Back at it Again. got some questions
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Back at it Again. got some questions
hey there everyone. so i have been out of the honda scene for a few years. well about 6 to be exact and i got me a new toy because i was missing my old car. anyways i picked up a 95 hatch with a b20 swap in it. from the research i have gathered it is the older low compression model with p75 head and p75 mani. and from what i was told it has the b16 tranny. its got the p75 eco (obd1) so i have a few questions that i can't seem to find a straight answer on and maybe there isn't one but doesn't hurt to ask.
so first of it starts funny. when its cold out side it acts like it doesn't have any fuel. just it starts to fire the first turn but then dies out and just turns over. once its running it idles rough until its warmed up then it runs great. if its warm out side or at least not freezing it seems to start ok but does the same rough idle for a few seconds. revs up perfectly fine either way. then once the engine is warmed up and been driving around if i shut it off and go into a store or something quick and come back to start it it acts like it doesn't want to start. have to let it sit for like 20 mins.
i have checked the plugs they are clean. i have checked the main relay and tried a different one. no change. i pulled the injectors and just from a visual stand point they seem to be ok. just really confused
this second question may be a dumb one and I'm pretty sure i know the answer but i want to verify. he said he used the b20 harnes on the swap and i haven't found any type of harness adapter anywhere. i know 95s are obd1 but i thought 96 and up where obd2. so my question is how can i tell tell for surtant that it is obd1. i just want to make sure everything is talking and comunicating properly. and lastly is there a true way to test the computer?
thanks in advance for any help.
so first of it starts funny. when its cold out side it acts like it doesn't have any fuel. just it starts to fire the first turn but then dies out and just turns over. once its running it idles rough until its warmed up then it runs great. if its warm out side or at least not freezing it seems to start ok but does the same rough idle for a few seconds. revs up perfectly fine either way. then once the engine is warmed up and been driving around if i shut it off and go into a store or something quick and come back to start it it acts like it doesn't want to start. have to let it sit for like 20 mins.
i have checked the plugs they are clean. i have checked the main relay and tried a different one. no change. i pulled the injectors and just from a visual stand point they seem to be ok. just really confused
this second question may be a dumb one and I'm pretty sure i know the answer but i want to verify. he said he used the b20 harnes on the swap and i haven't found any type of harness adapter anywhere. i know 95s are obd1 but i thought 96 and up where obd2. so my question is how can i tell tell for surtant that it is obd1. i just want to make sure everything is talking and comunicating properly. and lastly is there a true way to test the computer?
thanks in advance for any help.
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Re: Back at it Again. got some questions
oh and one other thing. so because the deal the guy got from this car he threw in a full new in box turbo kit. nothing special as its an eBay kit. but i know from experience they can handle a small amount of boost. i have boosted a few of my cars back in my day so i know how to properly do it but i was wondering since this engine is a low comp motor 8.8.1 i believe, what is a safe amount of boost this engine can handle without a total machine build and stock internals? unfortunately i don't know the milage on the engine however besides the rough idle issue it seems to be a good strong running engine. thanks again
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Re: Back at it Again. got some questions
and another question if the engine os obd2 but its got an obd1 dizzy and harness and comp. do i need to be running the injector resistor box?
#5
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Re: Back at it Again. got some questions
Sorry bud, there is an engine swap forum that could probably answer your questions but since I know very little about swaps and ecu's I can't give you any advice
On a factory car I would suggest checking out the coolant temperature sensor for the ecu. Typically cold start and warm start problems are a result of a bad coolant temperature sensor giving incorrect readings.
I would also check timing on the car to make sure it is in time and not off a tooth. window.post_1479867271882_7 = function(win,msg){
win.postMessage(msg,"*");
}window.post_1479867279186_17 = function(win,msg){
win.postMessage(msg,"*");
}
On a factory car I would suggest checking out the coolant temperature sensor for the ecu. Typically cold start and warm start problems are a result of a bad coolant temperature sensor giving incorrect readings.
I would also check timing on the car to make sure it is in time and not off a tooth. window.post_1479867271882_7 = function(win,msg){
win.postMessage(msg,"*");
}window.post_1479867279186_17 = function(win,msg){
win.postMessage(msg,"*");
}
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Re: Back at it Again. got some questions
i can check the timing but by the way it runs when its warmed up i would feel it is pretty spot on and for the sensor. are you referring to the sensor thats on the passenger side right under the head? is this the same one that gives the temp for the temp gauge? I'm tracking temp on the gauge
#7
Re: Back at it Again. got some questions
No the single wire is the temp gauge, the double wire is the ECT for the ECU to know the coolant temp and the one chrysler kid is speaking of.
Google search obd2 ecu plugs vs obd1 ecu plugs or even obd2 injectors vs obd1 injectors for honda and you should find pics that will help you identify things.
The two spots I know without any doubt differ between the two is ECU plugs and injector plugs.
Google search obd2 ecu plugs vs obd1 ecu plugs or even obd2 injectors vs obd1 injectors for honda and you should find pics that will help you identify things.
The two spots I know without any doubt differ between the two is ECU plugs and injector plugs.
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#9
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Re: Back at it Again. got some questions
Every time one of my cars has idled rough right after starting and then smoothed out after a minute or two it was because of a leaking head gasket leaking coolant into one or more cylinders. That may very well not be the case in your instance, maybe I've just had bad luck. But that was the case in two Civics, one CRX, and one Integra.
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