civicguy81

no not yet.....a mech bud is comin over to give me a hand on that tomorrow I hope

4Door Life

4Door Life

okay, here is an update...
the radiator is in, new header is in, rewired my dizzy, had to use my alt from the Y8 so the wires would plug in, removed the intake, in the process of getting a complete Si intake assy, i made a steel braided line for the clutch master to the slave...
when i get this thing running i need to have the exhaust redone... the header is 2 1/2 or 3" in diamater and my stocker cat is i think less than 2"... its going to be very loud for awhile... not cool...
i took some new pics, so check them out...


rewired dizzy, used the wireing from the Y8 dizzy... thank's civicguy81<U></U> for the tip on this...


what a f-ing mess... it's comming along tho...


steel braided line i made for the slave...


finnaly got the motor mounts taken care of, another $70 at desert honda... im just glad this part is done...


brand new $60 header from ebay...


got the radiator in...


give me some input, this IS<U></U> my first swap and im a lil lost with certain things... mostly wireing...
thank's, Brian

civicguy81

got a pic of your conversion harness???....I got it to start briefly.....it was the ECU conversion harness the only area where the wire harness connects to the conversion harness is missing a bunch of wires....its plugged into other wires but nothing for the small plug...when I tried on my stock ECU it got fuel and spark! so I gotta look for the proper pinouts for the harness...

Xscort

i've been researching around and i've seen answers such as if you already have the complete wiring harness and ecu you should just swap everything in and over. Since you have the whole teg, then swap the wiring harness and ecu over. I could be wrong, but i've seen that on a couple of sites. i plan on doing the swap hopefully by august! good luck and let me know if you swap the whole harness and ecu.

4Door Life

hey, ill take some pics of my con/ harness and post them in few min...

4Door Life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xscort &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've been researching around and i've seen answers such as if you already have the complete wiring harness and ecu you should just swap everything in and over. Since you have the whole teg, then swap the wiring harness and ecu over. I could be wrong, but i've seen that on a couple of sites. i plan on doing the swap hopefully by august! good luck and let me know if you swap the whole harness and ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so far ive been using the stocker wire harnes, ive had to re use the wireing from my dizzy as well as my old alt, part number for thr belt you will to operate your alt is #351K4 this is a duralast part number... you will also have to make a monut for the top of the alt, i take some pics of what i did to give an idea...
as far as useing the wireing out of the tegy, i tried to remove it but the harness goes thorugh out the car, i just cut all the plugs and left enough wire for soldering i i need to use them later...
im also going with a 99-00 civic Si intake assy because i hear all the Y8 wireing will plug right in... ill letyou know if this is true or not... i hope it is... Brian


Modified by 4Door Life at 2:22 AM 6/5/2006

4Door Life

almost forgot, i had to lenghten the wires for the speed sensor, if you have a trany with a cable speedo cable, you can use the electronic speed sensor from a 99 D series 5-speed trany, im pretty any sure 96-00 D series 5-speed tranys will work but im using one from a 99 DX 5-speed and i know for sure it will work... going to take pics mow so they sholud be up in the next hour or so... thank's every one, Brian

4Door Life

here are the pics of my harness you asked for as well some of the wireing so far... i also took a couple of the alt bracket im working on...







alt bracket in the process of being made


speed sensor wire extentions


my rigged up clutch resovoir holder works so well i may not go get the factory one...


this shows the different size between the header and the cat...


okay, so here the current standing's:
still need to finish up wireing
need to get the new intake in the mail then hook it up cant wait
need axcels, civicguy81 tells me i can use the ones from the teggy, i wish i could get the spindels off but i cant with out doing some serious ****... so im stuck buying a pair...
i think that covers it...
oh yeah, i found out something today i thought was weird... the trany uses 10-30 motor oil... whoa, thats pretty weird to me... LOL, Brian

MoonScryer

No it doesn't use 10w30. Someone put that in there to thicken it up - odler mechanics believe in it for Honda's. Put in 1/2 qt 10w30, rest Honda MTF. If it grinds after that, you will have problems somewhere down the road.

4Door Life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MoonScryer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No it doesn't use 10w30. Someone put that in there to thicken it up - odler mechanics believe in it for Honda's. Put in 1/2 qt 10w30, rest Honda MTF. If it grinds after that, you will have problems somewhere down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry to tell you guy, according to autozone it is what the factory calls for, 10w30 or 10w40... im going to check myself today when the dealership is open just to be sure...

i can tell you that when i drained the fluid it was definatly motor oil...

look it up yourself if you want...
92' LS integra...


=================================================
========= just found this,it has some great info =========
=================================================
Gear Oil: The Myth One of the most commonly brought up questions from our customers is what gear oil to use in their freshly built Honda Transmission. Our reply to this question has always been: DON'T!
"He must be crazy", you are probably thinking, but there is a simple explanation for this answer:
After a comprehensive analysis, we can conclude that 90% of drivers out there use the completely wrong fluid. The lubrication system in the Honda transmission was designed to use engine oil, and this has not been changed for any of their transmissions. What this means is that, in order for the gears, shafts, bearings, hubs/sliders to be lubricated as intended, a low viscosity transmission fluid must be used, regardless of whether it is synchronous engagement or dog engagement.
Basically, you MUST use the correct transmission fluid in a Honda Transmission and should not use a performance gear oil as it is too thick and does more damage than good. Performance Gear Oils also lack the additives necessary for the smooth running of the synchronous engagement system, as well as a lot of them containining chemicals which disintegrate the brass synchro rings. This is not common knowledge because customers are led to believe marketing and/or technical advice related to your typically large hypoid transmissions, NOT your specialist Honda Transmission.
For most cases where the vehicle is an unmodified Street Car, the OEM Honda MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid) is more than adequate. The problem arises when you start putting either higher power or higher rpm shifting through the transmission. Not only must you still keep within the tolerances of the oem lubrication system, you must also protect the transmission from shock loads. Using Performance Gear Oil is the Number 2 Reason (after incorrect installation) that is directly responsible for most transmission failures (i.e the Cause), subsequently leading to a part failure (i.e the Symptom).
Unfortunately, most consumers tend to follow the advice of your so-called "Performance Specialist" who are only concerned about the symptoms, rather than the cause, and usually end up recommending big-brand (and often expensive) performance gear oils. This is a 100% NO GO on a Honda Transmission. Although GL4 & GL5 Rated Gear Oils contain shock protection additives, they are also too thick for the oem Honda lubrication system. The engagement system (synchronous vs dog) is irrelevant in this case. Lubrication is the key word here.
A basic analogy would be: Oil is your transmissions blood supply and needs to flow smoothly. Clog it up with cholesterol (i.e thick gear oil), and it will have a heart attack. Not enough Iron (i.e shock additives), and it will get anaemic/weak.
So what do we recommend you to lubricate your transmission with? Below is a guide that we highly recommend following:
Level 1) Stock Power. Street Use
Requirements - Low Viscosity Transmission Fluid
Choices - Honda MTF, Torco MTF. Other transmission fluids are available
Level 2) Low to Moderate Power. Street and/or Race Use
Requirements - Low Viscosity Transmission Fluid, Limited Shock/Wear Protection & Stability, Meet GL4 Requirements
Choices - Torco MTF. Other transmission fluids are available
Level 3) High Power and/or High RPM. Street and/or Race Use
Requirements - Low Viscosity Transmission Fluid, Advanced Shock/Wear Protection & Stability, Meet GL5/GL6 Requirements
Choices - Torco RTF. This is currently the ONLY GL6 Rated Transmission Fluid on the market Specifically Designed for the Performance Honda Transmission

1sloej6

just buy syncromesh for the tranny...as for the swap, the axles from the teg will work as long as you you use the same mid shaft...im doing the same swap in my 96 coupe...i also have a crashed integra im takin parts from...good work

civicguy81

I found the culprit for y my car isnt starting....its the conversion harness the guy I bought it off of gave me the wrong one so hes gonna switch it up for me, cauze I tried my stock ECU and it started with a brief instant, and my cable conversion kit is in so I will be on the road by the end of the week :D

1sloej6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicguy81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found the culprit for y my car isnt starting....its the conversion harness the guy I bought it off of gave me the wrong one so hes gonna switch it up for me, cauze I tried my stock ECU and it started with a brief instant, and my cable conversion kit is in so I will be on the road by the end of the week :D </TD></TR></TABLE>

good work.... keep us posted on how its doin

4Door Life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1sloej8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just buy syncromesh for the tranny...as for the swap, the axles from the teg will work as long as you you use the same mid shaft...im doing the same swap in my 96 coupe...i also have a crashed integra im takin parts from...good work </TD></TR></TABLE>

you may have saved me $300.00, i just inserted the spindel side of the axle in threw the out side of the spindel... IT IS THE SAME SIZE AND THE SPILNES ARE THE SAME TOO.... hell yeah... ive been working 12-14 hour days so i havent been able to do a whole lot pluss im waitng for parts... ill give an up date hopefully tomorrow night...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicguy81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found the culprit for y my car isnt starting....its the conversion harness the guy I bought it off of gave me the wrong one so hes gonna switch it up for me, cauze I tried my stock ECU and it started with a brief instant, and my cable conversion kit is in so I will be on the road by the end of the week :D </TD></TR></TABLE>

from the pics i posted, do you think i have the right harness... you got me woundering now...LOL
also, i'll throw this out there...
i have a stock P2P ECU for a 96-00 5-speed, should i or better yet, can i toss this in for smog purposes... or can they use the tail pipe... i know with OBD2 they just plug in the computer...
if you know the answer please let me know... if your not sure please dont respond, you will just confuse the situation...
thank you again, Brian

civicguy81

ya your harness is the right one for a OBD2a, thats the one I needed cauze u have wires going into the smallest of the 3 plugs....unlike mine where I dont have the smallest plug wired up

4Door Life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicguy81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya your harness is the right one for a OBD2a, thats the one I needed cauze u have wires going into the smallest of the 3 plugs....unlike mine where I dont have the smallest plug wired up</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats cool, im glad to hear you have the right one comming, by the way, the integy
axcels are in and fit perfect with my civic spindels...

1sloej6

hey i got aquestion.... did u have to use the cable from the integra trans with your kit?

4Door Life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1sloej8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i got aquestion.... did u have to use the cable from the integra trans with your kit? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no i used a cable to hydrolic conversion kit i bought from HASport... there is a couple of pic's of it in this thread... also for the speed sensor, since the one in the integra was cable driven i changed it over to electronic as well... that part was easy, i also have a pic as well as a detaild post on this to... thank you, Brian

4Door Life

BUMP, STILL WAITING FOR PARTS!!!<U></U>

civicguy81

im gettin mine tomorrow :D and I will get pics of it in place and everythin for ya :D

4Door Life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicguy81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im gettin mine tomorrow :D and I will get pics of it in place and everythin for ya :D</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool man, cant wait to your ride and set up...

i hope my intake shows up soon, i told the guy how important it was and to ship it with usps priority and that i would pay the extra charge to have it in a day or two...

i think it all i need... wont know for sure till i get it...

4Door Life

bump...
I JUST FOUND OUT MY INTAKE WONT BE HERE AT LEAST TILL NEXT F**KING WEEK, HE' HASN'T EVEN SENT IT OUT YET AND WONT TILL MONDAY!!! WTF...

I SPECIFICALY ASKED HIM TO SEND IT OUT USPS 2/3 DAY PRIORITY, IF HE HAD NO PLAN'S TO DO THIS, I SHOULD HAVE INFORMED...

I EXPLAINED HOW IMPORTANT It WAS TO GET IT THIS WEEK AND NOW I HAVE TO KEEP THE RENTEL FOR ANOTHER WEEK AT $190 A WEEK...

I MADE PAYMENT ON 6/4/06 AND HE'S NOT SENDING IT OUT TILL 6/11/06...?

I HOPE HE HAS A GOOD EXPLANATION FOR THIS BECAUSE I CANT THINK OF ONE...

WHEN I MAIL OUT ITEMS I SELL, PEOPLE GET THEM WITH IN A FEW DAY'S... JESUS, I EVEN PAID HIS PAYPAL FEE'S BECAUSE I JUST NEED THIS AND I NEED IT YESTERDAY...

SORRY FOR THE RANT BUT DAMNIT, THIS JUST SUCK'S ***...

4Door Life

OKAY, NOW THAT THAT IS OUT OF MY SYSTEM...

i have found out some very usefull information on wireing...
i found out that all the wireing needed to make the key come out of the ignition as well as to make your car think it's in park, how to hook up your cruise control to were it will turn off when the clutch is pushed in, as well as how to make it start when the clutch is pressed...

you can do all of this from inside the car were the auto shifter was, when you remove all the auto stuff, ie, shifter and linkage... you prolly noticed that big *** grey plug that went to the shifter mech, well all you need is a few wires right there and you are good to go...
i'll do another post in the morning with pic's and a better description...
it is some good **** to know...


Modified by 4Door Life at 2:00 PM 6/10/2006

4Door Life

bump for another update...
i cant sleep as usall so i'm posting the pic's now...

in this pic you can see the four wires needed, the two big wires can either be wired together like i did, or you can run these up to your switch on the top of the clutch, these are the wires that will allow you to start your car...


in this pick you can see the two smaller wires, one is green with a white strip the other is black... when you wire these together the car thinks it's in park so you can remove the key... very important... you can also see the pink wire, if you run this wire up to the top of the clutch along with the black wire to the other switch this will enable your cruise control to disengage when the clutch is pressed... ill show a better pick of the top of the clutch with the switche's so you will know witch one does what...


the two wires that are twisted together are green with a black strip and green with a yellow strip, these two wires are for your reverse lights, they need to be run to the connector in the motor bay to the original reverse light conector... i'm not hooking mine up because there is a rumor that when you use a 5-speed ECU they will work automaticaly, im going to test this theory, if it doesnt work, ill be hooking them up...LOL


just a couple of interior pics after i was done... i'm very happy with my build so far...
BTW YOU DO NOT NEED A BIG *** HOLE IN YOUR FLOOR TO DO A 5-SPEED SWAP
i belive ive proven this with my build...



so as you can see my skills at photoshop really suck but you should get the point...


again give me your thoughts sugestions or props or storys of your builds...
i have well over 600 views on this thread and only a handfull of comment's... im doing the best i can to be informative as well documenting with pics... thank's, BRian

on a side note, i noticed alot of people who dont know how to post pic's...
this is what i use and it works very well... http://www.imageshack.us/