Alright... I have a RHD '94 Integra with a J32A2 6MT with matching stock ECU. Prior to this swap, I had a turbo B16 with a Rywire harness and P28 with Hondata S300 v.3.

I used the Rywire under-dash harness with my J32 harness, with the GRN/YEL wire from E1 (IMOFPR, Immobilizer/Fuel Pump Relay) on the stock ECU going to the GRN/BLU wire coming from my Integra under-dash harness. I've tested continuity between the two, and am positive it's connected between the two harnesses and ECU. I sent my J32 ECU to Hamotorsports and paid for the immobilizer removal/replacement chip, which is supposed to bypass the immobilizer and allow my fuel pump to turn on. I've even taken the cover off the ECU and verified that the service was done. It was.

What's weird, is when I plug in the Rywire B16 harness into the Rywire under-dash harness and connect the plugs to the P28, my fuel pump turns on fine.

I've even went as far as bypassing the ECU by grounding the main relay wire after removing the GRN/YEL wire from the ECU. The weirdest thing is that when the J32 harness is plugged into the J32 ECU, the ground trick doesn't work, but I do the same with the B16 harness and P28, and it works!

I have two questions then:

1. Is there possibly a wire or ground that I'm missing on my harness (E plug) that isn't allowing the fuel pump or main relay to come on?

2. Is it possible that the FX-01 chip that was soldered in is defective? The company says it tests each ECU before sending them out.

Someone please help! This is the only thing holding me back from starting and driving this car again. Thanks in advance!!!

Ok, I got the fuel pump to prime using the ground trick. I was missing a ground from the main relay in the under-dash harness. I wired that into the PG1 on the ECU (A4) and now the fuel pump primes when I ground the GRN/YEL wire from the relay.

I still ill have the same problem though where the ECU isn't telling the fuel pump to come on.

So... I still have the same questions above, if anyone can provide some insight. Thanks!

I had that problem on my J30 swap, but I had done all of the wiring myself. Turned out that I had drawn the diode backwards in my schematics and wired it with respect to that.

Mine was actually a +12v problem, so I cut and spliced that wire to a +12v in hot and run. Fuel pump primed fine after that. Thank the Lord that was the only wiring problem I had!

My suggestion would be to get the schematics and double check everything in them to be sure everything is wired to energize and ground what it should.

Thanks for the reply!

I did all the J32 to ECU wiring myself with new tefzel wire, new pins and connectors, raychem DR-25, yellow labels and two milspec connectors (one for the injectors, and the other for the main harness into the cab). The only part I reused from the Rywire harness is the under-dash harness, which is simple to recreate, but I used it to save time.

This morning, I pulled the coils and spark plugs, to check spark, and am not getting any. Then I used a flashlight to look down at the top of the piston, and it didn't look wet at all from fuel. Then I smelled the spark plugs and they didn't smell like fuel at all. Which tells me that neither the fuel injectors or the coils are getting a signal from the ECU. I've checked my wiring over and over and everything looks correct.

What ECU did you use, and if it's stock, did it have the immobilizer chip? If so, what'd you do to get passed it?

Thanks again for your reply and help so far!

Got my respect for making your own harness. I’ve made 3 harnesses for B-series, so I know how much time and energy it takes.

Can you hook up a scanner or laptop to it to see if you’re getting cam signal? I had a broke cam sensor wire on my J35A8 in my Odyssey that resulted in that same problem.

I wouldn’t think it would be an immobilizer issue if hamotorsports deleted that mess.

My entire J30A4 swap is from the 2003 Accord EX coupe MT. I don’t have the exact PN in front of me, but that’s it. I got the immobilizer, key, and ECU with my swap. Took a gamble and bought motor, trans, shifter box, cables, engine wire harness, starter, ECU, ignition switch, and key OFF EBAY for like $1500.

So, I just wired in the immobilizer ring and key and crossed my fingers when I hit the ignition switch. Had that main relay issue, but rectified that. Had open headers without the crossover pipe when she fired up...

Here’s a little more advice:

Get an OBD2 data link connector so that you can pull codes. If it’s setting a code for the immobilizer, you should be able to read that. Junkyards and eBay have the connectors. If you can’t read codes and see a datastream, your diagnostics will be shots in the dark.

I check mine every now and then to make sure I’m not setting any codes as my ECU has no output for a CEL — that function was mitigated by the Accord’s instrument cluster module (via CAN communication with the ECU), which module is not present on my EK.