ricodemus

There was post kind of about this (Yes, I did a search), but someone mentioned needing to switch 2 wires, chipping the ecu with the Mugen proggy, and getting a Skunk2 IM.

I'm going to try and get an obd1 (does that even matter?) b18c1 longblock. I was going to swap over my obd0 electronics from my Gen 1 B16 (dizzy, alternator, what else?) and run with the chipped ecu on the Skunk2 IM. What I'm wondering is the wiring (sensors,etc) difference between the 2 motors and what I'm gonna have to change. the B16 has 2 o2 sensors where the b18c1 will only have 1, and the b16 has a knock sensor which the b18c1 does not, right? Thank you for your help.

Also, what do b18c1 longblocks with reasonable mileage go for?

Edit: in EF forum, good thread if anyone's curious https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=242829]


[Modified by ricodemus, 2:43 PM 8/7/2002]


[Modified by ricodemus, 8:10 AM 8/8/2002]

Jeff C

a buddy of mine has a gsr in a 4g hb and is using a pm6 (4g si obd0) with the zdyne one wire conversion...no knock sensor and one o2 sensor and is using a skunk2 mani also...the car runs great. he did buy a vafc to pump the fuel up a bit.
he paid 1200 for his c1 longblock w/o crank pulley and a motor mount bracket

dumbchild

IM'ed you back
but...
-use your B16 dizzy, alternator, and chip your ECU with the Mugen chip.
-the Mugen chip will eliminate the B16 secondary 02 sensor, knock sensor, and the rev limiter.
-the VTEC activation point on the Mugen chip is 3800 rpm (really low) so at some point you mite want to get a VAFC to raise this.
-the Skunk2 Mani will eliminate the B18c1 butterflies.
-the 2 wires on the stock ECU harness that need to be changed are the VTEC and ?? - hope someone can fill in the blank here. the VTEC one goes to the VTEC solenoid and the other one to ?? (sorry I forget...)
-altho I just had a thought that you must already have the wire running to the Vtec solenoid and the other necessary one on the B16 tho - so it might be even easier (I went straight to the B18 so I never had my car previously wired for a B16)

-I picked my b18c1 full swap up for $4000.00 CDN with a full rebuild, ITR pistons, cams, and JUN cam sprockets. This was from a buddy tho. I've seen them as high as $5800.00 CDN at the wreckers.
hope this helps...
peace

dumbchild

oh yeah - the B16 ecu chipped with the Mugen proggy will be more than enough fuel - maybe even too much - I have to lean mine out with the VAFC to pass aircare.

ricodemus

Thanks guys for the replies...I appreciate it.

ricodemus

How about if I can get my hands on a b18c block? Is that a good combo (with my b16 head)? Is that a bolt-on process (head to block)? Thanks. These b18c longblocks are steep, still wondering if its worth it.

Jeff C

i dont see why it wouldnt bolt up, they were bolt from vtec motors to begin with and the b16 is basically an unported c5 head. however, when you bolt a b16/c5 head on a c1 block it drops the compression...i think it has something to do with the combustion chamber designed on the head, but i am not exactly sure.
incase you have not seen this before, you can play with compression numbers here...
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c.../compcalc.html
what about just sleeving the b16 and punching it out a little?

ricodemus

good idea..maybe I'll by a spare b16 block, have it sleeved, bored, honed, etc. Then I'll have no down time. Get some good pistons in there, then maybe I'll be happy? bore to 83 mm? 83.5? Thats a good idea. I'll have to see the cost on that though. How much is it to bore and sleeve?

Edit: now I'm reading some archived threads and it looks like it's not a great idea for the cost to bore a b16 to 84mm. I guess I can't win here.



[Modified by ricodemus, 8:12 PM 8/8/2002]