B19CivicHB

My setup:
92 Dx hatchback
95 JDM B18C gsr with LSD tranny
i, 4-2-1 h, custom 2.25 exhaust
JUN lightened flywheel 4.4kg
civic si wheels with Nitto 555's
6 puck stage 2 clutch
full interior
no ps, no ac

I was just wondering if i could make it into low 14's with that setup, assuming i have any driving skills at all. Thanks.

eg6ajk

should be without problems..just use some good light weight wheel/tire combo....also you might want to take off the exhaust and run with just a header, take off the rear bumper cover and all the seats...and high 13's are possible.....

Night Kid

high 13s

Stunna BEN

Low 14s for sure and if you have really good skill high 13s could come into the pic. Depends on weather and alt. Good luck with it though!

B19CivicHB

haha outstanding! so throw a Apexi VFAC and a pair of JUN cams in there and I should be in steady high 13's?? God bless all-motor! How much is getting the head ported and polished and 3 angle valve job? thanks for the info guys.

Night Kid

what kind of jun cams are you getting? jun 3s are tight for drag racing. anyways, expect to do LOTS of dyno tuning

B19CivicHB

lotsa dyno tuning... for cam shafts?

D-Man

.............14.4@96mph............

EGSIR

A friend of mine has the same car, motor headers, and LSD on Volk TE 37's and he ran a 14.3

and it was 90 degrees outside

P.S.
I just bought that motor and I'm putting it in my 94 SI tomorrow

mr2

low 14's is good :D

B19CivicHB

Let me know how the swap goes!

SiRJuS10

on street tires, i'd have to say that you'd hit low 14's... With slicks you've got a 13 second ride... Now, some jun III's w/ valvetrain would be an easy 13 on streets! Those are the best cams on the market (finally someone knows how to make a cam for a honda!)I'd suggest getting a skunk2 manifold and a type r ecu or b16a ecu to control the single butterfly of the skunk2 manifold... I had a b16a/gsr head with a skunk2 manifold and p30 ecu, it was pretty impressive! Oh yeah and you don't have to take off your back bumper cover unless you're like 12's or lower! Not all that much drag with low 14-high 13 second cars! That's why i be laughin' when fools show up wit dem str drag shiets on the back bumper!


[Modified by SiRJuS10, 4:16 PM 11/9/2001]

B19CivicHB

Wow that sounds good... Too bad JUN III cams are like $1200..... but its worth it. Another question for you guys... if i get a thinner head gasket to up compression a bit what thickness should I get? I dont even know what the stock JDM GSR head gasket thikness is. There is a SCE copper head gasket that has 3 different thicknesses, .043, .050 and .062. What kind of gains will i get by getting the thinner head gasket? Is it dangerous? I plan to eventually up my rev limiter. What precautions should I take so I dont throw\blow anything? Titanium retainers, nwe springs, valves, rods pistons??? Is it really worth it to port and polish the head? thanks guys

SiRJuS10

Actually, Jun 3's are around $900-$1000. And the vavletrain is around $450-$500. The reason people are selling them for the price you listed right now is because hardly anyone has them and everyone wants them. So people can charge whatever they want and the impatient or desperet will pay for them. Just wait another month or so... They'll be back. It's just that JUN USA is dumb because they're takin' they're sweet time makin' them... They're missin' out on alot of money! If you wanna spend the extra money for shipping JUN Japan has them. Trust me they're well worth it! I'm getting them for my h22, i've seen dyno's for an h22 tuned with about +27hp! Come on now! Those cams have almost identical primary lobes to stock honda cams! The idle on those things is amazingly close to stock! The thing about making a cam for a honda that people do wrong is trying to beef up the bottom end power! That's not where vtec motors make power! It's after the vtec crossover! So having stock primary lobes is okay! It's the vtec lobe that's gonna make the most power for us! The only set back is that you have to pay for someone to rechip your ecu to rev higher. Jun's don't make peak hp till way up there on the rpm band! Crower, Skunk2, etc... Those are way harder to find hp on the dyno than JUN!




[Modified by SiRJuS10, 5:32 PM 11/9/2001]

B19CivicHB

I guess im gunna have to start saving for those huh... wiht a stock redline of 8200 i should be able to up that a bit with a beefed up valvetrain. Im just worried about the pistons rods etc... I also want to up the compression but i dont know what to do first... compression or cams? Stupid expensive dyno tuning... grrr.... Also, i wont be able to use a type-r ecu cause its obd II and the JDM b18c runs a OBD I ecu... i dont really wanna mess with the huge hassel that would create...


[Modified by B18CivicHB, 2:36 PM 11/9/2001]

Spade

20@60 mph

rioninja

I would say definatly 13s with slicks, probably knocking on 13s with -good- street tires. 92 DX hatch is still a damn light car.

SiRJuS10

aww man... I went and edited my post so it would have something about the rods and pistons! If you want some stock honda parts, i'd suggest ctr pistons with itr rods! That should be more than enough for a street car! I mean, you don't have to go over 9k do you? Even then, they'll hold up! If you don't know which cams you're getting i'd go with portflow valve train. They're the stiffest i've seen out! It's ok to go with different springs and different cams! You don't have to get the springs that are the same company with the cams. But look at it this way, if a company makes cams, then the springs they manufacture should work well with their cams! Just a rule of thumb... But when a company says you HAVE to go with our springs, that's a bunch of bull... They don't wave a magic wand on their springs to make them strong enough for their cams! It's about spring rates... As far as i've seen the web valvetrain is strong enough to hold up to Jun 3's... But not TODA's. Toda's have a tendency to *** up a lot of cat's shiet! You need the strongest valve train possible! But as far as strong goes port flow is one of the top guns. Should be able to handle any street/strip cam you get. I'd definatley go with some cams first! I mean, they're considered bolt on parts... Any kinda pistons or rods you gotta pull the motor and work from their. Just go with the cams first. Who knows you might be satisfied there and wanna switch to the outside of your ride, and work on it! I always say, "I ain't tryna be no kinda drag racer or show car, but it's nice to have a phat *** street car!" Ain't that what this shiet's all about?


[Modified by SiRJuS10, 9:59 PM 11/9/2001]

B19CivicHB

SO i get JunIII cams, JUN valve springs, titanium retainers and new valves? is that enough? On top of the Skun2 intake manifold and bored TB of course

Darin D.

You'll go 13.98@100...especially since you've got that "stage 2" clutch in there lol!

B19CivicHB

I sense sarcasm....

SiRJuS10

Yeah, that would be ideal! Really though, the skunk2 manifold is a very good upgrade for the gsr head... The dual butterfly/runner manifold is sort of more restrictive than single butterfly manifolds of the b16 and type r. But i must stress that you need the right computer (something to control the single butterfly manifold) to run well. I've seen dyno charts of people with that manifold that have a p72 (GSR) ecu and lose about 8-11 lb-ft of torque.

B19CivicHB

But wont i run into a problem switching from OBDI to OBDII?

B19CivicHB

problem yes?

SiRJuS10

Just buy a jumper to switch from obdII to obdI...