ThatOne02Accord

I bought a 95 civic hatchback that was wrecked and it has a JDM B18c engine with the y80 transmission.

I already did the GSR swap into my 93 civic DX that had a 1.5 non vtec.

I'm having a problem getting the wire harness from the 95 out of that car and swapped over into my 93. Seems to be stuck. Anyone have some tips to get the harness out? I heard you don't have to remove the dash.

HondaPartsHero

Are you talking about dash harness or engine harness?

ThatOne02Accord

I'm thinking the engine harness because it has the vtec wiring that I want to swap out.

HondaPartsHero

It disconnects at the shock towers.

ThatOne02Accord

I pulled out the dash and everything and it goes to the fuse box near the driver's kick panel.

ThatOne02Accord

I'm stuck with the ecu wiring...

The 95 civic that had the b18c GSR engine in it has some writing on the ECU that says P13...

How would I run this in my 93 civic DX with non vtec. Will it wire up the same? I'm clueless with this wiring job. I got the engine and everything swapped over, I'm just stuck with the wiring at this point.

ehansford22

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...rmation-73241/

Use your stock dx harness and follow the wiring for obd1. There's an obd1 Ecu pin out and a obd1 vtec write up. Most likely you will not need to mess with pin a20. If the p13 was running the motor before then you should have no problem with it. Just plug it right in and start it up unless you can get your hands on a obd1 p72 gsr Ecu

ThatOne02Accord

Thank you so much for the diagram!

I wish I could have read your post a few minuets ago as I just got done depining and soldering the wiring for the ECU.

All that is left is install the battery tray and hook the battery back up and test drive

Now that you gave me the diagram I will double check all my ECU wiring/pinout and then see how it runs. Thank you once again for the help, I really appreciate it.

I want to thank everyone on the honda-tech forums for all their help and being patient with me. I know I might ask some dumb questions, and or question that might have been asked before but want to express my gratitude.


I will let everyone know how it goes! Fingers crossed :D

ThatOne02Accord

The engine will fire for 1-2 seconds but won't run and the check engine light is always on.

Are there any voltage checks to the ecu that I should look at? I metered A20 it don't seem to have the switched 12v with the new wire or old wire. Can I run 12v to A20 from the battery or a 12v source?

I unplugged the oxygen sensor but still did not start. Any thing that would cause it to not run?

ehansford22

What Ecu are you running. Double check timing. Are you getting fuel and possibly check for spark. Also jump the service plug and see what code/codes you are getting

ThatOne02Accord

I checked for spark and spark is good. I checked my timing before removing the engine and it's perfect the car ran great.

I believe the fuel injectors are not injecting due to the ecu wiring.


I jumped the service plug but the check engine light stays solid.



The only issue I believe could be causing it is the A20 or A17 which deals with the IAB/EVAP Purge solenoid. I never ran a 12v switched source to ones of these pins. I'm not sure how to do that.

I have a pink wire in the A17 pin which I know is the IAB, but for A20 I don't have a 12v source running to that wire/pin. Do I splice in a 12v source? Would this cause the fuel injectors to not inject?

Car is acting like when fuse #24 blew on me, which is the PGM-FI. I will check this fuse to see if that is the problem, but I think it is the switch 12v source, I'm not sure where to hook it up at...

ehansford22

https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/evap-purge-solenoid-does-b18c-use-940895/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...874&styleid=14

These two posts should help out with a20 and a17

ThatOne02Accord

Thank you for the links.

Would the a20 or a17 cause the problems I'm having? I' read the post over and over, still I'm having the same issue.

The check engine light stays solid and won't throw me any codes.


Does the IAB wire need the 12v source switched?

ThatOne02Accord

Here's the deal.

I got the car to idle, it runs like crap!

On a cold start it take 10 start attempts. When it does idle and the engine is warm it will fire up easy.


When I get it to idle, if you try to go WOT it will bog and stutter bad. If you barely push the gas petal it will rev up smoother.

I still have a solid check engine light.


I want to say it has to do with the oxygen sensor wiring, or the coil in the distributor but I'm not sure. Any suggestions?

Also went for a test drive and really had no acceleration when pushing the petal to the floor. Only when you bearly push the gas will it accelerate.

speedjunkie_g35

Solid cel tends to mean the ecu is fried.

ThatOne02Accord

I'm going to swap the 02 sensor for the one that is in the d15b7 engine it's a 4 wire.

I'll pick up an obd1 p72 ecu since i'm using a p13 for the GSR. I might also looking into a distributor.

ehansford22

How you makin out with everything?

ThatOne02Accord

I checked out the junkyard and all the civic's and integra's are picked clean.

All the ecu's and speedo clusters are taken.


I haven't put my other oxygen sensor on yet, it started sleeting on me while I was looking at the junkyard.


This is what I found about the oxygen sensor wiring to the ecu. I know the 4 wires are, White, Green, Black, and Black.

O2 Sensor Input - WHT to D14 (needs to be a shielded wire)
Heater Control - BLK to A6
Sensor Ground - GRN to D22
Sensor Voltage - BLK to A25 or B1 (both are 12-volt sources, so either works fine.)

^^ I'm not sure if that is the correct way to pin it to the ecu, but if so I want to recheck to see if I have it going to the correct pins.

I'll let you know in a few days when it warms up. I don't have a garage so I work outside on most my vehicles. I do appreciate you helping out. There is 1 more junkyard I need to hit up that has 2 integras.

ehansford22

Yes junk yards are usually the worst place to find those kind of things. You should try craigslist, b20vtec or just get yourself a chipped p28 gsr mapped Ecu. But let me correct you a little with a25 and b1. A25 is a power source and b1 is a power ground. I went through the same thing with my obd2 civic (which i no longer have cause of nonsense like that) lol but I could never figure those wires out. I would hate to say try both but it might be your best bet. And just heat shrink the wrong wire you snipped back up. But yes I have the same life as you bro. Working outside is horrible but if that's all we got screw it lol

ThatOne02Accord

Ah I'll try to see if I have the rest of the wires hooked up correctly then try swapping a25 and b1 to see which one works.

Thank you, I'm still parting out that wrecked 95 I have before I call someone to haul it off. I don't see myself using the autometer wideband or autometer oil pressure gauges. It came with the wrecked car and has the pillar pod mounts.

ehansford22

The wideband would actually be a smart thing to use even though it's mainly a stock gsr?? Will help you notice if your leaning out or too rich. I just picked one up myself but its cause I have a mildly built poor mans type r. If I didn't purchase the aem wideband my motor would of been blown for sure

ThatOne02Accord

I double checked the wiring to the 02 sensor, I had a wire swapped in the wrong place. I have it all hooked up right.

The car still is doing the same thing. I also swapped out the oxygen sensor with a known good one. Still same result.

There is 1 wire I can't figure out where it goes. It's black with a yellow strip and it on the 4th shock tower plug. I call it the 4th plug because it has the vtec wires..ect. I'm not sure where that gets pinned into the ECU at.


Black wire with yellow stripe from engine side of the plug


Black wire with yellow stripe going into firewall to ecu side of plug

ehansford22

Going from harness side in is black/yellow and from firewall side to Ecu is black and yellow? So one continuous black and yellow wire all the wire down to Ecu? I looked at the obd1 diagram and black and yellow is either power source or power ground like I mentioned above with the o2 wiring

ehansford22

How is your check engine light. When you start the car still the same problem? Have you rechecked the blinks and same codes? I would deff try and source out an Ecu. Even if you can get your hands on a obd1 p28. They aren't hard to find at all

ThatOne02Accord

I traced the wire down to the IAB. I assume it's the ground wire to the IAB.

It's 12:00 midnight and the giving is running open headers atm, so I will ground that black/yellow stripe wire and see if the check engine light goes away and if the car runs better.

I'll let you know how it goes. I'll look into a p28 ecu. There is a p72 obd1 manual tranny ecu on ebay but it's up to like $150