, timing belt, and water pump).

You need to remember, this is NOT a brand new motor. Its used, so the parts are going to be used as well. Treat it as such and you'll have a great strong running motor for a long time.

skunked

do the manual tensioner conversion, new T-belt and a new clutch while it's out. Other basic tune up parts are a good idea but they can be done later while the motor is in the car.

I have blown up a few ACT's myself

Adam.C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have blown up a few ACT's myself </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont mean to jack a thread here but are all these cases of these ACT's (4&6 puck) breaking because its not made to be streetable? Track only??

93preludeh22

What about ACT flywheels? Are they good?

Thanks

skunked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by orangerex04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dont mean to jack a thread here but are all these cases of these ACT's (4&6 puck) breaking because its not made to be streetable? Track only??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I broke two of the HD pressure plates with my 200whp B sereries setup. ACT was having issues with thier "straps" at the time, they would break prematurely. I got new pressure plates but I had to drop the tranny twice and pay shipping so it was a pain in the ***. This was a street/track car.

93preludeh22

Fidanza flywheel or ACT flywheel? (lightweight)

93preludeh22

I was thinking Exedy organic clutch/PP and Act prolite 8.8lb flywheel &lt;- $500 on prostreetonline.com as a kit

AudioFuct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93preludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fidanza flywheel or ACT flywheel? (lightweight)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im runnin fidanza 8lb flywheel with zero problems.