MHhonda99

I know this has been probably asked before, But I am having a wiring problem with my car. Im using the P72 ecu, and my stock wire harness, but the check engine light is on, and no vtec. I ran a wire for the knock sensor, but check engine light is still on.
I have seen the diragram floating around, and that says that I need a 92-95 ex/si engine wire harness to be plug and play. Is this true? If it is, Then my next question is, does anyone have this wire harness for sale?? Let me know. I want my car running in good condition.
oh yeah, and right now, it idles weird, not on smoth tone, kinda jumps up and down a little, about maybe 500 rpm's it jumps, but is does is fast. Other wise the car is fast now, runs ok, but its lagging the VTEC power.
Any help would be nice. Thanx.

B_CRUZ!

B18b Turbo

you need a ex or gsr wiring harness because your spedo wont work and you will have all kids o probs just find the right harness its not worth the trouble

B_CRUZ!

eh... what are you talking about?

JeffS

What year and model is your EG?
What engine wiring harness are you currently using?

It sounds like you just need to add the two wires for VTEC.

MHhonda99

My spedometer works fine. I have a 92 civic vx, so I don't have to run vtec wires, but when the knock sensor is hooked up, vtec still doesn't cross over, and CEL is still on. I agree, I just need the right wire harness. Im going to look around and find the right harness. Thank you.
DOES ANYONE HAVE THIS HARNESS FOR SALE????

dphi

So what code are you throwing?

B_CRUZ!

i do not understand why you would want to change your harness...

JeffS

I agree, but he never did answer my question about what engine harness he's currently using...

ekhatchhybrid

recheck your wires then if the check engine light is still on check to see what code it is throwing
you dont need a new harness

MHhonda99

Im using my stock 92 vx harness. How do know what codes the car is throwing.

MHhonda99

why does that picture on top say i need a different harness to use the plug and play feature????
I found a gsr harness for $150. good price? or not?

B_CRUZ!

you can just add the following wires to your harness. go to the junk yard and cut the A ecu plug and remove the pins with a paper clip. you then solder wires to the X number of pins you need to add. i only added 3 since i am using a skunk2 manifold. then connect stick those pins in the appropriate sockets on the plug and wire them to the appropriate sensors.


[Modified by B_Cruz, 1:28 PM 5/22/2002]

MHhonda99

what??? holy a lot of work. So if I buy a gsr harness, will that be all I need to do? Or will there still be wires missing from ecu to engine bay??? Everyone says this swap is so easy, casue its plug and play, but thats B.S. I noticed that there are spots on my stock plugs where wires should go. Like knock sensor, and vtec pressure plug. If I buy a gsr harness, that won't solve that those wires are still missing. I don't know. This is pissing me off.

hybridsol

Dude, you need to relax... $150 for a new harness is a good price IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE- but you already do. Just add the wires- it's no big deal really... I didn't think the vx was a VTEC engine (?) if not, you won't have the VTEC signal, or the return signal to the ECU, and you will throw codes. Don't you have a manual? Even the Haynes manual? It's only $15 and it will show you how to get codes and what thay mean. It even has wiring diagrams. In any event, a B18C1 swap is NOT plug and play...

InfamousRS

Adding the wires (2 to 6 of the, depending on what your running) is NOT HARD AT ALL!!! I did it for the first time last weekend, it took me 15 minutes tops!

Anywas, make sure you run the Vtec solenoid off of the A4 pin location, and the Vtec pressure switch off of the D6 pin location. At first I had them mixed up, and Vtec would not cross over and it was throughing a code 21 cel. After a litle research I switched them, and what do you know? VTEC!!!!

B_CRUZ!

maybe he shouldn't go hybrid

Jason kiDD

You do not I repeat do not need a new harness. The wires for Vtec solenoid, pressure switch, and knock sensor all can be added seperately without even touching the harness. All you do is run the wires to the ECU and you are done.. Just know that on the solenoid there is a signal wire and a ground wire.. Just make sure you find a spot for the ground wire and you should be fine...

MHhonda99

ok, i am going to try and figure it out, using my stock harness. grrrrrrr
Is there anyone around my area that knows how to do this really good? I would pay good money I can do all the mechanical work, but im a retard when it comes to the electrical part of the car.

BoostedGSRBubble

B cruz is right, this kid does not deserve o go hybrid. In the grand scheme of tings I dont know ****,but, before doing my swap I spent hours searching and learning and preparing for my swap. This kid just dove in head first, he should have checked to see how deep the water was first.

Jason kiDD

lol, Maybe tru, but he is already there and we might as well throw him a line.. I must admit when I first started I couldnt probably change my oil without bringing the car to a shop.. But as you learn and read more you are more able to take on different challenges..

Good luck to everyone.. And get a manual for your car where possible..

JeffS

Ok, calm down a second. This IS one of the simplest swaps to do... it could be a lot worse. That said, it is NOT "plug and play". Adding wires also turns out to be harder than it sounds. First of all, you need to come up with some extra wire ends (for both the ECU side (two different kinds) and the engine side (one kind). Then, you have to figure out how to add and remove pins from the ECU and engine bay wiring blocks, which isn't easy. You then need to be able to solder wires. Twist/crimp connectors should not be trusted. Finally, you need to be able to track down wire locations using the Helms manual. For instance, the diagram above says that you need to run the "Secondary Intake Solenoid (IAB)" to A17, but it doesn't tell you where the hell the IAB is to start with. You'll need to be able to track it down and be positive that you have the right wire. It's not THAT hard, but it's really better that you figure it out yourself... first, because noone wants to spoon-feed you, and second, because you never know if that person knows what the hell they're talking about.

If this is overwhelming, I think you should try to find someone to help you. They could probably teach you a lot in the process.

I'm sorry to see everyone starting to flame you, but if you'd slow down and try to listen to everyone you'd be better off...

B_Cruz.... didn't I read that you had a shop do your swap after asking all those questions in here??? -- not flaming, just curious...

B_CRUZ!

for tracking down the wire, i thought this was gonna be difficult. but it was really easy. i used a Fluke. its that voltage meter thing . it was very easy.


Yes i had a shop change my timing belt, water pump, clutch and flywheel. and they dropped the motor. i did my own wiring which saved me a lot of money. plus i would like to have the satisfaction of knowing that the wiring was soldered. (BTW i have some extra ECU pins left over if anyone is interested). I could of dropped the motor in myself but after getting a price quote for renting a compressor, cherry picker, and actually taking time off work to do all of this(change the flywheel clutch, timing belt and water pump and the skunk2 manifold) i just rather spent $400 and get it done a lot faster on a lift.


[Modified by B_Cruz, 1:11 PM 5/23/2002]

JeffS

I've got an engine hoist sitting in my garage now just taking up space. I'm pretty sure I'll use it again though.

B_CRUZ!

well i'm only renting a house so if, for some reason, i end up living in a apartment, i wouldn't have to worry about putting it somewhere.