Hooonigan

Got a 96 EK Hatch and trying to figure out what is the best way to go for 1/4 drags. Understand H2B has quick gears but what about a fully built H22A?

Also saw this ..
h22 PROS: motor drops right in with correct mounts
use oem honda cv axles 200whp rated :-(
cons: cut center consol for fitment of the shift cables.

h2b Pros: no cutting of the shift linkage
axle are more straight
cons: eg has to use hood spacers to the motor angle
notch frame do to the motor angle
belt size

But cutting don't matter, just need to figure out what is the better way to go.

White_EG1

So your gonna leave the h2b stock? If so I'd go that route. So in sense I would pick the shorter gearing, if your on a budget do h2b now and then build the motor within time. Also the h trannys on those motors never show it's full potential.

Hooonigan

No budget for money, and whatever way I go, I'm going to fully rebuild it.

scottcraft

In my opinion h2b is better. From what I read the b series transmissions are better plus there's no need to cut the transmission tunnel which would make it difficult to go back to factory if you wanted to later. As a side note I've read some really good things about the h23a bluetop versus the h22.

moonphysics

I have a H2B H23 blue top setup in my EG and I love it. I'd definitely recommend it. Even if you don't want to go with the blue top I'd still recommend H2B. The frame rail modification you have to do really isn't that bad. The hood spacing is kind of a bummer, but being able to use Integra axles is cool since they're really easy to find. There are also plenty of companies making stronger aftermarket replacements. Being able to use the stock B series shift linkage is also really nice. It's a lot less work than cutting a new hole and mounting the H series shifter. If you're only building it to race then try to find a B16 transmission. If you're going to daily drive it I'd go with an LS tranny.

scottcraft

I've got an em1 that I want to go h2b with using the h23a bluetop. I've read a lot of good things about the power that can be gotten out of the h23 without going into the block.

Dorkenheimer

You don't have to notch the frame if you do the right mods. At least that's what I've read once or twice. I see many have "massaged" their frame rail in a bit for fitment, but I've read about with the right combo of parts you don't have to bang frame at all. Which is what I'm going for. Deleting the balance shafts and scooting the alt over 1/2" is a must though. I've gotten all my information from this forum so far. Stop by the H2B discussion thread, there are some good people who will help you in there.

soloturbo

just go bseries .. way better feel and performance unless your going to build the trans( custom gears and things...

Dorkenheimer

Excuse me, my last post was referring to an EG chassis. OP if you have an EK, you shouldn't have to do anything to the frame. Remember this....H2B EF's you have barely any room (major hood spacing, probably frame rail stuff, EG's "fit" (hood spacing, might get away with not touching the frame rail), and EK's you can actually close the hood (no spacing, no frame rail stuff). Also, keep in mind you should always do your own research as I could always be wrong haha.

moonphysics

I have no experience with the EK but I've also heard that you can get away without any frame modifications. Makes sense to me. On my EG I machined down my crank pulley and barely pounded in my frame rail with a sludge hammer, maybe 1/4 inch or so, and everything fit fine. If you run H2B with a machined down, or aftermarket crank pulley I'd imagine it'd fit in just fine since the EK supposedly has a little more room.

snobordboy

<p>If you are &quot;fully&quot; building either setup, it would come down to the already mentioned issues of hood spacing, frame clearance, and alternator pulley and crank pulley spacing.</p><p>Plus, a big factor with the H2B is oil level in the pan. Either get one of the special H2B oil pan setups, or deal with having an incorrect dipstick, and the oil pickup not being in quite the same spot in regards to the oil in the pan since the angle is different.</p><p>And the big deal with drag racing application will be the aftermarket parts availability for the B series trans, and using solid linkage as opposed to shift cables.</p><p>Many people don't like the cables, but they can be set up well, and with the new k series adapter stuff on the market, even better.</p><p>For the parts of the trans, there are many more options for the B, but some people are working on gearsets for the H from Albins, etc. There are cuffs that can be used, and things like that as well, but you are talking the realm of 600+ WHP car needs there as well.</p><p>For big drag use, you are probably looking at a Comp Clutch twin, they make it for the H or H2B, so no worries there.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

Having owned a full H22 swap and now a full B-series swap, if I were to merge the two and create an H2B setup I would. The cable shifter mechanism on the H-series is horrendous IMO.

H/F-series long block, off the shelf internals, sleeved block, KS-Tuned everything, QSD H2B kit, a twin disc, and a really nice short ratio LSD B-Series tranny would be a monster at the track.

Hood spacing, ground clearance, and 'frame rail massages' can all be dealt with easily now.

Bently_Coop

If you stick with the H Series look into either a Hybrid Racing or Ktuned shifter setup. One of them has a conversion kit for H22.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Can I suggest a GSR trans and not a LS trans? I saw the LS mentioned in this thread and I think that is a nightmare for a NA car. The B16 trans may run out of gear pretty quick if you start building the motor and the GSR trans would end up being a pretty solid gearing choice.

I'd go H2B by the way.

Hooonigan

I plan on going H2B with the Gsr tranny and the k tuned shifter.

moonphysics

I'm curious as to why you say an LS tranny would be be a nightmare. I have an LS on my H23 blue top and I like it, but I would also like to get a GSR trans to try out at some point.

MOCrxHf

LS crazy long imo. I have a t2w4 with a 5.1 final and it hits the spot.

scottcraft

Is the gsr gearing better for an h2b than the s4c that came in my em1? My b20vtec loves that short gearing, but is it too short for an h-series?

hybridmiklo

i am h2b currently in my del slow. With a h22a and some pro 1 cams I put out 232 hp and 160tq. totally fun to mob around in. But now I am boosted. Straight skating on ice. H2b is too much fun.

gmcuajo1

It all depends on what you will do with it. A lot of the high hp's all motors doing ~10s on the 1/4 mile, the S4C gearing is too short and they hit the red line before end the track. That with b-series motors.

If you have it, try it and see how it works for your set up. It isn't matter of what motor you have, is how much hp and the mph you do the 1/4.

Speaking about the h2b, it probably have more torq than b-series, so holding that into ground with shorter gears will be challenge

scottcraft

Thanks! Before I start buying parts I plan on rebuilding my transmission and adding a limited slip, so I'll try to research on the preferred gearing for an h2b swap.

gmcuajo1

The S4C gearing from 99-00 SI or del Sol vtec is great for B16 buut for B18 or H2B will be too short.

But again, try it and post your result as you already have it.

gmcuajo1

If am been able to have my own gearing, I will have longer 1st, then from 2nd will another story.

Had a 2001 civic with d17 (the worst d series) but 60hp nitrous in 1/4 and from 2nd had the best of 2 woflds. The best launch and the best rest of the 1/4 mile track.

When the high hp cars were able to catch, there was no more track...

scottcraft

Thanks for the info! My transmission could use a rebuild, so I'll probably look for a gsr transmission. Before this discussion I had thought about the gearing because the H series doesn't rev as high as my B series and the S4C is great for keeping the rpms up.