cdownin

I started out with a complete jdm h22 $700
I bought a complete f23a5 $200
JDM Type S pistons $200
JDM LSD tranny Free
Copper head gasket $100
New bearings and piston rings $200
Integra Axles $40
Integra front knuckles $75
Hasport Engine Mounts $200
New starter and Alternator $2200
Engine work. Micro Polish, Bore Hone, Balance, Redoing the clearance on Rods, Assembly, $950
Phearable.net computer $120

Total = More than a JDM h22 which is what I was trying to beat the price of....

This is my initial setup that I was trying to go with in the paragraph below..

A lot of people told me just to swap that but I wanted alittle more power to fight off the K's.. the complete f23 block was only $200.. So I bought that asap.. took them both apart.. I raped the h22 of oil cooler, water pipe, alternator mount, pulley, cam pulley gear, water pump gear, just pretty much every thing i needed to do tha swap.. I forgot to take tha pistons.... Anyway I traded it for a JDM H22 tranny.. I dunno if its lsd or not... I bought two sets of RSX pistons cause I thought they worked. And now I got bb6 Type S pistons which i will take pictures of when I get them... I decided to see Take the RSX type S rods down to tha machine shop to see if I can run those.. I read that the F23 rods where alittle thin complared to H series rods... and the f23 rods where longer also due to that big *** crank thats in there... RSX's are short and I guess thicker than f23 rods... I put it all in the zealworks compression calculator and I only have to mill the head or block about .033 to get same valve to piston clearance as stock... I have not decides on whether to mill the head or block but I heard if you mill the head you will run into problems because it will warp... is .033inch too much to take off the head....

I have a p06 Ecu that I have modified for VTEC and put the moates chip kit in it... It is currently running my NONVTEC D series and it runs like **** now.. Really Rich and rev limits at like 6000rpm.. I didn't know it would mess it up that bad. So i need to get this swap done cause Im wasting gas and it idles high constantly.

I also am working on the setup of the intake manifold and other various stuff like fuse box and axles.. I have all of the above to do tha swap... Fuel line clutch line and shift cables and plastic shifter. I got all of them from a 2000 accord. Hasport mounts.. tha old school ones with tha tranny mount that mount under tha frame rail...

I heard accord axles work but has anyone used accord axles and half shaft.... I will take pictures when i get all my parts spotless ...

I want to run a 100 shot of nos on E85.. I will be using H bearings.. let me if you have hear anything about these "H bearings" as the machine shop called them

All critizism is welcome but would hope you know what your talking about before you say something... ANY WAY

THE SETUP IN LIST FOR REFERENCE

F23 Block Bored and Honed to 87
F23 Crank Unspun still micro poslished
RSX Type S Rods
Prelude BB6 Type S Pistons
JDM H22 Head milled .033?.. Proper holes blocked off
JDM H22 Tranny
Butterfly Valve removed Intake Manny

POST AWAY

cdownin

THA Jalapy that its going into


RSX pistons that i slaved cleaning in vain


The donor JDM H22 block that I traded for a JDM tranny


Let me clean more stuff and I'll post pics...

alterdcreations

are you boosting?

cdownin

No I don't really think imma boost.. I only wanna make 3 to 4 hundred horses.. this is gonna be my DD so I might run 100 shot

fatboy1185

cb7tuner.com for all your answers

cdownin

I got tha pistons today .. not really worth taking pictures of.. they don't look like what they look like on the hmotorsonline.com site they look alot flatter in person no dome really so I'll just post what i thought i was getting..


Im in tha middle of porting my intake manifold.. I got pissed at my girlfriend and grinded a hole in tha top half of the manifold but bottom half is about 50% done and I will be dropping that cheap *** pistons off and tha machine shop on monday so they can rape me like $600 and I got raped by DX Trix on this site because he sent me the wrong stuff.. I thought i was getting a used pressure plate from a six puc clutch but he sent me an oem pressure plate with tha six puc ... another 165 down that drain so I was mad and went to autozone and bought a durlast clutch.. Kinda done with tryin to keep up with some of you guys on here i just wanna put it in and let her rip.....

cdownin

Im not done grinding tha intake manifold but I just wanted to throw some pics up cause it will take me forever....




Modified by cdownin at 12:56 AM 8/8/2008

2fastGSR

you get raped a lot. . .

start carrying lube around , might make you less angry

Shadowz7429

Lol! Good luck dude

cdownin

I just wanna get this thing done so Im just doing stuff left and right... for parts I have only spent 1500 with mounts... with the prices on hmotorsonline.com I don't think i did to bad.. but that machine work is what is really making me consider buying lube... Like 600 or 700 hundred to rework rods, bore and hone sleeves, balance and micropolish crank, bearing, mill tha head, shave pully, and put short block together..... I could have just thrown it all together and just had it bored and honed but this is my first time and im not a professional so i will let them do what they get paid to do..... So yeah I wonder if it is worth it for a daily driver but I want to be able to rev to 8000 grand and not worry about throwing a rod...

does anyone think k20 stock rod would break in my setup... I don't think imma launch with slicks or drag that much cause im dumpin all this money into it and its my daily and i don't wanna see it die..

dohcem1

nnice built. Your sucker is gonna fast!

alterdcreations

not too bad but 400 hp.......you'd betta be spraying god

2fastGSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cdownin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like 600 or 700 hundred to rework rods, bore and hone sleeves, balance and micropolish crank, bearing, mill tha head, shave pully, and put short block together...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not trying to be a dick here but have you ever had anything built before?

Only reason i ask is because 700 dollars is a steal to get all of that done

You should see what some people pay at a race shop for longblock assembly. . . hahaha oh man i think you would quit the game

alterdcreations

if you use type-s(k20) rods your gonna be really low on your compression. might want to rethink this alittle

cdownin

I know thought it out for months... I was gonna use accord rods... that are longer then prelude h23 rods would have been a perfect bolt up.. and they are thicker.. but since i had k20 rods already I only need to mill tha head .033 to get about 11.5 compression ratio... and it would be at tha stock p2v clearance... but i guess making the combustion chamber smaller raises the compression.. but i need it high cause of the elevation out here... 4000ft

is .033 too much to take off tha head?

1BADEGDC2

sik wit it! keep up the work yo!

alterdcreations

i would deck the block. the piston is in the hole .039 so deck the block .035 while their at it. that will give you 11 1/2 points.

cdownin

I was gonna do this orginally but I thought milling tha head would make the combustion chamber smaller giving me a little more compression.. But I heard if mill the head it will warp easier and have over heating issues... and i only milled it .033 that gave me stock h22 p2v clearance I didn't want to go much further than that....

alterdcreations

how much are you spraying. 200 shot?
your block is gonna

cdownin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much are you spraying. 200 shot?
your block is gonna </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell No.. .all the internals are OEM.. I was thinking 100 max and running the switchable eprom and rig it up to swith maps when I arm the system

alterdcreations

did you finish the manifold yet?

cdownin

I gotta go get a sanding attachment and sand it down but the pictures in my last post before you posted is about done im not going to take it down much further than it is now.. I just got back from vacation and im Kinda depressed going back to work and all so I get her done .....

2fastGSR

Not sure if you are going to or not, but I would suggest polishing the rough down as much as possible.

A rough finish works well for intake ports on head after the injectors as it helps maximize atomization of the fuel but before, you want the air to have least amount of restriction getting to that point

cdownin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fastGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure if you are going to or not, but I would suggest polishing the rough down as much as possible.

A rough finish works well for intake ports on head after the injectors as it helps maximize atomization of the fuel but before, you want the air to have least amount of restriction getting to that point</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay will do thanks for the helpful info

LA_HONDAS

any updates