ARGH! B18b gas mileage sucks in EG!
#1
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ARGH! B18b gas mileage sucks in EG!
A lot of people I know can only get 20/24 mpg out of a b18b swap into an eg, and I know that the same engine gets roughly 30 in the dc's, even with i/h/e. Is there something I'm missing? Or is that just what I should expect out of this swap?
#2
Re: ARGH! B18b gas mileage sucks in EG! (jeef84)
I had a b18a in my crx and would get great gas milleage between 30-35 mpg. It had an intake, exhaust, headers and cams. had great milleage until I added a fuel presure regulator. Then the car would only get 25-30mpg. Now I have the b20b went back to the stock crx regulator and it sometimes gets almost 40 mpg.
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Re: (jaybee)
i have a b18b in my sol that gets aprox 23 mpg in the city with an si tranny. Only mods being i/e/ and chiped ecu. The engine only has @40,xxx miles and recently had a full tune up. I consider it good being that I shift at 4 grand quite a good bit. With the old ls tranny I got @ 27-30 on the highway.
#6
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Theres nothing mysterious about bad gas mileage, check the obvious things. Dirty air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, routine maintenance things. "chipped" ecu...
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Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres nothing mysterious about bad gas mileage, check the obvious things. Dirty air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, routine maintenance things. "chipped" ecu...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also check your tire pressure, keep it at 32-35 psi.
Also check your tire pressure, keep it at 32-35 psi.
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#8
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Re: (BeavisB16)
Also check your oxygen sensor. Bad oxygen sensors (ot even the complete absence of one!) do not cause the motor to run bad. But fuel economy WILL suffer.
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Re: (RotiEatter)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm getting about 24mpg with my H22.... something is wrong with your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol, stop gassing it so much and you'd get 30mpg like i do.
Lol, stop gassing it so much and you'd get 30mpg like i do.
#11
Ditto
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Re: (DarkKnight1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol, stop gassing it so much and you'd get 30mpg like i do. </TD></TR></TABLE>
****, gotta hit vtec once a tank yO! hahaha
****, gotta hit vtec once a tank yO! hahaha
#12
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Re: (RotiEatter)
Well see, that's what is so crazy about it. It's a new motor (not really new but 60k) with a brand new head i.e. 0 miles on it. I had the same type of motor before, and I was having the same problem. If I'm correct, 02 sensors don't throw codes all the time, right? So is there another way to check it?
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Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when o2 sensors are bad, or the wiring is incorrect, they throw codes...</TD></TR></TABLE>
An oxygen sensor can be weak and not throw a code.
An oxygen sensor can be weak and not throw a code.
#16
Re: (SkRiBLaH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkRiBLaH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF i beat the **** out of my JDM B16A i/h/e and got 36mpg on a long trip
around town and **** i get about 28-31</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wish I had ur b16a
around town and **** i get about 28-31</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wish I had ur b16a
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Re: (StorminMatt)
I have zero experience with honda tuning but hopefully I can contribute.
There is a way to check o2 voltage. Get a digital multi-meter, Then splice into the signal wire. Make sure that the wire is long enough to mount the multi-meter in a visible place, ie- dash. Then, set the meter to millivolts, (mv). You should see something like .000 with the car shut off . Then start the car. The o2's should stay pretty consistant while the car warms up (only if cold) probably somewhere in the .300 range.
Now its time to go drive around. You might want to have a friend in the car to help moniter the o2 voltage if your not used to closely monitoring something while driving. The update rate on the multimeter will affect the amount of readings that you see versus what the ECU sees. If its an obd2 the ECU will probably see at least 20 frames per second. You will never see that but you can get a nice idea from your meter.
Anyways- the voltage ( numbers) should go up and down. Something like this:
.102, .730, .432, .660, .243.... and so on. This would GENERALLY demonstrate readings of a good o2 sensor. There is a lean/ rich line around .462. The line should be crossed at least every 4th reading. This should be seen with normal driving.
If you have a bad, or lazy, o2 sensor- the voltage will look more like this:
.530, .540, .525, .532, .475, .536, .523... ect. There will be little change in the consecutive frames. This will happen during normal driving.
When you mash the gas- it should be a little different. It should hold more steady, like a .050 difference in range maximum. Like begin at .850 at say 4000rpm, and drop to .830 at redline. This wide-open throttle tuning is definately my biggest area of uncertainty. Some people like it rich some like it lean.
I really don't know how honda sets up there ECU's but this should be a basic way of checking an o2 sensor.
The o2 sensor's job is short term fuel corrections.
Everyone, this is my first post so go easy on me. Please feel free to make any corrections if I just posted bad information.
-Ryan
There is a way to check o2 voltage. Get a digital multi-meter, Then splice into the signal wire. Make sure that the wire is long enough to mount the multi-meter in a visible place, ie- dash. Then, set the meter to millivolts, (mv). You should see something like .000 with the car shut off . Then start the car. The o2's should stay pretty consistant while the car warms up (only if cold) probably somewhere in the .300 range.
Now its time to go drive around. You might want to have a friend in the car to help moniter the o2 voltage if your not used to closely monitoring something while driving. The update rate on the multimeter will affect the amount of readings that you see versus what the ECU sees. If its an obd2 the ECU will probably see at least 20 frames per second. You will never see that but you can get a nice idea from your meter.
Anyways- the voltage ( numbers) should go up and down. Something like this:
.102, .730, .432, .660, .243.... and so on. This would GENERALLY demonstrate readings of a good o2 sensor. There is a lean/ rich line around .462. The line should be crossed at least every 4th reading. This should be seen with normal driving.
If you have a bad, or lazy, o2 sensor- the voltage will look more like this:
.530, .540, .525, .532, .475, .536, .523... ect. There will be little change in the consecutive frames. This will happen during normal driving.
When you mash the gas- it should be a little different. It should hold more steady, like a .050 difference in range maximum. Like begin at .850 at say 4000rpm, and drop to .830 at redline. This wide-open throttle tuning is definately my biggest area of uncertainty. Some people like it rich some like it lean.
I really don't know how honda sets up there ECU's but this should be a basic way of checking an o2 sensor.
The o2 sensor's job is short term fuel corrections.
Everyone, this is my first post so go easy on me. Please feel free to make any corrections if I just posted bad information.
-Ryan
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Re: (BoostAddict231)
Maybe i missed it but what ecu are you running, i have a b20b with a stock ls ecu and i get 26-27 on the street and its really cold out over here. With a chipped civic ecu running uberdata with a ls bin i was getting 22-23. Not sure if it helps but the oem p75 ecu will net you better gas milage in the end. If your running that ecu already i would just due a basic tune up and check the o2 like mentioned before.
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