craigie

I'm workin a TOTAL D16Z6 swap into 91 CRX SI.

Never believe the idiot who says any engine swap is a simple direct bolt up.....

The D16Z6 Swap could be a plug and play swap if it wasn't for the wiring.

There seem to be two MAIN wiring issues:

1. the OBD0-OBD1 converison.
This is taken care of by a prebuilt Conversion Harness---I got it right here on HONDA-Tech.

2. The Motor Harness conversion...
Here are the conversion steps I pulled off a website;

Is anybody making a Motor wiring conversion that replaces the steps below??
This SWAP would be virtually a plug and play if there were pre built harness
for the wiring modifcations.....

Step 13 is a ground wire:

On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 5 it is a black wire and cut it off.
Connect the wire you cut off to the black wire from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 14 is the oil pressure sender wire:

On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 6 it is a yellow wire with a red stripe and cut it off.
Connect the wire you cut off to the yellow wire with a red stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 15 is the tachometer signal wire:

On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 8 it is a blue wire and cut it off.
Connect the wire you cut off to the blue wire from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 16 is an alternator wire:

On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 1 it is a black wire with a yellow stripe and cut it off. Do not confuse this wire with the thick-gauged black wire with a yellow stripe that was described in steps 10 and 16 of the D16Z6 engine wiring harness preparation section!!! That wire is for the power to the distributor.
Connect the wire you cut off to the black wire with a yellow stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 17 is another alternator wire:

On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 2 it is a white wire with a blue stripe and cut it off.
Connect the wire you cut off to the white wire with a blue stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 18 is a back up switch wire:

On the C217 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 3 it is a yellow wire and cut it off.
Connect the wire you cut off to the yellow wire from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 19 is another back up switch wire:

On the C217 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 6 it is a green wire with a black stripe and cut it off.
Connect the wire you cut off to the Green wire with the black stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 20 is the coolant temperature sender signal:

On the C211 connector of the car’s wiring harness next to the strut tower and fuse box locate pin # 7 it is a yellow wire with a green stripe and cut it off.
Connect the wire you cut off to the yellow wire with a green stripe from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 21 is the coolant temperature switch:

On the C212 connector of the car’s wiring harness in the fuse box. It is the long connector closest and parallel to the firewall. Locate pin # 5 it is a yellow wire with a green stripe and cut it off so that there is enough wire to reach the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Connect the wire you cut off to the green wire from the 14 wires you pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness.
Step 22 is the vehicle speed sensor wiring:

These wires are not needed!!! They are the two wires left from the 14 your pulled from the other side of the D16Z6 harness. One is a yellow wire with a blue stripe and the other is yellow with a white stripe.
You could cut them off or leave them or burn them or whatever you want as you do not need them since you are using the vehicle speed sensor from the gauge cluster to tell the ECU how fast the car is traveling. That is why you must have the speedometer drive cable installed correctly or no VTEC and a code 17 for you to cry about. I went ahead and built them into only one side of the Molex connector in my car so they would be there if I decided to do anything with them in the future. Although I have had no use for them to date and probably never will I’m sure.
Step 23 is to copy steps 10 and 16 from the D16Z6 engine wiring harness section. It may be necessary to read some of the other steps to understand what is going on if you become confused.

That should do it for the wiring portion. Are you still wanting to do the swap? I hope so it isn’t as hard as it was to right this article that’s for sure! Good luck and have fun!

Craig

truent

why do you people do this? why not keep whatever harness came with the car..put that on the new engine.. especially a z6 from an si! all you gotta do is extend a plug or two, change one plug to fit from the back of the block on the a6 to the z6 waterneck, add vtec, and use your si ecu? everything plugs right in, you dont gotta worry about anything crazy just some minor minor minor wiring and you're good!.. dont get me wrong.. ive seen that website too and his wiring job is clean as hell.. in fact im gonna do something similar on my next car, but seriously if you're not into the whole wiring thing or have no experience.. go the easy route and keep your original harness.. just steal a few plugs off the new one and you're in there..

another alternative and i thought the whole reason for getting an obd0 to obd1 conversion harness which you say you have, is to keep your stock engine/chassis harness plug your ecu plugs into the conversion harness and then plug the male ends of the conversion harness into the obd1 ecu most likely a p28?.. still a few minor things to do but theres no way you have to switchover all that sheeit just to get your engine to run homie.. you're at the fork in the road.. just gotta choose whatever way you're comfortable with and wouldnt mind having or dealing with for future plans..

theres plenty of sites out there to help you... if you see me on aim anyone.. gettruent.. hit me up, i'll try and help

craigie

1st......I'm doing the TOTAL swap the right way because I want to take my
car to the Calif Ref and get the smog certified. This adds to the VALUE of the
car since I'm legally UPGRADING the engine.
2nd.....This car is a daily driver, it might be EASYER/CHEAPER to mix and match
parts but I guarantee you will constantly be DICKING around with an EXTERNAL
VTEC controller and no HONDA mechanic will want to touch your engine.
I'm not a mechanic and farm out all the work on my car.
3rd.....The wiring is a ONE shot deal, unless you screw it up, your done.

I don't WANT the SWAPING blues......I just want a pure stock motor that
is a bigger kick than I have. If it really works out and I get cocky, I'm slapping
Turbo on.....

Did I screw up (not need?) buying the OBD0-OBD1 harness? I'm using the
Z6 motor harness.

Craig

truent

yeah, if you follow the guys instructions on that site, theres no need for that conversion harness.. he tells you howta do all that within the wire loom yourself..

ive never had to go back on any of my wiring jobs and screw with anything, the external vtec controllers work pretty good actually, but i understand what you're saying about mechanics, they might not even try just cuz you've obviously screwed with the wiring..

and the refs usually don't care as long as there are no exposed wires.. you can do a clean job and not do what that guy's doing, like i said in my first reply.. his job is extra clean and if i could do that in an hour like i can do the other way, i'd do it everytime, thats just too much work.. nothing wrong with what you're trying to do or anything, hope i didnt come off that way but it's just overdoing it a bit.. although if you ever wanna swap anything else in that thing.. droooollll... so it could be worth the effort...

what was your original question? i dont understand.. was it just if there was a plug and play motor->ecu harness? the answer is no and there never will be.. you're always gonna haveta cut stuff add stuff or splice stuff, if honda made the ecu->engine section a little different, maybe, but they don't so we're stuck with learning howta do a lil wiring if we wanna change stuff. where's westminster? im in stockton/central valley... aim = gettruent

p.s. you realize you could do 'my' add a few/extend a few way on your si harness run the vtec (within your wire loom so it's all clean, believe me it's possible), which all the plugs will fit, and use your obd0->obd1 conversion harness and your p28 and you're done right? no external vtec cuz its ran to the ecm and everything.. i'm telling you.. 1-2 hours depending on if you know what you're doing..

p.p.s. although i dont know if refs like obd0->obd1 conversion harnesses.. anyone tried going through stateref with one? reply please! now i'm curious


Modified by truent at 9:55 PM 5/6/2003

craigie

Na, I hear where your coming from too, and appreciate the advice.

I've been alittle confused on the use of that OBD0-OBD1 conversion
harness espesially since I'm going totally z6.

But here is pic I think answers it all.
http://www.thezcresource.com/a...U.jpg

The conversion harness just plugs into the old OBDO connection and pig tails to the new OBD1 to hookup the new P28 ecu.
This should be prefered by the refes since its the ultimate rewiring, neat
and clean.