BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

I am in the middle of doing a VTEC head swap on my B20z and I've run into a slight snag regarding the PCV system.

Since the B20 blocks do not have an outlet to accept the PCV valve nipple (like the VTEC blocks do), and the VTEC valve covers do not have an outlet to accept the PCV valve nipple (like the 96+ nonvtec valve covers do) I am wondering if I can just drill a hole in the VTEC valve cover to accept the PCV valve nipple. From what I understand after reading the PCV thread in the common topics.....the fresh air that ventilates the crankcase is ingested through the intake tube, routed down the PCV hose, fed into the existing nipple/hole on all B-series valve covers, circulated through the crankcase, oil vapors and "dirty air" are then expelled either through an outlet on the block (like the 94-95 LS blocks and 94-01 B18c blocks) or through a hole on the 96+ nonvtec valvecover and sent back into the IM.

If drilling a hole in the VTEC valve cover is in fact a solution for the B20/vtec PCV problem then I need to figure out where to put the hole.

I had played with the idea of just drilling a hole of the diamater size and general location that the B20 and 96+ LS valve covers have (in the center of the valve cover a few inches to the right of the existing PCV inlet nipple) but I am worried about metal shavings falling into the inside of the valve cover. Wiping it clean or sucking them out with a shop vac isn't really an option because the baffle on the top of the valve cover would prevent from accessing the shavings and the hole that I drill through the top would be too small to fit a vaccum hose in there to suck them out.

I am now thinking that I will drill a hole in the oil cap to accept the PCV valve. For a variety of reasons......the main being that the oil cap is completely removable so I don't have to worry about any drilled plastic particles falling to the valve cover. Its plastic so I can go right through it w/ a dremel tool in a matter of seconds. When/if I ever want to sell my valve cover it still remains completely "stock". If I mess up the hole for whatever reason its alot cheaper to buy another oil cap than another valve cover. =p

Is there anything that I have overlooked in terms of functionality of the PCV system and rerouting the PCV valve to the oil cap that I should be aware of before I go forward?

VTECVillain

Before you go drilling anything, look into something as simple as an aftermarket catch-can system...

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

A catch can would still require drilling.......the oil vapors have no where to exit as it sits now. They've either got to come out of the block or the valve cover, yes?

b20izzle

http://216.239.63.104/search?q...hl=en

try that system...i used the same system which uses prelude oil jets.

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the link. From what I understand this seems like the easiest setup:


"Purchase an Oil Cooler Joint from a 97+ Prelude (Part No. 11107-pk2-003). This part will replace the hex nut located behind the block right next to the oil filter. Unscrew the nut and replace it with the new hex nut with the barbed nipple."


I also just thought of another idea. Since my current setup does not use the knock sensor, could I just unscrew that and use that hole? Does the threaded hole for the knock sensor penetrate far enough into the block to suck out the oil vapors...or does it terminate into a "dead end" in the block surface?

blue skunk2

I used a greddy catch can and it did just fine.

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

update: tapped a hole on the exhaust side of the valve cover and routed a super ghetto mish-mash of hoses back to the IM. It ain't pretty but it will do for now and get me out on course for the hpde event this weekend.

f@sth@tch89

iTrader: (3)

bump for some pics of this set up.....im going b20 vtec and was wondering about crankcase ventilation.

i may go with an aftermarket catchcan

theinfamouskonrad

endyn breather kit

dimitarnc

Hi I'm at the moment installing catchcan. I read a DIY article about the catchcan setup on the back of the Honda B20 block. I have the Honda fittings, but I think they are too heavy to be aluminum. Will there be a problem when the engine heats up end there is heat expansion - both the block and fittings? If they are different alloys? I attached a image of what I have from the local Honda dealer. Second question is about the washers - they really seem to be aluminum (very lightweight) - should I use them as is (only crush them when screwing) or there is need to apply some teflon tape?

The fittings:


The washers:

WhiteSol

^^
Heat expansion will not be a problem, block heaters are brass or steel and they work just fine with crush washers.

To answer your second question, do NOT use teflon tape with straight threads or crush washers. Teflon tape is intended to allow you to tighten , in this case the fittings, further into the block by allowing some of the force normally used to overcome friction to be used to tighten the fastener (hence teflon). The most common misconception about teflon tape is that it in some way seals the threads, it does not. Teflon tape is intended to be used on taper threads (NPT BPT API etc) where the sealing action is caused by the decreasing diameter of the bore and increasing diameter of the fastener.

Your crush washer deforms between the two imperfect mating surfaces to allow a much better seal to be formed; any excess teflon tape on your fitting will get caught between these surfaces and negate the crush washer's ability to properly seal the fitting.

dimitarnc

Thank you for reply I will screw the fittings withous teflon