ISUBIEXI

I never posted this but I put some DNA Motoring Struts on the car with the Skunk 2 springs. I have not really driven the car since I added them. I was driving down some horrible streets and yea.. it was a little bouncy, or maybe it is just stiff. Its definitely a lot smother than it was, the shocks that were on the car were some ebay special no names ones I think and they were blown. We will see how long they last.

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Put on a Stock LS, well JDM LS throttle body with new thermal Gasket. I accidentally dropped the throttle cable and bridged the starter positive with the engine ground.. That didn't bode well for the throttle cable so I had to swap that out. I wanted to move the throttle cable bracket from the throttle body to the intake manifold, unfortunately I didn't have a good bracket to use with it so I ended up spending several hours making something work.

The car is still struggling to run smoothly. I went ahead and compression checked the engine and it came out 180, 180, 200, 180. If I remember correctly that's pretty much what it always has been. I pulled the valve cover and checked the head, nothing looked broken, no metal flake and none of the valves had a lash over 0.008. I may be able to dial them in a little more but honestly, why, they are within a reasonable spec.

I'm hoping that maybe its just the header, its pretty smashed and I can hear/feel a massive exhaust leak. I have never really liked the header, the 4-1 design is too bulky. I may just try to get the stock one back on.

I am really hoping that maybe air it getting into the exhaust and messing with the O2 sensor.

At this point... I'm hoping that its just the header, I just don't know what else it could be at this point.

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I went ahead and ordered an adjustable test pipe and some new downpipe to cat bolts/springs. Those bolts and springs have always made a horrible noise and I think at one point the muffler shop may have welded them to the header. I ordered the test pipe since the stock B-Series header I have does not line up with the exhaust, this way I can get it installed without going to the shop. The new bolts should be longer, the Walker ones I have on the car now were a struggle to get installed and I don't want to get stuck due to some small part.

I will be removing the glass pack the muffler shop thought the car needed. We still have the aftermarket exhaust resonator and the vibrant resonator along with the twin loop muffler so I don't think it will change the sound. The one nice thing is that I will not have another O2 bung so we can hook up the wide band if we want.

I found the stock header and downpipe as well so that should be interesting. I really hope it clear up the noises.
I also had a header of unknown origin laying around the garage, I got it with my Accord many years ago and it was not for the accord. It matches up perfectly with a d-series head and for whatever reason the b-series downpipe. haha. It had the O2 bung on the stock location. I don't know if I will ever use it but at least I know what it is now.

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With the P28 and b20 bin installed the car idles without bouncing or stalling. Still sounds like crap, no smoke no loss in power. I still need to drive the car but mechanically it seems fine. The engine vibrates and the it sounds crappy. Still just waiting on parts. Plugs are spotless.

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I was wrong about the loss in power. With the B20 bin file I am using the car is much slower. Low rpm is fine and the torque is there but after that it just doesn't scream like it did before. I spent some time comparing different tunes and honestly I don't know what to think at the moment. The stock p75 ecu has really done well with this car, my only complaint was the idle could be a bit rough. Looking at b20 and p75 tunes and even though they are labeled as stock they are all quite different. I'm not really sure what one to try. I think what I want is a B20 tune based off a p75 map. I have a good tuned one but its in uberdata and not crome so I may need to cut and paste the fuel/ignition tables into a p75 map. Or maybe I will just throw back in the p75 and be done with it. lol

Just waiting on parts still to get the exhaust sealed up

ISUBIEXI

I did get the stock header back on. I didn't end up needing the new test pipe, everything ended up lining up super well. That fancy gasket that I had on the megan 4-1 header pretty much disintegrated when I pulled it off. It was cool and it sealed well but I'm guessing those things have a short lifespan. I put the stock header back on with a normal metal gasket and no exhaust leaks. The car sounds good now as far as exhaust and such but I still hear something funny in the engine which seems to correspond with the rough idle. Its some what of a rattle that seems like its coming from the 3-4 area or maybe from the flywheel area. Its really hard to tell. The fluctuation is very small, you cant see any difference in the tach. My wife drove the car to work and said that its perfect. Honestly.. I don't know, I kind of feel like its a time bomb. haha. I can pick up a new B20 for $300.

I checked the engine and it has a p75 head and no knock sensor. So I think its the low compression one. I'm honestly not convinced about the whole knock sensor thing, does the knock sensor port actually open up to oil? I feel like that its possible that the knock sensor could just be removed since many people would just disable it in the tune and not bother wiring it up. Either way, I'm pretty sure its a low compression engine and I wanted to pick up a spare but my wife told to just wait until she had issues. lol

I'm going to put the p75 ecu back on it and see how she does. I did throw my old prelude O2 sensor In since it has the correct connector and I didn't have to run an adapter harness. I have been trying to simplify things as much as possible as I have been troubleshooting, trying to make things as stock as possible.

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My wife has been driving the car non-stop with no issues, the stock header really quieted thing down but it still sounds good, moves the sound from the thin 4-1 header to the cast manifold and all of the sound is in the rear now, as it should be. lol.

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Car finally broke but nothing major. My wife was driving in the rain and managed to shred her PS and ALT belts. Most likely one took out the other. Got it towed home today and started working on it. Took me a good hour to remove all of the old belt that was wrapped around the alt and crank pulley. I attempted to test fit a alt belt and found that I couldn't squeeze one between the alt and firewall. Well crap... so I removed the bolts on the alt. Next I wanted to fit it around the crank pulley and... surprise there is no room between the crank pulley and AC bracket. That's a problem I really don't want to remove the AC Bracket.

I'm looking for a LS Crank pulley and ill try that. Should be smaller.

Other than that... car is still running really good other than at idle. I'm still running the P13 with B20 tune, I have not wanted to touch this car since its been working fine and my wife has not complained. I may try blocking off the IACV and seeing if the idle is smooth without it. I still need Integra rear brake lines before I can do the disk conversion. I want to test the P75 again and see if can run with that ECU again. It was stalling out with that ECU.

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Another one of the shortcuts I took when putting this together is now biting me in the butt. I cant find a belt to fit the alternator. I have no adjustment since I ended up drilling a hole in the mount so I could use the D-Series OBD2 Alternator. Now I know, next time swap everything to LS. Keep it as simple as possible.

ISUBIEXI

Got the car sorted out. I went ahead and purchased a 99 Integra Alternator. Was a struggle to get the old one out and new one in. I ended up removing the throttle body and IACV and just barely was able to squeeze it through that way.
New alternator fit like a dream. Went the extra mile and used a bolt with a tab on the back do it wont spin and one of those long OEM nuts. I used a CRV Alternator Belt 333K4 or 4pk0845 which was basically the biggest belt that would work with the adjustment. Just note that I am using the CRV pulley. I would think even a 4PK0820 would work but I'm not guaranteeing anything. The PS belt is an Integra LS stock size, 4PK0920 which fit pretty much in the middle of the adjustment.

When I removed the old Alt, that was from the D16 that came with the car, I found that the pulley nut was missing and the pulley was almost off. That's why I was struggling with it. I'm guessing the only reason it didn't come off is because it was up against the frame rail.

Swapped the master Cylinder and Slave. I now have the Blox S2k AP1 Non Competition one installed and the pedal is lighter than it has ever been. The car was almost un-driveable with the comp one.

Since I still had some light I decided to take a look at the idle issues, I am still not sure what the problem is. I tried the P75 and it idles like crap and every once in a while the idle shifts super low and either struggles or stalls. There is a strange noise coming from the engine when it idles rough, I still think something is jacked, maybe a bent valve or something? Not sure I'm thinking I should have a leakdown test done. Compression test is good.

I tested out a P75 tune on the P13 ECU and it ran extremely poorly.

I attempted to make a blockoff plate for the IACV and when I used a wrong IACV as a template I just said F-It and plugged in a different IACV I had laying around. I found that the Car was idling higher with this IACV. I think the IACV I was using is crap. I was able to dial in the Idle to around 1000(I know its high, just trying to keep things driveable as we troubleshoot. It was very smooth in comparison to how it was. I wanted to try the P75 again and now it idles decently. Its not as consistent as the P13. But to be fair the P13 is chipped and everything is disabled so it has less inputs to make corrections.

Ohh.. I also removed the Vacuum line on the Fuel Pressure regulator. I was going to look into ordering a new regulator and see how things run.

ISUBIEXI

I did some reading looking for the correct IACV and I saw some notes that said the Integra IACV's "don't use stepper motors. It's a pulse width modulated plunger." The IACV's I am using now could be civic or prelude or accord, honestly I don't know what it came out of at this point. lol. I was told that the 3 wire IACV's use pulse. Maybe there was some confusion there.

I see many many posts stating that pretty much all of the 2 wire IACVs were swappable. There are a ton of different part numbers. Honestly the car was running well for years and I had used a few different IACVs I had laying around during troubleshooting of issues.

I may pick up a new one but they can be pricey. Actually 119 at autozone for a Duralast. Ill just bite the bullet and replace it.

ISUBIEXI

Still cant fix the miss at idle. I just don't get it. It runs perfectly smooth over 1500.
I have tried.
3 Different ECU's
New Distributor
New IACV
New Throttle Body and Gasket
New MAP
New TPS
New Injectors
New Plugs
Cleaned up the wiring on the OBDII A/B adapter
Removed Header and put on stock Manifold
Timing perfect
Swapped in the Stock Fuel rail.
Checked Valve Lash, everything was in spec
I want to pull the fuel rail again and add another spacer, I installed the stock rail initially with no spacer and the injectors bottomed out in the rail. I added a fender washer as a spacer but its not as thick as the spacers I have seen on other fuel rails. I doubt that would be an issue since the car runs smoothly at higher rpm but honestly I'm not sure what else to do. It would have been much cheaper just to pick up another b20 for $350 and swap it in. I'm sure I have dropped at least $600-$700 in parts trying to fix this issue. Its been at least 4-5 months with no change better or worse.

Using a Stock p75. if I leave the vacuum on the fuel regulator it will idle around 900 then suddenly stutter drop and stall. With the vacuum unplugged it idles at 1000 and drops to about 500-700 but does not stall. This is not IACV surging, its a non consistent issue. Its worse when the car is warmed up.
Using a chipped p28(B20 rom) it ran smoother but there was definitely still a miss/inconsistency at idle. You can see the exhaust/engine rattle when its doing it.
I hear a strange noise around the distributor/transmission. The noise occurs when the idle drops, kind of a rattling noise, the car still stalls with the clutch in. I am trying to determine if the sound occurs when the clutch is pushed in, it may be 2 different issues. I need to drain the Transmission and look for metal.

Any Ideas?
Note, car runs great over 1500, maybe over 1100. Its just at idle.

ISUBIEXI

Guess I can try creating a different vacuum leak and leaving the fuel regulator plugged in. I swapped the Fuel rail, fuel line from filter, injectors and regulator in an effort to fix this issue. fyi. Fuel filter is about 1 yr old.