cleo7

Hi to all members,

Need help to clarify an issue.

As the title implies, I am running an EF H22 and the Radius rod hit the crank pulley even on moderate drop. After research, I have read that some peeps are mounting the rod on the bottom of the lower control arm. I have done that on my EF; by mounting it on the bottom and also used a spacer. Change has been done only on side where pulley is located. I have good clearance now and pulley is safe but the front of the car is vibrating when i am hard cornering. The car is behaving normally on straight roads though.

How can i solve this issue? Should i remove the spacer? should i do the same for the side?

Please help. Suggestion are appreciated.

Thanks

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

i had the same damn issue... hated it.
rubbed on my full race & innovate radius arm.
didn't allow me to lower the car to the height i wanted in order to drive the car faster on the road course.


I had a custom billet 7071 aluminum one made a few weeks ago. Gonna go test it out later this month to see if it still rubs under hard braking.

cleo7

You mean? Custom radius rod?

cleo7

Can i have a picture of the custom rod made? Just to have a look at the shape please?

solorex

I have 90-93 accord radius rods in my CRX because the are curved and provide lots of clearance for the crank pulley. Need to drill out the holes for the control arms slightly and you need to shorten the front of the rod and extend the threads an inch or so. Works perfect.

Scroll down in this link: https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-...nside-1571209/

The pics of hte accord radius rod is there.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

^^^ great link

I would probably done that route if I did not have an aftarmarket traction bar.

i'll try to upload picture later tonight of my custom piece

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

couple things to keep in mind.
b18c motor using "b16" 1st gen hasport billet mounts when they first came out in 2003ish.

I confirmed with Brian @ Hasport a while back that with these b16 mounts the engine would sit higher with b18 motor therefore my valve cover would hit the hood webbing.
I raise the hood up slightly to prevent contact. I added a washer in between the motor mounts & engine post post mount to lower the engine downward by about 3-4mm.

In doing so with lowering the engine, it also didn't give me much room for crank pulley clearance when I lowered the ride height.



With the car at this height (2.25" drop pick below) and fluidampr pulley, the car wouldn't start because the pulley would be sitting on the full race traction bar. I contact Jeff back in 2010 about this and it was the first time he has seen any clearance issues.




Even after raising the car back up to be about .5" drop from stock, the oversized fluidampr would still rub on the radius rod during deep corner/braking & going up driveway.





I swapped the fluidampr out for OEM gsr pulley.
It provided more clearance.
I could lower the car about 1" without any rubbing during regular driving or road racing.
If I lowered the car to about 1.5" to improve car handling, the oem pulley would rub on radius rod even under mild braking/lefthand corners. So I had to keep it around 1.25" drop (see pic below)





I decided to go with innovate bar to see if the clearance would improve due to slightly different design. There was some improvement but very little & not enough.




I got some 7071 aircraft grade aluminum and had my cnc guy at MAP design it.
Project No RUB





Installed. This is with the knuckle jacked up & coilover set to replicate 2" drop.

With about 2" road height drop, there is no rubbing under street driving, ramps, 55mph cloverleave turns lol . I haven't taken it to the track yet.... fingers crossed.







Sure, I could of just ordered a new hasport mount (with b18 block height factored in)... but I figured it probably would not have been enough clearance anyways. So i'll give this a try, and order a new driver side mount if needed.


Hope that helps.
Charlie

cleo7

Thank you all for sharing so much info. Really appreciate it.
I also have a traction bar so i cannot go with accord radius rods. Think i will go custom. Charlie, did you go custom on both sides or just on the crank pulley side?

Anyone tried to mount their radius rod on the bottom of the control arm like I did? Is it a safe setup? Getting vibrations when cornering?

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

I only made it for 1 side.
7071 alum is spendy & and didn't want to take up too much of his time.
Maybe just for visual looks points I'll have him do another one next year... i'd rather spendy money on a ATI damper first.


from i recall someone say the ef/da suspension is "triangulated" .... not sure having DS rod bolted from bottom of LCA differs the suspension geometry vs. from the stock topside.

cleo7

@ charlie- Nice car you have there. Thanks for all the info you shared. You also seem to give attention to details.

If it doesnot differ from the stock suspension, then it should be safe. Right?

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

if you are referring to bolting the rod on the underside of the LCA... than yes, i don't see how bolting it that way could compromise the "safety" of the car.

cleo7

Thanks Charlie.

The car is running fine but i am still getting some vibrations. Apparently it can be the clutch or the shaft

Bently_Coop

Charlie- Thats a nice piece.

ef2_civic

iTrader: (1)

Yeah had this issue with my race version ATI and b20vtec in my ef and full race traction bar. Had to end up using a street version to use any harmonic balancer in the ef at all

Sucks full race told me the same they never heard of this also

kingofbattle909

iTrader: (6)

X2

Canadian_EF

i run the ESP traction bar in my H2B EF and have the rod mounted to the bottom of the LCA. seems to handle fine, takes corners like a champ, lots of space for the single belt pulley.

however, one thing I read about was the twisting of the LCA that will lead to bushings wearing out more quickly. i'm not sure if this is true or not, but it is definitely something to consider.