Essenar83

Okay so yesterday I started working on pulling my SOHC motor out. I got the car lifted and then put it on jackstands.

I took off the wheels, took off the entire brake caliper assembly, and started trying to work on the hubs. They will NOT come off.

I don't know what to do to take them off. Do I need some kind of super huge ratchet/sockets? Is there anyway for me to get something like that without having to buy it because I"m only going to use it once?

I tried a huge wrench but I can't get the clearance/leverage to turn it because of the studs.

Anyone with advice?

skunked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Essenar83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay so yesterday I started working on pulling my SOHC motor out. I got the car lifted and then put it on jackstands.

I took off the wheels, took off the entire brake caliper assembly, and started trying to work on the hubs. They will NOT come off.

I don't know what to do to take them off. Do I need some kind of super huge ratchet/sockets? Is there anyway for me to get something like that without having to buy it because I"m only going to use it once?

I tried a huge wrench but I can't get the clearance/leverage to turn it because of the studs.

Anyone with advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>

liquid wrench+big *** breaker bar.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Uh, are you just trying to separate the axles from the hubs?

It's pretty easy, but you do need special tools:
- 32mm Hub nut socket (free rental at Autozone)
- 18" breaker bar for 1/2" sockets (buy one because every mechanic should have one)
- A pipe that fits over breaker bar & ratchet handles (I use the upper part of my jack handle)

Instructions for Axle removal:
- Drain transmission fluid
- Pound back the small dent in both large gold 32mm "hub-nuts" with a flat-head screwdriver
- Now put your brakes back together & put the wheels back on.
- Put car back on ground, in 5th gear with parking brake on, and block tires in both directions
- Remove the center caps from both front wheels
- Insert 32mm socket onto center hub
- Insert breaker bar into 32mm socket
- Slide pipe extension over breaker bar handle to extend it
- Unscrew those huge motherfukin hub nuts
- Put car back on jack-stands
- Remove wheels
- Remove Lower damper fork (easy 2-bolt removal)
- Remove cotter pin & castle nut from lower ball-joint
- Stick 3/8" ratchet handle (tall side) between LCA & knuckle so they bind up
- Break loose lower ball-joint by pushing downward on brakes/hub quickly
- Pull entire hub/knuckle towards you & slide axle out of hub from behind
- If axle is stuck, pound the tip of the axle in with a BFH (big fukin hammer)
- Pop axles out of transmission with a big flat-head screwdriver
- Sit back & drink beer because you just got the axles out

PS: You must replace all cotter pins with new ones, and also replace the 32mm axle nuts with new ones. Don't forget to dent the new axle nut in on the axle notch so it won't come off...

DC4_MADMAN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh, are you just trying to separate the axles from the hubs?

It's pretty easy, but you do need special tools:
- 32mm Hub nut socket (free rental at Autozone)
- 18" breaker bar for 1/2" sockets (buy one because every mechanic should have one)
- A pipe that fits over breaker bar & ratchet handles (I use the upper part of my jack handle)

Instructions for Axle removal:
- Drain transmission fluid
- Pound back the small dent in both large gold 32mm "hub-nuts" with a flat-head screwdriver
- Now put your brakes back together & put the wheels back on.
- Put car back on ground, in 5th gear with parking brake on, and block tires in both directions
- Remove the center caps from both front wheels
- Insert 32mm socket onto center hub
- Insert breaker bar into 32mm socket
- Slide pipe extension over breaker bar handle to extend it
- Unscrew those huge motherfukin hub nuts
- Put car back on jack-stands
- Remove wheels
- Remove Lower damper fork (easy 2-bolt removal)
- Remove cotter pin & castle nut from lower ball-joint
- Stick 3/8" ratchet handle (tall side) between LCA & knuckle so they bind up
- Break loose lower ball-joint by pushing downward on brakes/hub quickly
- Pull entire hub/knuckle towards you & slide axle out of hub from behind
- If axle is stuck, pound the tip of the axle in with a BFH (big fukin hammer)
- Pop axles out of transmission with a big flat-head screwdriver
- Sit back & drink beer because you just got the axles out

PS: You must replace all cotter pins with new ones, and also replace the 32mm axle nuts with new ones. Don't forget to dent the new axle nut in on the axle notch so it won't come off...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to use a 5 foot steel pipe for breaking axle nuts, but now I have an electric impact that does the job in seconds.

Essenar83

Well I need to remove the axles so I can remove the engine lol, but the guide I'm using says to start by removing the axles... Putting the brakes/wheels back on is gonna be a pain in the ***...

If only these guides covered every step including what tools were needed and every precaution to make... This swap is going to take a lot longer than I planned...

Btw, can anyone tell me what other **** I need, RIGHT NOW, before I go to SEARS to buy parts?

What do I need to wire in the IAB or whatever for the GSR motor in an EX chassis?

What do I need specifically to get the motor in and out tools/part wise? I have everything else- Mounts, motor, tranny, ECU, shift linkage, blah blah as far as the car goes.

What I'm missing is the tools and I'm tired of making one way trips to get one tool at a time.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Your questions are vauge an annoying at best. You haven't even given us the year/generation of your car. All we know is it's an EX. Why don't just do the research because all this is basic H-T info & has been covered a hundred times. And no matter what everybody tells you, you will still have to make more trips to the parts/tool stores...

PS: Why the hell did the book you have (or guide) tell you to disassemble the brakes? Sounds like that guide belongs in the trash. If you are going to work on your car, it is a must that you buy the OEM service manual (www.helminc.com). You'll never get the job done right without it...

Essenar83

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh, are you just trying to separate the axles from the hubs?

It's pretty easy, but you do need special tools:
- 32mm Hub nut socket (free rental at Autozone)
- 18" breaker bar for 1/2" sockets (buy one because every mechanic should have one)
- A pipe that fits over breaker bar & ratchet handles (I use the upper part of my jack handle)

Instructions for Axle removal:
- Drain transmission fluid
- Pound back the small dent in both large gold 32mm "hub-nuts" with a flat-head screwdriver
- Now put your brakes back together & put the wheels back on.
- Put car back on ground, in 5th gear with parking brake on, and block tires in both directions
<u>- Remove the center caps from both front wheels
- Insert 32mm socket onto center hub
- Insert breaker bar into 32mm socket
- Slide pipe extension over breaker bar handle to extend it
- Unscrew those huge motherfukin hub nuts
- Put car back on jack-stands
- Remove wheels</u>
- Remove Lower damper fork (easy 2-bolt removal)
- Remove cotter pin & castle nut from lower ball-joint
- Stick 3/8" ratchet handle (tall side) between LCA & knuckle so they bind up
- Break loose lower ball-joint by pushing downward on brakes/hub quickly
- Pull entire hub/knuckle towards you & slide axle out of hub from behind
- If axle is stuck, pound the tip of the axle in with a BFH (big fukin hammer)
- Pop axles out of transmission with a big flat-head screwdriver
- Sit back & drink beer because you just got the axles out

PS: You must replace all cotter pins with new ones, and also replace the 32mm axle nuts with new ones. Don't forget to dent the new axle nut in on the axle notch so it won't come off...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay:
1993 Civic EX 2-door coupe
1995 GSR bottom end with 99 GSR head, 99 GSR tranny

I'm trying to pull the SOHC motor using C-speedracing's B18C installation guide. It's a very good guide with the exception of me not knowing the following:
What part of the underbody do I put the jackstands under, because the damper fork is currently connected to what I have the car sitting on now and I don't want to die or destroy my Civic when I remove the damper fork.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You should already know where to put your jackstands to work on the car (get yourself an OEM service manual please)...

If you look underneath your side skirts right behind the front fender well, you'll see a heafty folded metal strip that hangs slightly lower than the plastic skirt. This is one of your side jacking points. There is also one in front of the rear fender well for working on the rear end. You should only use the Lower-Control-Arms as jacking points as a last resort. Since they are moving parts, the car can easily slip off & mash you up...

DC4_MADMAN

Not to be a dick or anything, cause learning by doing is a good thing in my book, but you sure you want to attempt an engine swap when you dont even know where to place jackstands on the car?

Essenar83

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to be a dick or anything, cause learning by doing is a good thing in my book, but you sure you want to attempt an engine swap when you dont even know where to place jackstands on the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've always had trouble. I look under the car and all I see is mushy stuff and the lower control arm. No bar along the sideskirts or metal pieces clearly for jacking the car up. Just a bunch of mushy stuff and when I try to lift the car on that ****, it starts to push in and I get worried about the jackstand punching through the floor and the car falling on me.

Just an update - I got the axles off, on both sides, and I have half of the shift linkage removed already. I need to find a thin punch so I can pop the pin out of the shift linkage. My friend informed me that once you get the shift linkage removed, it's all a cruise from that point. He said it's mostly loosening bolts and unplugging wires at that point. I'm planning on just getting a huge box, writing "d series stuff" on it and just pulling everything out of the engine bay to make the pull easier.

I know a swap isn't "ideal" for a first time heavy experience, but I figured if I had the tools and the dedication for it, I should go for it. With my car jacked up, axles removed and shfit linkage on the way out, you really think I can afford to give up now?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Well I hope that some of the stuff I typed out helped you out. Here is some more:

The pin you are refering to (usually called the "Bitch-Pin") is almost impossible to remove without an air hammer & 8mm (or 5/16") punch bit. It may be easier if you just disconnect that shifter rod from the under the shifter & swing it down & then pivot it around towards the motor. I'm not exactly sure if that works, but I would certainly try it first.

I'll be doing my first engine swap soon, so I'll have to deal with the same thing. Please post up your bitch-pin experience if you do get it out...

Here was the only pictures I found (all Hondas are the same):

Essenar83

I got the bitch-pin out. What I used was one of those socket wrench 3/8 converters and a mallet. I put it in the center and just smashed on it til the pin popped out of the top.

Now I'm stuck trying to figure out where the damn rear engine mounts are. I can't see anything under my car that resembles the pictures.

DC4_MADMAN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Essenar83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the bitch-pin out. What I used was one of those socket wrench 3/8 converters and a mallet. I put it in the center and just smashed on it til the pin popped out of the top.

Now I'm stuck trying to figure out where the damn rear engine mounts are. I can't see anything under my car that resembles the pictures.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Passenger side engine bay, against firewall, where trans and motor bolt together, you should be able to see it. Hard to see from below.

Essenar83

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Passenger side engine bay, against firewall, where trans and motor bolt together, you should be able to see it. Hard to see from below.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, what size bolt do I use? 12?
I'm gonna go see if I can get it...

I hope my friend wasn't lying when he said the under part of the car is the hardest part... Cuz I could seriously use a break in the work it takes after this crap... The axles and shift linkage were such a pain

DC4_MADMAN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Essenar83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Alright, what size bolt do I use? 12?
I'm gonna go see if I can get it...

I hope my friend wasn't lying when he said the under part of the car is the hardest part... Cuz I could seriously use a break in the work it takes after this crap... The axles and shift linkage were such a pain</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try a 15MM. the through bolt may be 17MM. Its been awhile.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Or you could try getting in there with some sockets & finding the one that fits... Just a suggestion...

v4lu3s

the "guides" are written assuming the reader has mechanical ability/skills. They also assume that you ahve the proper tools to be working on a car, if you do not know what tools you need it is very likely that you do not have the skills required to do the work in a safe manner.

Essenar83

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the "guides" are written assuming the reader has mechanical ability/skills. They also assume that you ahve the proper tools to be working on a car, if you do not know what tools you need it is very likely that you do not have the skills required to do the work in a safe manner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a little late for that. I'm one-man crew and I got the rear mount off and I'm working on the wiring harness plugs. The only thing left under the car is the shift linkage on the side where the shifter is, but I'm waiting for my friend to come by with his universal joint, cuz I'm ****** sick of buying new tools at every step I come across. Once I figure out how to loosen those stupid wire harness plugs that won't come out, I'm home free.

When it comes to engines, I've learned quickly that pulling the stock one out for a first time is arguably harder than putting the new one in, especially since you're the one torquing the bolts and putting the necessities on. There's nothing to "find" unless you didn't organize your parts correctly.

DC4_MADMAN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Essenar83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's a little late for that. I'm one-man crew and I got the rear mount off and I'm working on the wiring harness plugs. The only thing left under the car is the shift linkage on the side where the shifter is, but I'm waiting for my friend to come by with his universal joint, cuz I'm ****** sick of buying new tools at every step I come across. Once I figure out how to loosen those stupid wire harness plugs that won't come out, I'm home free.

When it comes to engines, I've learned quickly that pulling the stock one out for a first time is arguably harder than putting the new one in, especially since you're the one torquing the bolts and putting the necessities on. There's nothing to "find" unless you didn't organize your parts correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Sounds like you are moving along pretty well. The plugs can be a bitch to seprate sometimes for sure.