Cr/vtec cost... Can anyone give me a honest answer?
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Cr/vtec cost... Can anyone give me a honest answer?
I have 2 choices that i am considering... turbo my d16, or swap.. I have seen the cr/vtec in action and it looks alot better than the ls/vtec setup... i would prefer all motor rather than turbo.. (less work to maintain) but my budget is tight... im thinking around 2500 is my budget... so which should i consider?? im not interested in any other motor, i want to know about the b20 setup... thanks
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Re: Cr/vtec cost... Can anyone give me a honest answer? (Irishweird00)
with 2500 you can get a b20 longblock and a gsr tranny, but it'll cost you another 4-5k for parts/labour for the vtec addon.
so since you are on a pretty tight budget, pickup a b16, or even a b18 head, save up another 3-4k and do a lsvtec.
so since you are on a pretty tight budget, pickup a b16, or even a b18 head, save up another 3-4k and do a lsvtec.
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Re: Cr/vtec cost... Can anyone give me a honest answer? (Irishweird00)
eithre one will cost alot of money to maintain
a PROPERLY BUILT b20vtec will run you at least 3500$. at LEAST. the norm price is 4500-6000$.
if you take the cheap *** route building the b20vtec you will have problems.
a PROPERLY BUILT b20vtec will run you at least 3500$. at LEAST. the norm price is 4500-6000$.
if you take the cheap *** route building the b20vtec you will have problems.
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Re: Cr/vtec cost... Can anyone give me a honest answer? (Kamin)
kamin, too many people say proper, but it doesnt help them at all.
Can you clarify proper please?
crvtec costs:
b16 93 xsi obd-1 swap
b20 long block
hasport linkage
aem fpr/rail B&M gauge
Hasport mounts
pepboys axles
halfshaft
timing belt/headgasket and other gaskets
skunk2 cam gears
itr throttle
arp head bolts
full custom exhaust
aem 99-00 si intake
fluids
belts/hoses
oil pressure gauge
skunk2 short shifter and **** + bushings
ac mount (gotta have a/c)
racing radiator
obd0-obd1 harness
brakes (DA front knuckles and 91 ex 15/16ths master cylinder)
hx rims (and no they dont clear my brakes, running blackies now)
tires Dunlop sport A2's and azenis
pump/filter
5030
That was my crvtec setup, alot of stuff people dont comment on, like i went with integra brakes with 91 civic EX 15/16th's master cylinder, i got new tires etc.
I did all the work myself I took the head to a machine shop and pay'd to have the dowl pins moved and the vtec oil plugged, ground out the valve reliefs about 3mm
If this meets kamin's "proper built" setup then there is a price for you.
But, it doesnt meet kamin's proper built setup, so *shrug* i guess it costs more
I ran a 13.9 on street tires, with MUCH improvment to go. Once i get my 60' times less then 2.2 I should be hitting way better times, my trap speed is about 101.
I rev this motor out to 8k, I have a YS1 tranny and obd-1 PR3 ecu. Stock clutch, stock block, stock head, ITR intake manafold, ITR throttle body, AEM cold air intake, custom mandrel bent 2 1/4 exaust with 2.5" cat/muff/resinator, stock header. HASport mounts, HAsport linkage
I have almost 3000 miles on the swap so far, and the only problem is the muffler place screw'd up, so I have an exaust leak.
Compression tested at 220 across all 4 cylinders.
Im seriously sick of hearing proper
This is my proper, I up'd my fuel pressure to 45-50ish and my car seems to be running fairly well, sparkplugs have a nice light brown to them.
Just dont run lean, if i could ahve, i would have swap'd out the rod bolts to arp, If I throw a rod, i know why. o well next time.
Anyway, here is a honest answer
from someone that has it
from someone who built it
from someone who's raced it.
When it breaks like everyone says it will, Ill just settle for a b16 longblock.
Untill then, imma keep putting miles on it, almost a 1000 a week, and oh **** do I have fun.
Future plans... skunk2 stage1 cams, A header, dunno which 1 yet, hondata s100 and tein SS's
Ill do that all at about the same time, so its gunna be prolly around summer time, of course unless since i built my motor wrong, it wont last.
Then its back to the track for round 2.
[Modified by irev210, 7:38 AM 3/10/2003]
Can you clarify proper please?
crvtec costs:
b16 93 xsi obd-1 swap
b20 long block
hasport linkage
aem fpr/rail B&M gauge
Hasport mounts
pepboys axles
halfshaft
timing belt/headgasket and other gaskets
skunk2 cam gears
itr throttle
arp head bolts
full custom exhaust
aem 99-00 si intake
fluids
belts/hoses
oil pressure gauge
skunk2 short shifter and **** + bushings
ac mount (gotta have a/c)
racing radiator
obd0-obd1 harness
brakes (DA front knuckles and 91 ex 15/16ths master cylinder)
hx rims (and no they dont clear my brakes, running blackies now)
tires Dunlop sport A2's and azenis
pump/filter
5030
That was my crvtec setup, alot of stuff people dont comment on, like i went with integra brakes with 91 civic EX 15/16th's master cylinder, i got new tires etc.
I did all the work myself I took the head to a machine shop and pay'd to have the dowl pins moved and the vtec oil plugged, ground out the valve reliefs about 3mm
If this meets kamin's "proper built" setup then there is a price for you.
But, it doesnt meet kamin's proper built setup, so *shrug* i guess it costs more
I ran a 13.9 on street tires, with MUCH improvment to go. Once i get my 60' times less then 2.2 I should be hitting way better times, my trap speed is about 101.
I rev this motor out to 8k, I have a YS1 tranny and obd-1 PR3 ecu. Stock clutch, stock block, stock head, ITR intake manafold, ITR throttle body, AEM cold air intake, custom mandrel bent 2 1/4 exaust with 2.5" cat/muff/resinator, stock header. HASport mounts, HAsport linkage
I have almost 3000 miles on the swap so far, and the only problem is the muffler place screw'd up, so I have an exaust leak.
Compression tested at 220 across all 4 cylinders.
Im seriously sick of hearing proper
This is my proper, I up'd my fuel pressure to 45-50ish and my car seems to be running fairly well, sparkplugs have a nice light brown to them.
Just dont run lean, if i could ahve, i would have swap'd out the rod bolts to arp, If I throw a rod, i know why. o well next time.
Anyway, here is a honest answer
from someone that has it
from someone who built it
from someone who's raced it.
When it breaks like everyone says it will, Ill just settle for a b16 longblock.
Untill then, imma keep putting miles on it, almost a 1000 a week, and oh **** do I have fun.
Future plans... skunk2 stage1 cams, A header, dunno which 1 yet, hondata s100 and tein SS's
Ill do that all at about the same time, so its gunna be prolly around summer time, of course unless since i built my motor wrong, it wont last.
Then its back to the track for round 2.
[Modified by irev210, 7:38 AM 3/10/2003]
#5
Re: Cr/vtec cost... Can anyone give me a honest answer? (irev210)
kamin, too many people say proper, but it doesnt help them at all.
Can you clarify proper please?
crvtec costs:
b16 swap
b20 l/b
linkage
fpr/rail/gauge
mounts
axles
halfshaft
timing belt/headgasket and other gaskets
skunk2 cam gears
throttle
arp head bolts
exhaust
intake
fluids
belts/hoses
oil pressure gauge
skunk2 shift kit + bushings
ac mount
racing radiator
obd0-obd1 harness
brakes
hx rims
tires
pump/filter
5030
That was my crvtec setup, alot of stuff people dont comment on, like i went with integra brakes with 91 civic EX 15/16th's master cylinder, i got new tires etc.
I did all the work myself, ground out the valve reliefs about 3mm
If this meets kamin's "proper built" setup then there is a price for you.
I ran a 13.9 on street tires, with MUCH improvment to go. Once i get my 60' times less then 2.2 I should be hitting way better times, my trap speed is about 101.
I rev this motor out to 8k, I have a YS1 tranny and obd-1 PR3 ecu. Stock clutch, stock block, stock head, ITR intake manafold, ITR throttle body, AEM cold air intake, custom mandrel bent 2 1/4 exaust with 2.5" cat/muff/resinator, stock header. HASport mounts, HAsport linkage
I have almost 3000 miles on the swap so far, and the only problem is the muffler place screw'd up, so I have an exaust leak.
Compression tested at 220 across all 4 cylinders.
Im seriously sick of hearing proper
This is my proper, I up'd my fuel pressure to 45-50ish and my car seems to be running fairly well, sparkplugs have a nice light brown to them.
Just dont run lean, if i could ahve, i would have swap'd out the rod bolts to arp aswell, o well next time.
Anyway, here is a honest answer from someone that has it, from someone who built it, from someone who's raced it.
Can you clarify proper please?
crvtec costs:
b16 swap
b20 l/b
linkage
fpr/rail/gauge
mounts
axles
halfshaft
timing belt/headgasket and other gaskets
skunk2 cam gears
throttle
arp head bolts
exhaust
intake
fluids
belts/hoses
oil pressure gauge
skunk2 shift kit + bushings
ac mount
racing radiator
obd0-obd1 harness
brakes
hx rims
tires
pump/filter
5030
That was my crvtec setup, alot of stuff people dont comment on, like i went with integra brakes with 91 civic EX 15/16th's master cylinder, i got new tires etc.
I did all the work myself, ground out the valve reliefs about 3mm
If this meets kamin's "proper built" setup then there is a price for you.
I ran a 13.9 on street tires, with MUCH improvment to go. Once i get my 60' times less then 2.2 I should be hitting way better times, my trap speed is about 101.
I rev this motor out to 8k, I have a YS1 tranny and obd-1 PR3 ecu. Stock clutch, stock block, stock head, ITR intake manafold, ITR throttle body, AEM cold air intake, custom mandrel bent 2 1/4 exaust with 2.5" cat/muff/resinator, stock header. HASport mounts, HAsport linkage
I have almost 3000 miles on the swap so far, and the only problem is the muffler place screw'd up, so I have an exaust leak.
Compression tested at 220 across all 4 cylinders.
Im seriously sick of hearing proper
This is my proper, I up'd my fuel pressure to 45-50ish and my car seems to be running fairly well, sparkplugs have a nice light brown to them.
Just dont run lean, if i could ahve, i would have swap'd out the rod bolts to arp aswell, o well next time.
Anyway, here is a honest answer from someone that has it, from someone who built it, from someone who's raced it.
[Modified by cracker099, 4:29 AM 3/10/2003]
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Re: Cr/vtec cost... Can anyone give me a honest answer? (cracker099)
Dude for 2500$ you can design a NASTY turbo for your D series.. ****, you can guy a FULL GReddy it on here used for about 1k$ and have an *** loot to build on... I wouldn't even consider a CRVTEC if you had 2500$ to spend.. You'll never get it up and running to par compared to dumping 2500$ into a turbo kit and extras on a D Series.. I would make my own turbo set up for about 1500$ (much better than GREddy IMO) and then buy an AEM EMS and run that beast !
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