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Fresh built lsv shavings!

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Old 03-18-2014, 04:46 PM
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Default Fresh built lsv shavings!

I have put 260 miles on my fresh built motor... I just did my 2nd oil change and see this on my magnetic drain plug..... Is this normal during break in? Please help me out guys!

Btw, my motor is blowing white smoke, and I also when i did my oil change, it looks like coolant was mixed in with my oil. Can anyone please help me out? Sorry if this was posted in the wrong section!
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:55 PM
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What was your break in method? From what I hear, its best to start it and let it idle till it heat cycles a few times, drain the oil, chamge the filter. Then drive it a bit, rpms below 4000 and do a lot of high vacuum engine breaking, maybe 20min worth of driving to bed the rings in. Then drain the oil one more time, change the filter, then you can go on your normal intervals.

What makes you think coolant was in the oil? If there was enough I could see that trashing bearings as the water would lower the oils lubrication abilities

White smoke is coolant. If its sweet smelling amd looks kind of like clouds.

Blue is oil, but can also look off white to grey


Did you rebuild the engine yourself? Hou may have messed up the engine during assembly
Old 03-19-2014, 03:31 AM
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My machine shop assembled the bottom end for me using acl bearings. I changed the oil after initial startup which was of course 20 mins. I let it idle and after 20 mins i changed the oil.. I then drove it for 20 miles, and did another oil change. My break in method, i revved it up to 5k and let the engine "brake" itself like u stated.. So at 250 miles I did my 3 oil change and see this shaving on my magnetic drain plug which looks like a bearing shaving... Oh btw, when I drained the oil, it didnt even look thick,
It looked like water coming out with oil. I have a feeling that is what is causing this problem. Would i have to tear the motor down again or should i drive it for the next 250 miles and do another oil change to see if I still see any shavings?
Old 03-19-2014, 07:50 AM
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Cmon guys help me out! I know just because I have a low post, nobody wants to help out sigh...
Old 03-19-2014, 04:46 PM
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:51 AM
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Thin oil is just thin looking. Oil when its hot runs really thin vs cold.

Water in the oil makes the oil look like milk chocolate if its a little, and creamy tan when its a lot.
Old 03-20-2014, 10:15 AM
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The car is blowing white smoke after it starts up for 2-3 mins then it goes away afterI drive it. Also, I did a compression test and all 4 numbers were off!
Cyl 1 = 245 psi
Cyl 2 = 180 psi
Cyl 3 = 220 psi
Cyl 4 = 150 psi

Mind you, I am also running a cometic thick hg 0.051" 85mm so that I can drop my c/r to 12.5cr because of the 13cr wiseco pistons. Could this be the culprit on why antifreeze is leaking into my oil pan?
Old 03-20-2014, 10:14 PM
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Well your compression numbers look like crap to be honest. So your rings are either not seating or your head gasket is toast.
Or you messed up doing the compression test.

Did you match the head gasket to the block, or to the head.
Iirc you always get the headgasket for the block you have.
Old 03-21-2014, 05:30 AM
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Yup my bore is 85mm and i got the 85mm head gasket from cometic (0.051" thickness)... I know Im doing the compression test right because I tested it on another civic i have, and i get 180psi going across on it. I put a tea spoon of oil in each cylinder to see if the pressure would go up, but it stayed the same. I did a leak down test on the motor but didnt hear anything from the exhaust and intake side so I know the valves are good. Still have a leak on the leak down test though. What I did hear was air coming out from where the spark plugs is suppose to be at on all 3 other cylinders. I brought each piston to TDC on the cylinder I was working on. I did not see any bubbles with the radiator cap off.. Could this mean that either A. The head is warped (my machine shop checked it and said it was fine) Or B. Its because of the thick head gasket I have? I just received a golden eagle oem 3 layer 85mm and don't know if I should put that on. Let me know plz!
Old 03-21-2014, 09:15 PM
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Default Re: Fresh built lsv shavings!

A headgasket not sealing doesnt put that 3/8" piece of metal on the drain plug...

Something more serious going on here
Old 03-22-2014, 09:02 PM
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Figured out it was a metal shaving from my previous motor inside the oil pan! Luckily nothing was damage on the bottom end! Anyways I changed the head gasket today to the regular oem 3 layer, and no smoke! Ive only put 400 miles on the motor so far, and still get the same compression reading, but the car still pulls! All i have to do now is really dyno tune it. It is street tuned as of right now so i should be alright by keeping an eye on the a/f ratio.
Do I have to drive it to see a better compression reading?
Old 03-22-2014, 10:01 PM
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Default Re: Fresh built lsv shavings!

Oh ya he called you and told you he left that there?
Old 03-23-2014, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinEF7
Oh ya he called you and told you he left that there?
Wth are you talking about? If you don't have anything helpful to say gtfo.
Old 03-23-2014, 05:39 AM
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Default Re: Fresh built lsv shavings!

ok so it was the headgasket huh?

what torque and steps/sequence was it installed with?
were the block and head resurfaced?

with compression into the 12's do you have a good amount of ignition timing removed especially low rpm and moderate to high load?
Old 03-24-2014, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by blackeg
ok so it was the headgasket huh? what torque and steps/sequence was it installed with? were the block and head resurfaced? with compression into the 12's do you have a good amount of ignition timing removed especially low rpm and moderate to high load?
The tq spec i followed was 23ft/lbs, 45ftlbs, 63ft lbs and 75ft lbs with arp moly lube. Yes both head and block were resurfaced to make sure everything was flat. I'm not sure about the ignition timing removed, I have to check with my tuner. I'll keep everything posted! Thanks for bumping my thread blackeg!
Old 03-24-2014, 06:08 AM
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Default Re: Fresh built lsv shavings!

You DO NOT use a multi-step torque sequence with head bolts. ARP engineers have repeatedly told people to get them no more than hand tight (first the stud, then the nut), then crank it to the HONDA-SPEC. No number of idiots posting their tricks on forums should change that sequence or the final torque value.

As far as breaking in the rings, you have to understand what you're trying to do. You're trying to seat the rings, meaning trying to lightly wear them down to seal fully. If you had any moly-based assembly lube in the cylinders or ringpacks, you probably need a new hone & rings. If you *****-foot around while driving and think vacuum decel is the answer, again, you may need new rings.

The goal for seating rings is to apply maximum pressure to them while keeping speeds low. Several near-WOT pulls, each time decelerating lightly. High RPM can induce chatter and ruin the seating process, low load (high vacuum from decel or idle) pulls the rings into the pistons and slows the seating process. If you also ran it rich as ****, you also washed down the rings and will need new rings. There is a reason nearly all race motors are broken in on the dyno. If idling or high-vac was the solution for break-in, they'd pull them outside and idle & blip the throttle non-stop for hours.

If compression numbers haven't got worse, you probably haven't seated some rings yet. Find out what high-load break-in method will work best for your roads, do it, then check compressioin, and repeat a few times if needed. If the numbers don't change, you can have excessive blow-by that will lead to early oil contamination until you re-ring it.
Old 03-24-2014, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by HiProfile
You DO NOT use a multi-step torque sequence with head bolts. ARP engineers have repeatedly told people to get them no more than hand tight (first the stud, then the nut), then crank it to the HONDA-SPEC. No number of idiots posting their tricks on forums should change that sequence or the final torque value. As far as breaking in the rings, you have to understand what you're trying to do. You're trying to seat the rings, meaning trying to lightly wear them down to seal fully. If you had any moly-based assembly lube in the cylinders or ringpacks, you probably need a new hone & rings. If you *****-foot around while driving and think vacuum decel is the answer, again, you may need new rings. The goal for seating rings is to apply maximum pressure to them while keeping speeds low. Several near-WOT pulls, each time decelerating lightly. High RPM can induce chatter and ruin the seating process, low load (high vacuum from decel or idle) pulls the rings into the pistons and slows the seating process. If you also ran it rich as ****, you also washed down the rings and will need new rings. There is a reason nearly all race motors are broken in on the dyno. If idling or high-vac was the solution for break-in, they'd pull them outside and idle & blip the throttle non-stop for hours. If compression numbers haven't got worse, you probably haven't seated some rings yet. Find out what high-load break-in method will work best for your roads, do it, then check compressioin, and repeat a few times if needed. If the numbers don't change, you can have excessive blow-by that will lead to early oil contamination until you re-ring it.
Wow thanks for the info! Yeah I didn't know that you weren't suppose to do a multi-step tq on the head studs. I looked on honda tech and ppl were saying to do a multi step tq on the studs.. As for breaking in the rings, I've been do several wot pulls and have the motor "brake" itself down. About how long does it usually take for the piston rings to seat in? Like I stated, Ive only put 450 miles into the motor so far..
Old 03-24-2014, 07:02 AM
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Default Re: Fresh built lsv shavings!

It really depends on the hone that was done. If it was a rough 150 or 220 grit used then a fine plateau cut of 400 grit after, it would be very fast. If it was a 220 grit cut w/o much fluid to remove swarf (removed material), it could take a while. I've seen circle track cars take half a lap to seat, and nearly a full race to seat the rings. You can actually see with the lap timings when they do, since times stop dropping. For a street car it can take hours if done right, days or never if done wrong.
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