joakwin

im building a classic mini rhd and im sticking a d16z6 into it with a S300 tuned P28 ecu and a few other mods to the engine, anyways the engine is making 143whp at 7100rpm

im in the middle of doing the wiring job of the underdash harness
and i have a few wires that im not sure what they hook up to

here's a picture of the harness so far


the wires are from C303, drivers side plug

the print out i have says
#2 white/blue Alt #3 dash/blue, ( is this for my volt gauge?)
#6 black/yellow VSS #2, witch i think i can delete( or does that go to the speed0)
#10 yellow/green rad fan switch #2 dash, ?
#11 yellow/red 1 wire to oil pressure sensor, ( does it hook straight up to my oil pressure gauge?)
#12 yellow 2 wire back up switch
#13 green/black 2 wire back up switch, (back up switch for reverse lights?) if so then i can remove the two wires because my car dont have reverse tail lights

this is the last of the wiring i have to do for the underdash harness, besides the relays

im not using the stock honda cluster, im gonna use summit racing digital gauges

joakwin

here is a picture of the engine thats going into the mini

bgdriver

All but one of the alternator wires can be deleted and so can the back up lights, I'm not sure about the rest but the project looks awesome!

joakwin

in the process of making all the engine plugs connect at the same location,


started to moch the subframe up to the mounts, to see where i can make the harness go thur the firewall and still be somewhat hidden, the car is alittle rust right now but
im waiting for the winter to warm up a bit so i can paint it od green,
and i have just a hair more fab work
tomorrow i need to get some 2x4's to place under the engine to lift it up a bit, my pallet jack doesn't really get the subframe high enuf to the body with the body being on the lowest settings on the jack stands

HOMEMADEPOWER

What kind of car are you building?

joakwin

classic mini with a honda drivetrain,

its a 1984 mini mayfair, rhd

fiberglass front clip, trunk lid, carbon fiber trunk floor, classic bucket seats, full 1.5in cds tube cage, mini-tec rear suspension with qa1 coilovers, fully de-seamed body, big big brakes

the engine uses a d16z6 block, ported head, bisimoto valve springs/stage 2 cam, adjustable cam gear, mod obx itb's to clear the firewall, PM7 pistons, arp rod/head bolts, obx 3.7 lsd, dyno tuned s300 p28, summit racing digital gauge cluster, summit AN fuel line/fittings
engine made 168flywheel hp, 143whp using 175/50/13 mini rims/tires
engine was dyno-ed right after it was built to tune it
940 miles on the engine/box, still breaking in, should make alittle more power ones everything seats
i didn't build this set up, a guy down the street from me did, he's doing a k20 swap in his mini, and so i got it for a sweet deal and couldn't pass it up

the build is ruff right now from the pic i posted, but its not as bad as it looks,
the body shell has been gone thur and all the rust has been cut out for new panels

and when the winter is over, its gonna be getting some gloss od green paint, but i want the fab work to be 100% done before any paint gets close to the shell
the shell has been primed in a high build primer and a zinc primer, so it wont rust anymore

and my garage is kept at no lower then 60deg temp

as soon as i rebuild my upper ball joints, the hubs will be back on and the subframe will be rolling

mini mag came last week to shoot 3 pages for the project section of the mag and that should come out in a few months

kyden

pretty cool, but seems like a lot of work for something a stock b16 puts out.

joakwin

stock b16 power with alittle less weight,
found the swap for a good deal, pretty much a new engine

i think this car is gonna come in about stock weight, with all the
extra tube ive added to the shell
anything under 1500lbs will be sweet
but its a toy car for sure

reelg09

Impressive!

joakwin

going thur the engine harness wiring and it seems im missing the wiring for the 02 sensor,

i still need to buy a 02 sensor
it seems on rockauto a 4 wire denso is $30 plus shipping, i havn't called around here in the uk to see how much they are loco to me, i dont mind waiting the week or so for rockauto to ship

anyways

the wiring for the 02 sensor
looks like
A6 org/black heating 02 sensor
D14 white 02 sensor signal
D22 ground? green/white

not sure about the 4th wire but i think the org/black heats it also?

joakwin

Car got put on hold and will be for a few more weeks. But since then I have got a wilwood three master cylinder pedal box, wideband 02 sensor, 3 wilwood master cylinders, the rest of the fuel line in -6 an ptfe line plus fittings, 12 gal fuel cell, qa1 coilovers for the front with 350 lbs springs, -4 an fittings with firewall fittings and -4 an pfte line to make up the brake lines and clutch lines and my big 9.5 inch rotors from a accent,
I'm getting ready to order wilwood 4 piston calipers and pads, come sept I'll have a ton of pictures to show off of all the parts getting installed.

Blown90hatcH

If you are going to install the S300, you don't even need to wire in the narrowband O2 sensor. As far as the sensor wires, those are normally ran to your stock Honda gauge cluster. Since you are switching to something else, you don't have to run them. I chip ecus and add a switch with an LED to run to your new cluster so that you can flip it and read the code if you have one. Otherwise, you can see this also through the laptop and the S300. Keep it up, the guy that buys from me for his mini's always puts ITR motors in them and they are super fun to drive.

joakwin

I ended up going with a AEM wideband
and didn't even wire in the code reader wiring, im just gonna read codes with a mini HP laptop with the s300 usb cable

I made a video of the 1st start up, was having some issues with the tune at the time but have since worked it out and I havn't ran it up in a few months now
im re-working my trunk floor, making it deeper to hold the fuel cell in a better spot, more to my liking


ive also done
painted the shell in a paint called "almond"...... im thinking about calling the car "little almond joy"
painted the front clip/hood,
made the mounts for the wilwood pedal box
made/installed steel braided pfte lined -4AN brake line thur the whole car
wilwood 4 piston calipers up front with some 1.1inch bigger vented rotors
made up the exhaust system for the car
painted the edges of the front clip in under coating
- started to make a new grill

joakwin

joakwin

right now my front clip and hood is fiberglass but I kind of want to find a steel hood to build up
if I can find that then I will build that hood to stock spec and then mod up the fiberglass hood to open it up on the top to make it more like a ram air hood straight to my itb filters

windows are in the car and half the interior is built up now, my goal is to make it to a mini run in April and May and then the 2 big shows in Aug

I havn't done any stereo work stuff for the car yet,
I will cross that when I get to it, but im not 100% as of now that I want a stereo in the car

but I do have MB quart amps and a tc sounds tc7 10in sub and CDT audio hd642 3way comps

anthonyelectric

Just a regular guy cheering you on!

joakwin

I made this door panel last night, still need to make the other side
what a pain in the butt
but I think it came out pretty good overall


I got my wiring for the chassis worked out now


I made my dash out of 3/8's mdf

installed my cluster

joakwin

pedal box


the rolling shell out on a sunny day


my daily car got T-boned, no one was hurt, RHD car hit on the left side
so i picked up another one for $450bucks and then 2 weeks later i broke a bearing in the gearbox

$17 bucks for the bearing and $3 for the oil feed thingy for the shaft

joakwin

im gonna put a lip on the bottom of the front to cover up the subframe
but its gonna take two weeks for it to be made, gonna run me $150bucks

but i just dropped paper on a set of qa1 coilovers for the front suspension
and some adapters for rod ends,
changing the tie rods out for rod ends

i need to get the fuel cell mounted in this thing

so i can get the aligment and corner weight done for free
i have till the end of april or else i have to pay for it

joakwin

the body work is done on the car, but im having running issue with the engine

no matter what I do, the engine wont run pass 150deg,
at 140deg it starts to want to turn off, hondata is where im getting the temp from, not the cluster

no mil or cel codes being set

ive replaced the icm, coil, cap/rotor, plugs an wires
and ect sensor
and tonight I checked each injector screen and those were clean

when the engine turns off, the pgmfi relay is kind of hot, I can feel the heat thru the plastic cover for it

and I check for power at the pgmfi relay plugs and everything has power like it should,
but the engine wont run again until it cools down a bit

my next idea is to replace the main relay but at the sametime, its getting old replacing parts and it not being the problem,

joakwin

I took the harness apart this weekend


and I had a missing wiring in A22 and D2

I still need to run it up since putting in the harness

joakwin

double post

Bently_Coop

Pretty awesome build you have going. Keep it up.

joakwin

I've messed with the engine for the last 2 days, misfire is gone but now it won't idle to save its life

I'm about to order a budget harness from rywire

HiProfile

Google "honda main relay solder". There are usually 1 or more dry solder joints in the main relay that pass voltage but can't carry any current after it gets hot. It's usually a problem on a hot day where the interior makes the main relay hot, or a cold day after the heater has been blowing on it. This happens a lot in the USA, usually to 88-91 Civics but also to some newer models.

BTW I've never seen that Mini front end. I like it a lot more than the typical style.