weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

I am sure this has been answered before, but I have a '97 Accord with an H22a Euro R engine in it. It also <U>HAD</U> the Euro R ecu in it using an OBD2A to OBD2B jumper harness. This ecu would start the car, but it would run horrible (hardly enough power to gt it moving). I decided since I live in NE PA, and we are an emissions-testing free area (for now), that I would use an chipped OBD1 ecu with an H22A basemap and of course the proper jumper harness from OBD2A to OBD1. Now the car runs much better, but the idle stays at 1500 rpms and quickly goes back and forth between 1500 rpms and 1700 rpms. Obviously I am thinking there is an IACV issue seeing that the ecu is looking for a two wire IACV and the euro R's is a 3 wire. What are my options here, and is there a way to wire my three wire plug to be a two wire, because putting a two wire IACV is a PITA on the Euro R manifold from what I have read. If you have seen this before, just post the link and that would be greatly appreciated. If you have knowledge of it yourself, please let me know asap!

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

up!

Ovrbst_T66

If you search on here there is a good thread on this with pics ,i will try to find it for you.

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

I figured there would be, but I tried searching, and I couldn't get anything under the topics I searched for. Thank you for the help in advance!

JayWest

PM user Rosko on here
He makes an adapter to use the correct IACV on the euro-r manifold

KidFrost

bump... i have my reasons

hi c dubya

ESP.net

I am guessing your using a p28 chipped ecu?

Rosko and Collective both sell the adapter plates for your stock Accord 2 wire I believe IACV

If not running EGR you will need to plug the EGR ports at the flange of the Euro R or you will have a bad vacuum leak which causes idle fluctuation...

OBD1 injectors are needed...

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

OK...here are the codes I got:

10 - Intake air temperature sensor

14 - Idle air control valve

22 - V-TEC pressure solenoid

I was pretty sure about the IACV, and I am guessing since the car was a non-vtec special edition, that the previous owner did not wire the vtec right...but the IATS is strange? Anybody done one and had the same issues? Thanks

KidFrost

thats it ?/
i figured there would be a **** load of codes..
thats good... you have wired vtec before and the iavc shouldnt be that hard ... so really just one.. i have been looking around sorry i cant help


bump for you tho..

97LXF20B

did you do your own wiring on the swap? do you know what wiring harness changes were made?

i would recommend fixing all the other stuff before worrying about vtec.

is your IAT plugged in?

do you currently have the 3-wire iacv plugged in and running? if so - the third wire is just a ground... you should be able to splice the other two wires into the 2-wire iacv plug from a usdm accord or prelude harness and use Rosko's adapter kit to run the accord/prelude 2-wire iacv.

also:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBD1 injectors are needed... </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

The car actually runs and drives right now, it just idles very strange, and stutters and such. I appreciate the help on the IACV. I am planning to order the adapter and IACV this weekend. In terms of the injectors, I do not understand how this would make a difference? Can you please explain this to me? As long as you use the normal injectors with the resistor box like all accords and preludes use, switching between OBD1 and OBD2 should not make a difference. could you show me some more information on that if possible? Thanks!

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

Bump!

97LXF20B

I don't know exactly... I know my obd2 accord has no resistor box - I think that might be obd1 and obd0 only... but not sure. the clips are also different.

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

Ok...I am down to this:

IACV CEL...and the adapter is on order from ROSKO RACING. I just need to find a 2 wire H22 or H23 IACV. I will post a want to buy thread, but if anyone that views this has one in the NorthEast (so I don't have to wait 5 days for it) please hit me up.

VTEC and IAT issue solved:

I did not know that many JDM engines only have one wire going into the vtec mechanism, and therefore no vtec pressure switch. Therefore the USDM ecu was looking for the pressure switch and it wasn't there, which of coursethrew a CEL. I jumped A4 and D6 near the ecu to solve this issue. Here is the link: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1693528

I can't exactly explain the IAT issue, except for when I did the wiring change from the 3 wire IACV to the 2 wire IACV it must have somehow eliminated the CEL for IAT as well. Does this make sense to anyone?

Anyway...I hope to get the adapter from Rosko Racing by the middle of this week and have the car finished so I can sell it to KidFrost before Christmas! Thank you to anyone who has provided information so far.

97LXF20B

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weavertime1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I can't exactly explain the IAT issue, except for when I did the wiring change from the 3 wire IACV to the 2 wire IACV it must have somehow eliminated the CEL for IAT as well. Does this make sense to anyone?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

not sure what mods were done to your wiring harness, but some of the sensors do share voltage sources and/or grounds on my harness... I do not think the IAT and IACV share wiring, but who knows? if they do share wiring on your harness then you may have bypassed some short in the process of doing your splicing.

best of luck!

ESP.net

I am still curious which ECU are you using?

Far as I know if you arent using the EGR you will have a vacuum leak unless you plug the 4 EGR ports on the manifold at the flange...

KidFrost

he is running a chipped p28

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KidFrost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he is running a chipped p28</TD></TR></TABLE>

P72 jack *** ...and the egr is hooked up, but I do not know if the ecu is even reading off of the EGR plug? It has an H22A basemap, thats all I really know.

KidFrost

really i thought you said p28.... my bad DAWG

dnyce20

i have the same f20b using single cam vtec 97 accord ex harness having problems with dist, knock sensor and iac valve single cam harness 2 wire f20b harnes 3 wires,dist 8 wires single cam harnes 6 wires, wat to do please help d