Modmonte

Hey Guys could really use a hand with a couple issues I'm having with my swap. I've searched quite a bit the last few days and have gotten great information but am just missing some pieces.

Car & parts: 95 civic w b18c swap, skunk2 pro mani and Tb, bwr catch can set up with an lines from block and valve cover (no PVC system). Stock lower end nothing touched except new oil pump, water pump, tensioner, and tb. Brand new 2-1/2 so exhaust I made while waiting on the head. Mugen header, vibrant hug cat, and vibrant muffler.

Upon initial start up in January I noticed lots of water vapor and white smoke. Compression test was around 150 - 160, leak down was not done. Sputtered and ran rough so I pulled the head and sent it to 4piston to get resurfaced, valve job, new super tech valves, springs, retainers, and seals. Had a previous port job that was cleaned up nothing major.

Fast forward to the past week and ive got it all assembled. Installed new arp bolts, je pro seal head gasket, s2 cam seal and vtec solenoid. All othet gaskets are new oem. Torqued bolts according to arp spec and Honda sequence.

Car fires up again but with the slightest amount of hesitation, and I've got a ton of water vapor and the is a white smoke/fog pouring out exhaust.

Started diagnostics and did a compression test dry:
1-265 psi
2-270
3-279
4-262

Leak Down test (morning cold):
1-7%
2-20%
3-10%
4-20%

Completed 3 tests with lisle combustion leak detector all cam back negative. Blue chemical remained blue, through 2-3 minute spans.

Car is unable to be driven yet as I'm finishing up suspension, but has about 6 heat cycles with minimal coolant loss (purging yet?), and no over heating. Only cel is a 21 but think that's in my wiring harness.

Is seeing all this condensation/smoke/water from the tail lipke going to warrent me taking this all apart or am I over reacting? I dont know any more tests to do other than some road time. any advice is appreciated.

Modmonte

Update: Just ran the car for another 20 minutes or so and now noticed that the exhaust pluses very nicely with the exception of a one time burp out of it (came in intervals of about 45-60 seconds), which seems to coincide with a slight rise in idle for that moment. Also found an oil pan gasket leak but not sure if it's related.

Again any and all help is appreciated!

Happy Independence day!

Modmonte

Anyone have any ideas...?

Think all I can do with head on yet is to re-torque head bolts and re check.

If I take head off then it's time to check deck flatness and get a closer look at the sleeves. Never really checked before so if anyone has suggestions or any other ideas I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!

K7-1Ktrevor

I think you maybe overthinking/ over reacting. Unless its smoking Like a choo choo I wouldn't sweat it. Go take it for a spin, keep an eye on temps and check oil level regularly. Most cold motors will have water vapor coming out of the exhaust.

Modmonte

K7-1Ktrevor I really appreciate the response and thought that may be the case. I tightened up the tie rods and sent it for a hot lap, no toe or camber set and sent it.... still smoking like a mad man. The exhaust is very white and very wet, and now there is a slight burp (almost like a backfire) about every 40 -50 seconds. Everyone I know mentioned residual in the piping or muffler, but I've ran it for 3 solid heat cycles now and then some. This morning I even let it run for about 45 minutes but still smoking. I have two exhaust paths in the car, one with high flow vibrant resonator to the muffler and out the tail pipe and the other goes from resonator straight out the second tail pipe. I've got an electronic cutout between the two and even when I switch it to the no-muffler side it comes out very white and wet as well.

I did some more research and came across quite a few instances where people have used ARP studs and had incorrect torque readings due to the washer spinning. I was a little perplexed as I work on plenty of Pro-Mods that use ARP fasteners and have never heard of such a thing. I did remember two of the head studs breaking free at around 60 ft/lbs of torque then needing quite a bit more rotation to hit torque. Called ARP and they confirmed this to be a challenge with fresh heads, and there not being enough friction between the washer and head, causing the washer to spin, and acting like a bearing for the nut. In an attempt to not unseat the headgasket, I took each stud out one by one and sanded the washers like they recommended to create a better grabbing surface. I installed and re-torqued and everything went back in with only the slightest amount of spin and I felt much more confident with the torque readings.

Set timing, installed valve cover, topped off fluids and started her up. All was looking good until it hit operating temp and like a crazy ex the smoke was back, and she brought all the smoke again.

I'm going to have my brother take a look this weekend as he's got some engine building experience on some hemi and 481x motors so I'll get his input. After that my best bet is to do a leak down test with a better tester then pull the head and and check the block for warping. Getting pissed that this car is not on the road yet......any other ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for the response K7-1Ktrevor

K7-1Ktrevor

Do you know what it's burning oil or coolant? Should be pretty easy to detect coolant burning with your nose. Kind of odd it wasn't burning till it got to operating temp.

if you can post a high definition pic of all 4 spark plugs in order as well.

Modmonte

Hey K7-1Ktrevor, I really appreciate your response and putting some thought into this with me. Sorry it's been a moment, I bought a house two weeks ago and the move and garage work has kept me from my civic.

I think I'm on the same thought process as you. Right when I towed the car over I decided to start it up quick and let it run to operating temp again and gave her a couple good revs, but nothing crazy. More water was coming out of the exhaust but didn't over heat. I then quick killed it, and pulled plugs immediately so I could check for any steam coming out of a cylinder, no steam but cylinder #1 plug looked a little white. I pulled the three others and they looked just fine, took them all over to my work bench and right as I walked over I busted my **** losing them and the order. I plan on putting them back in this weekend and giving it another fire and will report back.

Let me throw this at you though, I have a Mishimoto radiator and hoses, going to a stock type r thermostat, and a brand new heater core as well as all other coolant lines straight from Honda. I also have a sealed aftermarket overflow tank with NO CAP. From the radiator I ran a -3an line to a -3an fitting on the overflow tank. The hoses get really hard and I'm wondering if this may have an effect on the pressures, since I don't have a traditional expansion tank with a cap?? Any thoughts there?

Thanks again!