dutchaccord

Were currently building an AWD Civic EG using a wagovan tranny and fully built D16Y8 bottom/D16z6 head GT28/40. I know the AWD tranny isn't going to like this very much So i want to reinforce the casing so it doesn't rip, but then I'd have to know what actually causes the tranny casing to rip.
Please post pictures of broken trannies, and the cause of them failing. This way i can hopefully fix this problem and help all of us out. (and probably cause the tranny to fail on another point :/ lol) Searching around for good pictures only got me the same picture over and over.

specs of the engine
GE sleeved
SRP 9:1
Eagle
ACL race bearings
Skunk valves springs retainers
Crower stage II cam
Gt28/40 .82 a/r
eCtuned

dynamoracing87

Pics of the car? good start with those parts.

JDM JEFFREY

iTrader: (1)

X2^
let see the car

dutchaccord

The car is still under construction, the rear dif is mocked up and we are having some issues with drive shaft length on the passenger side (right front) the shaft is 3cm too short.... weird.
We still have to fabricate the tranny mount and started on the timingbelt side with the stock eg mount.

Going to be driven on a dirt track, and is completely stripped.

No pictures yet... ill post some asap

solsurvivor

Nice project, You've already spent a great deal on parts ,otherwise you'd have been better off getting a 97 crv setup with B20 and awd tranny, made her into a B20 vtec or B16 awd civic...stronger setup..tranny wise

Have you already started building the rear setup/trailingarms? curious as to how you solved it..

Mooi project hoor! ben benieuwd naar je diff/draagarm setup.

Gr

Randall

dutchaccord

Yeah, I know.. we originally wanted to build a 2wd car, but that changed rather late in the project. If the tranny problem persists we can always switch back to 2wd. If I had to do it all again i would def build a B20 w crv tranny. ( i can always build an adapter plate to mate the crv tranny to the D16)

We solved the trailing arm problem by simply using the front part of the EG arm and rear part of the Wagovan arm. The difference in profile was solved by welding a steel plate in between the 2. We do still need to box them, but that will be done after test fitting.
Not as fancy as you solved your arms, but hey, its a dirt racer (voor de cross jah)

dutchaccord

Took apart a spare wagovan tranny...













Will add text soon...

solsurvivor

Nice! did you know there are quite a lot of oem tools needed to properly set and shim the secondary take-off for the rear wheel drive?

Jaker

Could you do me a huge favor? I'm building mine as a RWD, and need to determine what speed the driveshaft will turn. Could you count some gear teeth for me? I'd like to know the tooth count on the bevel gears in the transfer case (90 degee drive box for rear drive, I suspect it will be 1:1) as well as the tooth count of the ring gear that drives the helical gear attached to the bevel gears and the driven helical gear as well. Basically, I am trying to determine how many revolutions the driveshaft will make for every revolution of the front differential.

I am also going to remove as much of the transmission internals as possible to reduce the weight over the front wheels. Super Low gear - bye-bye, spider gears in front differential - bye-bye, and I may even take one of my 3 transmissions and remove 4th and 5th gear, as I autocross the car, and when I travel for SCCA National events, the car will be trailered, and there is no need for those gears on an autocross course.

If you need any information from the North American Helms Factory Service Manual for the Wagovan, let me know and I can scan and email or post here for you.

Thanks,

Jacques

TunerN00b

Might I recommend removing the rear coupler in the drive shaft and just making the car full time 4WD instead of "RT4WD", since a little rear tire scrub during turns won't be an issue in the dirt and would remove (what I would assume to be) a failure prone part in a higher power build?

Jaker

Just keep in mind that the drive distribution to the rear wheels is not the same RPM as the front wheels. I managed to count the teeth on the ring gear in the picture in my shop manual, and if that number is accurate (it's not, that was crap, look a couple posts below), and the bevel gears are 1:1 ratio (please, please, please), then the rear wheels only turn at 96% (crap, it's actually 99.88%) the rpm of the fronts (front reduction to driveshaft is 2.62 (crap, actually 2.526), and multiplication at the back is only 2.529).

I'll wait to hear from dutchaccord when he has time to do an actual tooth count.

dutchaccord

ill do a teeth count tonight, no problem at all.

Of course the coupler (viscous coupling) will be removed, this does require the rear wheels to have the same rpm as the front wheels, but having them turning slower than the front ones improves the cornering of the car.

I'm going to make a billet (aircraft grade alloy) housing for the transfer case as this is the failing part, it's quit hard to draw in Solidworks but ill get it, it just takes some time....

Who else would like such a stronger housing?


@randall; yeah, i do know that shimming of the transfercase can be a bitch. i'd have to remeasure the lot :/

dutchaccord

@Jaker:



hope this picture answers all your Q's

Jaker

2.526:1 - YES!!!!!. That is awesome. Thank you so much for the effort. I certainly appreciate it. This actually works out better than I'd hoped. I'm calculating my max speed in 2nd gear, which is typically the gear that about 95% of autocross is done in (very little shifting for the most part) and this puts me at 76.8 mph at 9,000 rpm with 24.8" diameter tires, 4.428 FD and 1.950 2nd gear.

Sign me up please!

Looking a little more closely at your pictures, I have found what I consider a new weak spot in the wagovan drivetrain. The setup has the ability to disengage the drive out the transfer case for towing purposes. The piece that does this is that slider collar (synchro sleeve - #1) that is on the shaft that carries the helical and the output bevel gear (#2). The teeth on the helical portion of the drive are quite small (#3). I wonder if that will be a point of failure. Especially since the full and total ouput of my 300-325whp/250ftlbs will be going throught that little gear. In my case, I think the best solution will be to weld these 2 pieces together and dispense altogether with the synchro sleeve and shift fork (hey, more weight reduction! )

dutchaccord

To get boost a lil sooner i bought this M45, i also got a pulley and drive of a broken Jacksonracing D series SC. By mating the JR drive to this CLK M45, i will be able to use it on the D16. :D




twincharging ftw

Jaker

User "RMCDaniels" has a lot of experience with twin charger setups on Hondas. Most of it is detailed here on Honda-Tech. Clemsonhatch has his old B series twin charger setup with many recent refinements. I'm sure they'd welcome the opportunity to provide pointers and advice.

dutchaccord

thanks for the info :up: ill check their threads.

Smokinsax

whoa...in to watch this for a while!

dutchaccord

Just ordered the clutch (act HW4-XTG6) and intake (eb performer)

Also the engine is running now, its being broken in as we speak... after that ill build the exhaust manifold and SC bracket. new photos soon!

American.Graffiti

iTrader: (7)

In for the build!

h224thgensedan

Nice work. I remeber seeing a video of a black ef hatch that was made awd. I cant remeber who built it. Ill do some digging around for you. Mabye you can get a hold of them and see what they did to strengthen the trans.

Here you go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qxtf3_IHTfs
Work was done by Epic Tuning. Here is a link to the build thread http://216.120.253.113/epictuning/ga...t_id=41&page=1

Jaker

They did nothing at all. They are running the OEM drivetrain. Just a clutch upgrade.

dutchaccord

this is what im shooting for:

http://media.vankronenburg.nl/2lturbocomp.html

:D

Smokinsax

what an insane vid...

NW Classic Honda

Cool!!!