forbiddenera

So I just got a '95 CX that came with a b18b1 for $600.

Runs and drives pretty damn good, pulls hard. Previous owner seemed to take pretty good care of it, handed me a folder with at least $2000+ of work over the 10 or so years he owned it (timing belt, fart can exhaust replaced with something more OE, new clutch, new valve cover gasket, new ball joints and control arms and more I don't remember..)

While 'pretty damn good' is nice, it's far from perfect.

The car BOGS hard when engine load is high and RPMs are low. I haven't gone WOT in this situation to see if it improves, it doesn't feel like it will and it bogs so hard sometimes I'm actually scared to go WOT.

Decrease load or increase RPMs and bog goes away and ZIPZIPZIP.. For the most part I can drive normal... Seems like this happens under 2500rpm but more under 2000rpm.. If load is higher I believe RPMs can be around 3200 even and still bog. I haven't tested much or done ANYTHING under the hood, yet as I've only owned the car 6 hours, it's Christmas and damn cold.

Seems to idle fine mostly, had a bit of a time getting it started earlier due to a partly flat battery and -20 deg C weather.

Did seem a little low at one point earlier, like 500rpm on the gauge. I will be getting Neptune and a Demonv2 ASAP so I'll be able to datalog.

Wondering if maybe the IACV and the other one (can't remember it's late) are swapped? I've read before sometimes people screw that up since they're the same plug.. Could explain crappy cold start and bogging maybe? PO said it never liked cold starts.

Any ideas? I'm going to pull the plugs ASAP and see what kind of story they're telling. Probably will put new ones, cap, rotor, maybe wires.

I have no idea what ECU is being used ATM or what kind of wiring was done in the swap, whether it was custom or adapter harnesses. I believe this car stock had the same motor as my Sedan (D15B7). I have a chipped P28 which should work as there's no knock on these? I'd have to run a program with VTEC disabled. I wont run this ECU until I get neptune, obv.

There's absolutely no provision on these blocks for a knock right? I think I briefly read something about one lsvtec having a knock but again it's late, I may be confused, maybe it wasn't this block. I wouldn't mind having a knock sensor for some extra safety margin but probably don't really need one.

I'm also considering doing the GSR head on this for LSVTEC with the GE kit. Will bump the compression when I do this and then after that's stable, turbo!

This car will be my next rally car eventually, I do believe.

HondaPartsHero

Why ECU does it have? Check engine light on?

xclusivedanny1

is it throwing a check engine light? if so thats the first thing to check.

forbiddenera

No CEL/MIL under any conditions. I haven't checked for stored codes or even which ECU I'm running. Bogging seems to come and go a bit, it resolved itself for a bit last night but while it wasn't bogging, I think torque was lower than it should be.

I'm guessing it was concerted to ODB1. I do not know if the cluster was replaced, it has a cruise light and no cruise, my auto did not have this nor a tach.

forbiddenera

Going to pull plugs today probably and check which ECU and look for any stored codes

Caoboy

It's a 95 CX, it wouldn't be converted to OBD1 as it already is OBD1.

If you are going to replace your plugs and wires/cap/rotor, do so with OEM Honda parts. It's just better than what is out there at the local parts stores.

forbiddenera

I didn't notice any quality issues with what I got for my sohc zc and d15b7, didnboth of those..

The engine is from a 99 integra thus was odb2, this is what I meant, that the engine was 'converted'.

forbiddenera

To do that, they would have used.. odb1 dizzy..what else?

forbiddenera

Okay..so.. I haven't looked to see if it was wired manually or what.. I'm wondering whst if anything was changed? It's got a ******* d series distributor held in with only the top bolt (and spewing oil all around it) and a P06 ecu, don't know if it's chipped, I almost doubt it.

So, I need an odb1 b series dizzy. I have a chipped p28, can anyone burn me a basemap for a b18b1?

forbiddenera

Pics attached... for sure tis time!


The dizzy is only attached by the top bolt. The other two don't even come close to kining up.

I guess this answers the question of CAN you use a d dizzy on a b? Google says no, my car says yes. The answer to SHOULD YOU should be obvious. Anyone got an odb1 b dizzy for me?

Caoboy

Those plugs definitely need to be replaced.

Wires probably should be as well.

You should change out the distributor to the correct b series OEM one, if you need any components for it, most of the stuff swaps over. IC/ICM/cap/rotor can all swap over, so save that D series distributor for parts.

That ECU is not correct, you need to be running an obd1 P75.

P06 is the SOHC ecu...smh. Good thing you only paid $600 for it, you're probably going to find more stuff you'll need to spend money on to get it 'fixed'.

forbiddenera

Plugs are replaced on the EH, lol. Have odb1 b18b1 dizzy in hand for $40.

I have a chipped ecu (p28) and someone local who will burn me the correct map for the b18b1, I may even try it before it the new rom gets burned as it's setup for a b16a which is a little closer than a d15b7 (lol at least its a 2cam map), I know it's going to throw a code for the missing vtec but I can deal with that for the short period of time it will be before burning a new chip.

Guessing the guy used all / most d series sensors .. I know all the sensors bolt on either really, but otherwise is there any difference? For example, is a b map sensor (or any other) better than a d for any particular purpose? TPS have same output ramps, etc?

Oh, and I've barely driven it and the exhaust has sprung a leak. It sounded so nice before, but, the PO had the aftermarket exhaust replaced, said it was a fartcan, had it done at crappy tire (Canadian tire).. Actually appreciated this fact at first, til it started leaking.. have to lift and look. Probably will have a decent exhaust made locally, though I might buy a kit. I do want it sectional and bolted together everywhere not sure a shop wont just make one long peice or just a few..

The suspension is waay stiffer than my EG and it handles better. Haven't looked yet to see whats there. Strut bar is nice to have even if it's not the nicest one.

Stereo is garbage, rear deck has 6x9s tho. Seats need replacing. This will probably be more of an occasional driver/rally car anyway maybe than a dd, that's what my EG 4dr sedan is for.

forbiddenera

Update.. I have my own Willem burner now and Crome dealer edition. I tried burning a gold map but importing the tables from the p75 base map didn't go over so well and it didn't run as good as I wanted so I went back to the p75 base map on the p72 base with some added features (2-stage, MIL shift light) for now and it runs great. Bogging is gone completely!

Also replaced the d-dizzy with a proper b-series distributor. Got one that basically looked brand new for $40 local. Threw on some plug nice wires I grabbed a while back.

Changed the oil. Spent 4 hours trying to get the f*cking oil filter off. I've done about 300 oil changes and this was the most stubborn m*f* yet and it was only done maybe a year ago? Sticker said to do it in August and at more KMs than I'm currently at - might go to the crappy lube shop and tear them one for putting it on so damn tight.

Haven't filled a second time for a calculation but I'm already at more kms on one tank (same size tank) than my D15B7 EG Sedan ever got, which makes me wonder.. Yeah, the sedan is an AT but it shouldn't tank the mileage THAT bad..? Other than that it was running beautifully, I decided to park it for now though as it was hit a little while ago and needs fixing, so the hatch is now my dd.

Ripped like 300 wires out of the car today as well. Removed the brain for the 20 year old alpine security system. Still gotta tear out a bunch of the wires, might just leave some there for now. Found a really interesting connector on my wiring harness that looks like a data connector, almost like an OBD2 one but smaller, near the steering wheel..? Never saw that before, and the data connector is beside the service connector and 3 pins..so whats this? it's got like 15 pins. I'll post a pic later.

Ripped out the crappy deck - some dumbass cut the vehicle side harness, so now I'm going to go get one and wire it in. This car never had rear speakers but now has a rear deck with 6x9s that were wired in by the same crappy person. Gonna redo the wires. There's a blue light under the glove box too and some crappy fogs. Removed all the wiring, removing the fogs to replace with nice ones and will re-do interior lighting soon.

The only part of the wiring that was done right (well the security system looks like it was done professionally at least, but it's being removed) - the wiring to the rear amp - 4 gauge wire off the battery to a phoenix gold switchable breaker box, 3x2 RCAs were run even though 2/3 pairs were never used (just sub).

Horn doesn't work, still haven't figured out why - looks like it's disconnected and I can't find the wire anywhere - there's two near it but neither work. I also wonder if the contact in the steering wheel is done.

Car did come with a second set of rims, aluminum jwl wheels with vw caps? lol..

Has a crap cone filter and I found K&N cleaner and oil in the back...I have a feeling this guy oiled the dry filter thinking it was a K&N..UGH!

Lots of squeaks, no body lube ever?

Will post some pics shortly and another update tomorrow.