accord/h22a question
10-01-2003, 07:00 PM
#1
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accord/h22a question
well my friend is going to put a h22a in to his 1990 honda accord and he wanted to know if he can use the accord harness or the h22a harness
thanks for your time
ismael
thanks for your time
ismael
10-02-2003, 12:39 PM
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can you guys please help me out and give me a list off what he is going to need and extend and all the stuff please, also what is "ITBs"
thanks for your time
ismael
thanks for your time
ismael
10-02-2003, 01:41 PM
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Re: (95 civic)
Hope this helps...
*wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
*wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
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10-02-2003, 02:00 PM
#8
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Re: (KCHybrid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KCHybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont forget to add the ITBs, vtec wires and knock. You also will have several things to extend.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget to add ITB's huh?
Don't forget to add ITB's huh?
10-02-2003, 03:03 PM
#10
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Re: (95 civic)
also he his accord is automatic so he wants to know what should he do with his transmission should get the prelude tanny and convert it to stick or get automatic tranny
10-02-2003, 03:55 PM
#11
Re: (poison)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't forget to add ITB's huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya... u know ITB's if we lived in a perfect world, everyone would have these. but.. we dont, soo we dont.
anyway.. here is what ITB's are:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMOTORPACMAN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know i know, there not for an h22. but u get the point.
Don't forget to add ITB's huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>ya... u know ITB's if we lived in a perfect world, everyone would have these. but.. we dont, soo we dont.
anyway.. here is what ITB's are:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMOTORPACMAN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i know i know, there not for an h22. but u get the point.
on me
10-03-2003, 09:26 AM
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Re: (95 civic)
itb's - individual throttle bodies - usually a race only application and has nothing to do with your swap.
iab - intake air bypass. also the reason you cannot use the jdm harness is because it was designed for a rhd car. the plugs would be on the wrong side of the engine bay. the easiest way to make everything work is to make a seperate harness for all the extras you need to add. if you are a patient person you can take all of the plugs and wires you need that are not on the accord harness off the jdm harness and run them into the firewall to the ecu. this way it will look factory. this takes alot of time to strip down the jdm harness but it looks very clean in the end. i recently just did an accord/h22 swap using only factory wires and it came out great.
hope that helps
iab - intake air bypass. also the reason you cannot use the jdm harness is because it was designed for a rhd car. the plugs would be on the wrong side of the engine bay. the easiest way to make everything work is to make a seperate harness for all the extras you need to add. if you are a patient person you can take all of the plugs and wires you need that are not on the accord harness off the jdm harness and run them into the firewall to the ecu. this way it will look factory. this takes alot of time to strip down the jdm harness but it looks very clean in the end. i recently just did an accord/h22 swap using only factory wires and it came out great.
hope that helps
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