GrimLude

I just went yesterday and bought a 99 si with a B18c1 swap, it started and ran fine on the test drive then on the way taking it home I heard clanking in the lower end and a loss of power. I immediately shut it down and the seller refunded a large chunk of the money and i had it towed home. I am pretty sure it spun a bearing so I plan to pull the motor to have it rebuilt. My question is the local reputable tuner shop wants around $3,000 to do a performance short block. I would rather send it out to a reputable engine builder that can take the entire engine and rebuild it from ground up. I have been out of the honda game for a while now, does anyone have recommendations as to who could do the work?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

$3k will buy an ITR longblock. $1800ish will buy a GSR long block

Mag00n

Get si/gsr longblock on hmotors and have a good shop install it

GrimLude

what long block would you go with the, b18c with enough to blow on a nice rmf header or b18c1 with money to blow on cams and header?

B_Swapped93

B20...bored out to 85mm a complete b20 is like 400-500$max 85x89mm 11:5:1 C/R can be done for the same price as a gsr long bock and would be a lot more powerful.

Leland

If he gets a b20/ls he's going to have a lot of other stuff to deal with. It would be best for him to grab a gsr/b18c and just swap them out and use the old engine to build on the side should he decide to do so...

GrimLude

I will note that this car is not my daily driver and was a car I picked up for a work in progress build to finish by summer, I also left out that i want about 200whp. That being said I just read bam bams B20Vtec guide, realistically I think I could do that build tuned, cammed, and rmf header for around 4,500 , another thing to be noted though is that this motor as of right now is assumed rebuild-able as I shut it down immediately, I wont know for sure until I get an above freezing day to pull the motor and remove the bottom end to see the damage done. I did some google foo and found ERL performance short block as well is $2,400... But I would have to ask if any one knows if there good to go. The head I could always send out for a clean up and new valves and springs and refresh, I guess realistically if I wait to tax time I would have about $4,500 to play with. That being said would you do b20vtec or b18c1 ERL with supporting internal mods to get to 200whp? The question makes my head hurt

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Lol...this dude's response to any question is the exact same B20 setup.

I'd keep it simple, personally. Look on a reputable site and pick a good motor. Www.jdmenginescorp.com has been good to me. I've bought a few engines and transmissions there. Always very clean stuff. Not too far off the "clean" factor of HMO.

A B18C blacktop( SIR-G/"JDM GSR") longblock is fairly inexpensive and makes 180hp. A B18C red top (ITR) is a better motor over all in terms of potential from bolt ons and cams. It also makes 20 more horsepower right off the bat.

Costs differ, obviously.

GrimLude

just called hmo and got the price of a type r and its well within the budget I think I am going to go that route as I am pretty sure with a rmf header, cams, and a decent tune i can get close to 200whp

B_Swapped93

Maybe that's because I enjoy my 238whp/162tq set up it was cheap to do and will be cheap to do again should I crack a sleeve.

GrimLude

How much did it cost you to do? Already have the gsr head