SMOOTHN

iTrader: (1)

06/09/06:
I will update the thread and pics as I go along, because I am still in the process!!!

First off I referred to https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=131949

B18C5-EH's Thread was missing the pictures so i decided to start a new one with pictures... Hope thats alright?

I also had a Helms Manual by my side.

http://www.redpepperracing.com/technical/main.php

I decided to Swap out my blown B18A1 with another B18A1...
Simply because I wanna be able to say "Yea, I dropped this in!!!"
I wasn't willing to dish out over $1000 to some guy that will just drop in my motor, when I can use that $1000 on something else... I figured I have time, WHY NOT?


Make sure you have what is listed, if I am missing something let me know...
Things you will need:

1. Get a toolset doesn't matter what brand it is, I got all kinds from Craftsman to cheezy dollar store christmas present type tools, it all does the same thing until it breaks! LoL!!

2. Hydraulic Jack (able to lift at least 15" high)

3. Jack stand(s) (1 is okay but 2 is better)

4. 17mm, 19mm, 32mm sockets (a must for this swap)

5. Punchset (to remove Shift Linkage)

6. Dykes/NeedleNose pliers

7. Prybar (to help remove the CV joint/Axles)

8. Cotter pins

9.Soldering iron (for wiring)

10. Engine Hoist


Day One:

1. Drain all the fluids (Anti-freeze, Oil and Transmission). Refer to the Helms Manual if you dont know how...

2. Disconnect all Plugs that connect to some part of the engine:


3. Disconnect all Hoses that could restrict you from removing engine:


4. Remove the Exhaust Manifold (I will post socket size later):
No pics yet, Camera is acting funny...
Hope i dont have to use my Camera phone!!

5. Remove Shift Linkage (some may vary). Some Shift Linkages have a clip that has to be removed before trying to punch the pin out, mine didnt have that clip.
Try doing this:
A: With your car jacked on the jack stands, get under your car and get to the transmission boot, pull back the boot to reveal the pin, (if there is a clip on the pin remove it with a flathead or your fingers) and while your there take out the bolt that hold the transmission and shift rod together:

The Shift Linkage Boot and the Bolt:

Here is the Pin:

Here is what it should look like with out the Pin:

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6/10/06:

Ready to remove axles:

1. Be sure to have the front end off the ground!!! Its easier that way!!!

2. Remove your rims/tires
3. Use the 32mm socket to remove the nut from the axle:


4. Use the dykes or Needle Nose Pliers to remove Cotter Pin from the 17mm castlenut on the LBJ (lower ball joint)
5. Use the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the LBJ:

6. Use the BallJoint Wedge to remove the Balljoint from the Lower Control Arm:

You can try to Knock it loose by taking a hammer and hitting the lower control arm this will save your Balljoint Boot... the Balljoint Wedge will damage the boot...
7. Use bolt 17mm sockets to remove the thru-bolt that runs through the strut fork, this will give you better access to the axle when you move the fork to the side and slide out the axle:

8. Move the Brake Rotor out of the way and pull the axle out. the passenger side was easy since I got HUGE BICEPS!! LOL... JK!!! You can use a prybar and wedge it between the transmission and inner joint... But the my driver side was a BITCH!!!
I had to get under the car and bang it out slowly with a hammer. Or you could use the prybar here as well... Whichever works for you...
Sorry I didnt get pix of that...

MAKE SURE YOU DRAINED ALL THE TRANSMISSION FLUID OUT, you dont want that sh*t everywhere...

Now for the Motor Mounts:

1. Remove the front and rear Motor Mounts:
Passenger Side Before:

Driver Side Before:

Rear Motor Mount before I pulled Bolt out:


Driver Side After, This what it looks like when disconnected:


Rear Motor Mount after bolt removed (from the top) not very good pic:

Passenger Side no pics...

2. At this time you can secure the hoist to your engine. There is bracket to hook the chain to on the transmission and a spot on the backside of the head that uses a solid 14mm bolt to hook the other side of the chain to...
OR
The way I did mines refers to eg crunkmonster's thread located at https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=466327

The way I secured my motor was from underneath the car.

I used 2 Floor Dollies to to set under the motor (one under the oil pan and one under the tranny) so it was balanced... then lower the car so that the engine sits on the dollies

3. After you are sure it's balanced and it wont fall over, Start removing the rest of the mounts:
Driver Side BEFORE

AFTER

Pasenger Side BEFORE

AFTER

4. Pick it up out of the engine bay or jack up yor car using the hydro jack, if it wont clear under the car get a couple 2x4's and try again... my car was lowered and it was a MF finding 2x4's at 2am... I dont have pictures of the car being jacked up but I do have pics before of it before I pulled from underneath:




I will Post PICS of my engine bay and motor tonight 06/10/06!!!

When I install I will try to do another write up if this one was helpful to others...

If you can think of something I missed or have any questions PM me... lataz




Modified by SMOOTHN at 4:47 PM 6/10/2006


Modified by SMOOTHN at 4:54 PM 6/10/2006


Modified by SMOOTHN at 4:57 PM 6/10/2006

import810

sweet. It's looking good so far. Your camera is eh......

but for a DIY

SMOOTHN

iTrader: (1)

Engine removal complete... Pics posted... Bump

import810

nie writeup, but better pictures would help