sivik2nr

I dropped an (OBD I) B18C into my '99 civic hatch(OBD 2). I used my old DX harness to wire it up in conjunction with a Skunk 2 ecu adapter harness. I used the fuel rail and injectors from my DX motor on the B18C so injector rewiring would be needed. Everything 'seems' okay. I hooked up a Air/Fuel ratio gauge to try and monitor my mixture. But the car just seems like it lags a little, I mean power is there, just that there should be more. When I'm at idle, my gauge reads full lean; when I'm at a cruise, the gauge fluctuates from full lean to just above the 'ideal' mixture, like just slightly to the rich side. When I get on the gas the gauge reads almost perfect, like one or bars rich of ideal / stoich, and it's steady.
Occasionaly though, after i've been driving it, and then i shut if off, and i'm away from it for a little bit, when i try to start it again , it won't start. When you turn the ignition on with the engine NOT started the A/F gauge should read no bars. but if you leave the ignition on and watch the gauge, after about 3 minutes or so the gauge climbs to full rich. with the engine off!
When I go to the store or something, after I come out that's when it doesn't start and i get stuck there for somewheres between 30 minutes to an hour or two. The car always cranks over fine... I pulled off the spark plugs one at a time after the car woudn't start to see if i had spark and , yes, spark came out of the plug end and attacked some thing metal.

I have a new fuel filter and new O2 sensor. I'm getting no check engine light.
Is there some problem with using the D16 injectors in this motor? I am still using my stock fuel pump too.... I don't think that is the problem though, I thought that fuel pumps are pretty flexable and can handle some extra load.
Does anyone have any idea to what's going on?
Anyone with similiar problems?
It's gotta be something with the fuel system in my opinion as to why it wont start..
I do have one of those B&M fuel pressure regulators to that i'm using ; i try all kinds of settings but still the problem is there?

What can i check or what tests can i do, to help me find out whats' wrong?

sivik2nr

Anyone have any ideas as to what's wrong?

jetli6969

usually when a honda starts and not starts sometimes is because of the solder in the main relay went bad. When the cabin temp is hot the car wont want to start but when the cabin temp is cool its fine. Do you hear your fuel pump prime?

sivik2nr

Yes, i hear it prime. so you mean a main relay... like the one under the hood, in that fuse box? or someplace else?

jetli6969

main relay is under the dashboard. near your pedals. have you checked your grounds? tranny, thermo, and valve cover? could be loose..

sivik2nr

Yeah, valve cover and trannie are sound...thermo I think so... but i will double check
I will check under there, because at one time I did unplug the entire fuse panel when I got confused about the wiring....I know , stupid, but now everything that can be plugged in is plugged in and the plugs can only fit in to one place, but I have NO turn signals , dash lights, or fan controls! My car was broken into a little while ago and I had a aftermarket small tach on my steering column.....they just rippped it off.... literally.... I dont' know if they broke a wire internally , like in the sheath and I just can't see it , be cause everything still ' looks' fine.. but having no lights, controlls or turn signals really sucks. especally at night.
Are all those all on the same circuit?
I did check all fuses , under dash and under hood, and they are not broken.

88_SC_CRX_Si

Sounds like your ECT sensor, since you can hear the pump kick-on... It will start sending bogus signals to the ECU. Causing it to think, it's starting a cold engine by increasing the injector pulse width, and causing flooding. Rather then one thats already been up to operating temp...

Go here for more info on ts'ing it:

http://geocities.com/chipman_13/sens...-shoot.html#TA