soon2beB00stedSOL

OK, I bought a B17 block that I'm building, and I'm ready to start building it now so I just wanna check on a few things.

I bought the block bare, so I'll be using B16 Mains, Crank, B16 spec Eagle rods, and B16 spec wiseco Pistons. I have a few B18A thing Laying around that fit but I just wanna make sure they're ok to use.

B18A -Rear main seal housing, water tube, and thermostat housing, oil windage tray, and oil pan. The pan I know I'll get flamed on for asking about, but the other stuff I just wanna be sure. The water tube lines up and fits, and the rear main seal housing does also, just seems like where the bolts go, there's a little on the block that sticks out some. The bolt holes line up though.

OK, one more question... Is stroking this motor possible? For example... using a crank with a taller stroke with shorter rods, or custom height pistons, or anything like that? I know it's possible in B18's with B20 cranks, but what about the b17?

Haha, ok I lied, this is my las question... Stock bore is 81mm... so is boring stock sleeves to 82mm pushing it if I'm going forced induction? I'm debating between 81.5mm or 82mm. Planning on running the forged internals mentioned earlier, with about 12-15psi daily. Thanks for any help!

soon2beB00stedSOL

damn... I post like 20 questions, and not a single answer?!?!?

NJIN BUILDR

A b17 is a stroked b16.A b17 crank and rods will give you a little more displacement.The ls parts you listed will work.In my opinion your better getting a ls/vtec or gsr/itr than stroking your b16/17.I would bore/hone only enough to get the bore straight and round 81.25 or 81.5.The little bit you get by going 82mm is not worth it.You can easily get 320-350 hp reliably with a b16.

FuLLysPOoLedB17

sounds good man, thanks for the input. The main reason I'm going B17 is B/C No one else around here has it. I know a Lot of other people have em, but they're a lot less common than B16's or LS VTEC swaps etc. Oh and the reason I'm not going with the B17 rods, is B/C they're so expensive. I was told I could I could use B16 internals with custom height pistons for less than I would pay for B16 rods

NJIN BUILDR

The block and head are the same as a B16 (pr-3).The only difference in the block is they stamp B17 on the id area instead of B16.

FuLLysPOoLedB17

haha, I meant B17 rods. Yea, That's what I've been told. That's what I like about it... Just the B17A1 stamp. People around here see it and ask what the hell it is right away. I'd like to just Save up some and sleeve it eventually, then it would make a difference whether it were a B17, b16, b18, or a b20. Thanks for your input though... I'll probaby only be going about 81.25mm now, since I was told the sleeves are fine as-is from the guy I bought the block from. I just wanna be safe.

BTW: I did notice the "PR3" stamped on each of the main bearing journals on the block. That's when I really realized it was a b16 "stroker"

Essenar83

I've always been interested in the B17A1.

I saw a B16 CRX get the **** smoked out of it by a DA with a B17A1, authentic 92 GSR. I was like wtf because they had identical mods and the CRX ran a 14.8.

FuLLysPOoLedB17

my guess would just be, it was the torque. I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing a b17 probably has a bit more torque than a b16, that probably gave the DA a big jump to begin with.