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I just dropped the D16Z6 into my 1993 Civic Hatchback Automatic. What ecu do I need to use, what wiring harness? What all sensors do I need to run the D16Z6 vtec? Knock sensor, etc... Please help. Im confused to exactly what I need and do in order to run the D16Z6 sufficiently.
Being you are staying an automatic, you are going to have serious challenges. Also your title is seriously misleading then. There is no D15 in the equation, nor is there a Z6 going on here. A more accurate title would have been SOHC ZC/Y8 automatic mini me swap.
Anyways. This hybrid needs a tunable ECU solution. However, the automatic throws a monkey wrench into the works as the Transmission Control Module of the ECU cannot be changed to adjust shift points etc.
What 4 speed automatic are you using? USDM CX, DX, EX, SI from 92-95?
Technically, I bought the hatch for $750 with a blown head gasket on the D15B7. He threw in a D16 JDM bottom end and the Y8 head. I pulled the D15 out and used the intake manifold to bolt onto the D16. Along with some other small parts. I am currently reusing the factory 93 hatch wiring harness because that's all I have. I swapped whatever I could over to the new motor in accordance with the manual I have. So basically I'm using the factory P06, intake manifold and factory harness. The vtec solenoid is on the D16 now. I temporarily got a P28-A52 ecu from my buddy. Understanding what I have going on now, what would be anyone's suggestions? Positive or negative feedback is appreciated.
And i don't plan staying automatic. I want to get the motor running as it should and driving before the auto/manual swap it. I got all the parts for the manual swap so I wont be shelling out money, only my time.
Technically, I bought the hatch for $750 with a blown head gasket on the D15B7. I am currently running the stock tranny. 93 civic USDM 4-SPD AUTO
Okay, that is actually fairly manageable. The Y8 and Z6 heads run slightly different. You are using the B7 IM and fuel rail and injectors. The B7 distributor I've heard will fit the Y8 head.
So I would personally use the P28 Auto ECU you have.
The only thing missing is the two wires from the ECU to the Shock tower, and since you are recycling the B7 engine harness, the two wires from the passenger shock tower to the vtec solenoid and vtec pressure switch.
You could chip the P28 Auto ECU and get it tuned. Leaving the B7 4 speed I've been told is actually better for the Z6 TCU for performance on an auto and will work well. I think the trouble lies with a tuner willing to tune a chipped auto ECU.
Also, using the B7 IM keeps your injectors and fuel lines in proper locations and format (OBD1) but doesn't flow as well as even the Z6 IM and both the Z6 and B7 IM flow different than the native Y8 IM for the Y8 head. As such the stock maps/tune of the P28 ECU will work but won't be ideal. It could run lean or rich or off at points etc. However, it will be the closest to your setup until you can shell out the bucks on a tune.
I believe you are pretty close to having a stock D16Y8 setup once you are done but running it as OBD1 instead of OBD2. The other part I'm not sure of is the deck height of the D16A block. If it's like the B7 you will be 1/2 tooth off on your mechanical timing, if it's like the Y8 block then you won't.
Let me know how that part goes and I can point you in the right direction to correct that too.
Last edited by TomCat39; 07-27-2016 at 02:16 PM.
Reason: Block ID correction
07-26-2016, 04:54 AM
D15B7/D16Z6 mini me swap
