Ask your H22 Questions Here
03-31-2006, 08:39 AM
#1251
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Re: (Oclooc)
Really, there isnt any cons, i put my h22a in a 4 door lx 95, and it hauls serious ***, now i just need a new tune, bog n **** under 3k rpm, but tehre sint any con's just make sure u have time and patience.
03-31-2006, 10:26 AM
#1253
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It cant be a con at all...heavier car and a motor that gets tons more torque...and there is not much weight difference so tell them blah blah blah blah...h owns their ****
03-31-2006, 10:38 AM
#1254
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Better flowing head. Larger displacement...the only con i see is the whole transmission issuse some of these people have been having. But now with the H2B adapter i dont see no reason to complain now. A strong powerband blah blah blah....tell the people on b20vtec they need to do some more research 
03-31-2006, 11:10 AM
#1255
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Im gonna do my intake this weekend and wire the vtec.. I have ordered the conversion harness also.. I want to put the fpr in and mess with some things already..... Cant wait to get the cams tuned!!!!!
03-31-2006, 11:40 AM
#1257
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Hey I did an H22 J-spec motor swap into my eg a few months back. Ever since I have had TPS check engine light.
I can play around with the TPS and fast idle screw to get the engine to idle at about 900 RPM. However this will sometime change and the car will begin to idle very low, say 400RPM.
If the engine is left sitting for over 10hrs and is started up, it will fire right up and then RPM's will drop and then stall. Fire the car up again, runs fine then wait about 10sec's and the CEL comes on again.
I've tried 3 different TPS's all meter fine. If I set the TPS to the suggested resistance the car will idle at about 1500 RPM.
Only other issue with the car is that it may give vibration under heavy acceleration sometimes. But if you ease on the throttle to WOT no vibration. So, I'm thinking the issue might be related to an air fuel mapping problem since the ecu isn't reading everything properly yet (using jdm p13) quite right yet.
Also have no egr, cruise, or that prelude idle air box thing hooked up, have all those lines just plugged. Do have the IAB hooked up however and it works fine.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
No matter what I do I can't get rid of the stupid TPS code.
I've been thinking of just getting it dyno tuned w/uber data and new air fuel maps. Don't know if this is a good idea or not though.
Please help me, driving me crazy.
I can play around with the TPS and fast idle screw to get the engine to idle at about 900 RPM. However this will sometime change and the car will begin to idle very low, say 400RPM.
If the engine is left sitting for over 10hrs and is started up, it will fire right up and then RPM's will drop and then stall. Fire the car up again, runs fine then wait about 10sec's and the CEL comes on again.
I've tried 3 different TPS's all meter fine. If I set the TPS to the suggested resistance the car will idle at about 1500 RPM.
Only other issue with the car is that it may give vibration under heavy acceleration sometimes. But if you ease on the throttle to WOT no vibration. So, I'm thinking the issue might be related to an air fuel mapping problem since the ecu isn't reading everything properly yet (using jdm p13) quite right yet.
Also have no egr, cruise, or that prelude idle air box thing hooked up, have all those lines just plugged. Do have the IAB hooked up however and it works fine.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
No matter what I do I can't get rid of the stupid TPS code.
I've been thinking of just getting it dyno tuned w/uber data and new air fuel maps. Don't know if this is a good idea or not though.
Please help me, driving me crazy.
03-31-2006, 01:48 PM
#1258
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Re: (Oclooc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oclooc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any inout on a good set of cam gears?????? BDL?????</TD></TR></TABLE>
skunk 2 proseries look awesome and come in titanium, but the regular skunk2 cam gears are really nice. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by l8tnitcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey I did an H22 J-spec motor swap into my eg a few months back. Ever since I have had TPS check engine light.
I can play around with the TPS and fast idle screw to get the engine to idle at about 900 RPM. However this will sometime change and the car will begin to idle very low, say 400RPM.
If the engine is left sitting for over 10hrs and is started up, it will fire right up and then RPM's will drop and then stall. Fire the car up again, runs fine then wait about 10sec's and the CEL comes on again.
I've tried 3 different TPS's all meter fine. If I set the TPS to the suggested resistance the car will idle at about 1500 RPM.
Only other issue with the car is that it may give vibration under heavy acceleration sometimes. But if you ease on the throttle to WOT no vibration. So, I'm thinking the issue might be related to an air fuel mapping problem since the ecu isn't reading everything properly yet (using jdm p13) quite right yet.
Also have no egr, cruise, or that prelude idle air box thing hooked up, have all those lines just plugged. Do have the IAB hooked up however and it works fine.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
No matter what I do I can't get rid of the stupid TPS code.
I've been thinking of just getting it dyno tuned w/uber data and new air fuel maps. Don't know if this is a good idea or not though.
Please help me, driving me crazy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why dont you recalibrate the tps to what its suppose to be. When butterfly is closed the middle wire should be at .45-.5 volts. Then mess with the idle screw to bring the idle down to the desired rpm's and sell that p13 and run a p28 or p72.
skunk 2 proseries look awesome and come in titanium, but the regular skunk2 cam gears are really nice. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by l8tnitcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey I did an H22 J-spec motor swap into my eg a few months back. Ever since I have had TPS check engine light.
I can play around with the TPS and fast idle screw to get the engine to idle at about 900 RPM. However this will sometime change and the car will begin to idle very low, say 400RPM.
If the engine is left sitting for over 10hrs and is started up, it will fire right up and then RPM's will drop and then stall. Fire the car up again, runs fine then wait about 10sec's and the CEL comes on again.
I've tried 3 different TPS's all meter fine. If I set the TPS to the suggested resistance the car will idle at about 1500 RPM.
Only other issue with the car is that it may give vibration under heavy acceleration sometimes. But if you ease on the throttle to WOT no vibration. So, I'm thinking the issue might be related to an air fuel mapping problem since the ecu isn't reading everything properly yet (using jdm p13) quite right yet.
Also have no egr, cruise, or that prelude idle air box thing hooked up, have all those lines just plugged. Do have the IAB hooked up however and it works fine.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
No matter what I do I can't get rid of the stupid TPS code.
I've been thinking of just getting it dyno tuned w/uber data and new air fuel maps. Don't know if this is a good idea or not though.
Please help me, driving me crazy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why dont you recalibrate the tps to what its suppose to be. When butterfly is closed the middle wire should be at .45-.5 volts. Then mess with the idle screw to bring the idle down to the desired rpm's and sell that p13 and run a p28 or p72.
03-31-2006, 02:11 PM
#1259
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Hey guys why dont we all just go ahead and buy these combos and see who can drive the best?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
03-31-2006, 02:20 PM
#1260
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Re: (vtecspeed1320)
Ok, installed tensioner bracket and started car, it sounded ok and started up quick. I took it for a ride and all the lights started going dim, then my rpm guage went out, speedo went out, wipers slowly die, and eventually the car shuts off. I put another alternator on and the same thing happened. Also, when I went to rev it up, it sputters. I am getting no cel's. Any ideas would be appreciated.
03-31-2006, 05:13 PM
#1261
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Re: (SixguN)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SixguN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, installed tensioner bracket and started car, it sounded ok and started up quick. I took it for a ride and all the lights started going dim, then my rpm guage went out, speedo went out, wipers slowly die, and eventually the car shuts off. I put another alternator on and the same thing happened. Also, when I went to rev it up, it sputters. I am getting no cel's. Any ideas would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you still have that eld cel? how did you get rid of it? is your alternator bracket tight so its acutally spinnning? did you remember to hook up all your grounds and make sure you put that ground back to the fuse box?
do you still have that eld cel? how did you get rid of it? is your alternator bracket tight so its acutally spinnning? did you remember to hook up all your grounds and make sure you put that ground back to the fuse box?
03-31-2006, 05:46 PM
#1262
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Re: (SixguN)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SixguN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, installed tensioner bracket and started car, it sounded ok and started up quick. I took it for a ride and all the lights started going dim, then my rpm guage went out, speedo went out, wipers slowly die, and eventually the car shuts off. I put another alternator on and the same thing happened. Also, when I went to rev it up, it sputters. I am getting no cel's. Any ideas would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like your charging system isn't working. I would check you harness and make sure it was lengthened correctly. They're maybe a blown fuse as well...
sounds like your charging system isn't working. I would check you harness and make sure it was lengthened correctly. They're maybe a blown fuse as well...
03-31-2006, 06:02 PM
#1263
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Re: (skunked)
JDM '94 H22...what dizzy cap/rotor do I get? 90-93 accord cap and 92-95 civic rotor? just wanted to make sure i remember, its been so long since i last replaced them.
03-31-2006, 06:07 PM
#1264
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sounds like your charging system isn't working. I would check you harness and make sure it was lengthened correctly. They're maybe a blown fuse as well...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am going to look it over and check fuses right now.
sounds like your charging system isn't working. I would check you harness and make sure it was lengthened correctly. They're maybe a blown fuse as well...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am going to look it over and check fuses right now.
04-01-2006, 05:20 AM
#1265
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hey, how much would you *********** be willing to pay for an F20B tranny?
A while ago I read about a prelude that hit 13.7 with a fairly basic i/h/e setup and an F20B tranny.. So i'm sure the gearing is quite agressive?
A while ago I read about a prelude that hit 13.7 with a fairly basic i/h/e setup and an F20B tranny.. So i'm sure the gearing is quite agressive?
04-01-2006, 06:40 AM
#1266
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Re: (2point2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, how much would you *********** be willing to pay for an F20B tranny?
A while ago I read about a prelude that hit 13.7 with a fairly basic i/h/e setup and an F20B tranny.. So i'm sure the gearing is quite agressive?</TD></TR></TABLE>
with LSD right? 1K-1200 if I had the need.
A while ago I read about a prelude that hit 13.7 with a fairly basic i/h/e setup and an F20B tranny.. So i'm sure the gearing is quite agressive?</TD></TR></TABLE>
with LSD right? 1K-1200 if I had the need.
04-01-2006, 07:17 AM
#1267
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with LSD right? 1K-1200 if I had the need.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yikes..
yes, euro r... hopefully the guy doesnt see this thread 'cause i offered significantly less....
yikes..
yes, euro r... hopefully the guy doesnt see this thread 'cause i offered significantly less....
04-01-2006, 08:03 AM
#1268
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Re: (2point2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yikes..
yes, euro r... hopefully the guy doesnt see this thread 'cause i offered significantly less.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Similar product/price to an ITR box really. However the ITR boxs are readily available....
Good luck on the low ball.....nothing wrong with trying in my book
yikes..
yes, euro r... hopefully the guy doesnt see this thread 'cause i offered significantly less....
</TD></TR></TABLE>Similar product/price to an ITR box really. However the ITR boxs are readily available....
Good luck on the low ball.....nothing wrong with trying in my book
04-01-2006, 06:31 PM
#1272
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Re: (vtecspeed1320)
Got a question for you guys. I have a buddy who has a 93 dx civic that will not start. It is getting spark, it is in time, and it is getting fuel. Hell I even sprayed starting fluid in the IM to be sure the fuel had enough octane to start and still no luck. Any ideas?
04-01-2006, 07:43 PM
#1274
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (BigBlockH22atch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigBlockH22atch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got a question for you guys. I have a buddy who has a 93 dx civic that will not start. It is getting spark, it is in time, and it is getting fuel. Hell I even sprayed starting fluid in the IM to be sure the fuel had enough octane to start and still no luck. Any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need 4 things to start a engine: Fuel, Spark, timing (both cam and ignition), and compression. You have spark and fuel, you need to check timing and compression.
Bad gas maybe?
You need 4 things to start a engine: Fuel, Spark, timing (both cam and ignition), and compression. You have spark and fuel, you need to check timing and compression.
Bad gas maybe?
04-01-2006, 10:03 PM
#1275
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Re: (Turbogixxer)
My car still runs ruff and I don't want to take it for a drive anymore untill it stops making little backfires every 5-7 seconds. Sometimes it won't start and I can smell gas, like it is flooding, but I am not pushing down on the gas. Lights still go dim after a while and car shuts off when you take it for a drive. Speedo still doesn't work either. Timing is on correct also.